A2OC - Brilliant resource!
- Thread starter Ed449
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Ed449
Member
Looks like it will be Wednesday. I haven't seen it in the flesh yet, but have been offered a good deal which is subject to my inspection of the car. It will be a bit of a trek - car is in Northampton, but hopefully the dealer has been honest. 
Currently using the forum to compile a list of things to look for/check.
If anyone has any particular pointers (its the 1.4 petrol), I will add them to the list.
Currently using the forum to compile a list of things to look for/check.
If anyone has any particular pointers (its the 1.4 petrol), I will add them to the list.
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kencayton
Member
A bit of a trek, but at least its reasonably straight forward to get there. I was lucky and found mine in Enfield, so only half hour away from me. Plus I work around the area too, so if anything does go wrong (fingers crossed it doesn't), I can pop in and have words. Good luck for Wednesday Ed, post some pictures if you like?
alexwharton
Member
Coil packs seem to be a common fault, also check the front suspension the springs arnt great, anti roll bars, if it has a open sky roof check that it opens and close and has been lube'd
bretti_kivi
Member
cambelt change on a petrol?
Rollers, yes, but i'd not heard any recommendations about this before. I'll probably get mine done soon, but where's the information from?
The petrol should sound like it's doing work; pickup should be clean from tickover and the red line is around 5200rpm. It won't zing all the way round, especially if it's wearing 17s, but it should be clean and pull strongly from 2500 and only fade off at 4800 or so.
If it's earlier, the airfilter is probably due for a change (which is a good idea anyway).
AUAs can have a software upgrade which is well worth it, it improves the way it hangs on the gas and makes it more drivable.
Drive over a small bump or two with some lock on the steering @ 15-20mph; there should be no "clongs" and if there are, you need the ARB or connecting rods looked at / replaced. It's no biggie, but still.
1.4s have no discs at the rear, so as long as the handbrake is pulling equally on both sides, no issue.
For the springs, I don't think you'll really notice it's about to break, but if it does it will make nice noises when you turn the wheel whilst standing still.
Other quick stuff to check:
- the left button on the instrument cluster - check when it thinks the next service is due
- kerbed alloys
- climate: put the fan on 3 or 4 bars and then try diverting the air around. If it has a problem pushing it (you should hear it, but do this while the engine's not running), there is a flap issue (many, many cars have this) and you should think about getting them to replace the central distribution unit as it's something you can't do yourself and trying to fix it is a real ****. Also try the demist button and then Auto. There should be no perceivable draughts once it's reached temperature and no real temp changes (it's a good system).
- drop the back seats, one at a time (move the front ones forward). pull the handle behind the seat, let it drop. Now pull from the handle at the rear side of the base. When you've checked that the leg to hold it in place is fine and fits (!), drop the seat again. If it doesn't latch, lean on it with some weight and then you can raise the seat back itself back to the upright position.
- check the state of the b-pillar covering on the driver's side. if it's tatty, ask them to replace it. it's not expensive but does get some abuse from nice people who just let the seat belt go.
- put the lights on and check the glovebox light works.
- use the remote to open the boot (from several feet away) and try to shut it again after checking the state of the plastic in front of the door opening. try also using the key to open and shut the windows: press and hold lock or unlock. If they don't work, reset the window (drop it to the bottom, hold for 2 sec, then raise completely and hold for 2sec) and repeat.
- check under the sills on the outside; there are many who do not understand the correct jacking points and therefore try to raise the car using the plastic sills. these do not take kindly to the treatment.
- take the bonnet off and check the rear corners for scratch damage. You can check the last brake fluid change and the state of the coolant at the same time. Fit the bonnet at the back first, then seat it and push backwards, then turn the locking knobs.
- headlamp levelling appears to be an issue for some
- the state of the inside trim (a-pillar) on the drivers side may be nasty, as it will be the place everyone rests their foot against. it's cheap to replace.
- if there's a cruise control: set it. it should work above 25mph or so. try accelerating and decelerating.
- if they allow it or are prepared to do it, a VAG-COM readout will tell you more than you need to know.
that should give you something to think about
Bret
Rollers, yes, but i'd not heard any recommendations about this before. I'll probably get mine done soon, but where's the information from?
The petrol should sound like it's doing work; pickup should be clean from tickover and the red line is around 5200rpm. It won't zing all the way round, especially if it's wearing 17s, but it should be clean and pull strongly from 2500 and only fade off at 4800 or so.
If it's earlier, the airfilter is probably due for a change (which is a good idea anyway).
AUAs can have a software upgrade which is well worth it, it improves the way it hangs on the gas and makes it more drivable.
Drive over a small bump or two with some lock on the steering @ 15-20mph; there should be no "clongs" and if there are, you need the ARB or connecting rods looked at / replaced. It's no biggie, but still.
1.4s have no discs at the rear, so as long as the handbrake is pulling equally on both sides, no issue.
For the springs, I don't think you'll really notice it's about to break, but if it does it will make nice noises when you turn the wheel whilst standing still.
Other quick stuff to check:
- the left button on the instrument cluster - check when it thinks the next service is due
- kerbed alloys
- climate: put the fan on 3 or 4 bars and then try diverting the air around. If it has a problem pushing it (you should hear it, but do this while the engine's not running), there is a flap issue (many, many cars have this) and you should think about getting them to replace the central distribution unit as it's something you can't do yourself and trying to fix it is a real ****. Also try the demist button and then Auto. There should be no perceivable draughts once it's reached temperature and no real temp changes (it's a good system).
- drop the back seats, one at a time (move the front ones forward). pull the handle behind the seat, let it drop. Now pull from the handle at the rear side of the base. When you've checked that the leg to hold it in place is fine and fits (!), drop the seat again. If it doesn't latch, lean on it with some weight and then you can raise the seat back itself back to the upright position.
- check the state of the b-pillar covering on the driver's side. if it's tatty, ask them to replace it. it's not expensive but does get some abuse from nice people who just let the seat belt go.
- put the lights on and check the glovebox light works.
- use the remote to open the boot (from several feet away) and try to shut it again after checking the state of the plastic in front of the door opening. try also using the key to open and shut the windows: press and hold lock or unlock. If they don't work, reset the window (drop it to the bottom, hold for 2 sec, then raise completely and hold for 2sec) and repeat.
- check under the sills on the outside; there are many who do not understand the correct jacking points and therefore try to raise the car using the plastic sills. these do not take kindly to the treatment.
- take the bonnet off and check the rear corners for scratch damage. You can check the last brake fluid change and the state of the coolant at the same time. Fit the bonnet at the back first, then seat it and push backwards, then turn the locking knobs.
- headlamp levelling appears to be an issue for some
- the state of the inside trim (a-pillar) on the drivers side may be nasty, as it will be the place everyone rests their foot against. it's cheap to replace.
- if there's a cruise control: set it. it should work above 25mph or so. try accelerating and decelerating.
- if they allow it or are prepared to do it, a VAG-COM readout will tell you more than you need to know.
that should give you something to think about
Bret
bretti_kivi
Member
I have a 40k / 6 year A2. Petrol. My cambelt isn't changed yet, there's only a "sighting" in the dealer service recommendation. Waterpump at the same time makes big sense, tensioners are the thing that screw up frequently. There are many issues at around 100k kms on the German forums, so getting it sorted at 60k miles seems reasonable and decent insurance, as you say.
I'll personally probably try and get mine done before the summer if we're driving to France - that's a 4000mile round trip
I'll personally probably try and get mine done before the summer if we're driving to France - that's a 4000mile round trip
Ed449
Member
Is this easy to do? I would like to check in there, but I'm a little uncertain about removing the bonnet without any previous experience.
Smick
Member
Simple. Open the service flap. There are two push screws. Undo them and they will move towards you. Let the whole bonnet come towards you.
My thoughts on it would be that if you cannot see the damage while the bonnet is on; is there any point in making waves if it has been scratched underneath?
My thoughts on it would be that if you cannot see the damage while the bonnet is on; is there any point in making waves if it has been scratched underneath?
bretti_kivi
Member
depends. the point was, it's easy to scratch the corners and if you look like you know your way around the car and can point out minor issues, you're in a better bargaining position, even if they're not that serious 
Don't worry about the underneath, that's very difficult to scratch but the top corners are very easy. If someone has managed it, they were taking the lid off or the garage was sloppy. in both cases: "hmmmmm....."
The bonnet mechanism: the two knobs under the service flap both turn a half turn or so, they lock the bonnet in place. twist them, they only go one way. They will pop out (spring loaded).
Pull the complete assembly towards you half an inch or so - just towards, not up or down. you should feel it come free of the "lock" position.
Now, with one hand at the back and the other at the front, pull it some more parallel with the top of the bumper (and the ground!) and as you feel it loosen, you can lift the windscreen side. put it on the floor carefully, you'll see why it's so easy to scratch the corners
replacment: hook the rear parts almost in place (half-inch too far forward) and then let the rest down onto its runners. Push into resting place and then lock the bolts again. shut the flap. If the flap won't stay shut or won't open, another black mark. You may need to push it in the middle where the catch is to get it to stay shut.
Bret
Don't worry about the underneath, that's very difficult to scratch but the top corners are very easy. If someone has managed it, they were taking the lid off or the garage was sloppy. in both cases: "hmmmmm....."
The bonnet mechanism: the two knobs under the service flap both turn a half turn or so, they lock the bonnet in place. twist them, they only go one way. They will pop out (spring loaded).
Pull the complete assembly towards you half an inch or so - just towards, not up or down. you should feel it come free of the "lock" position.
Now, with one hand at the back and the other at the front, pull it some more parallel with the top of the bumper (and the ground!) and as you feel it loosen, you can lift the windscreen side. put it on the floor carefully, you'll see why it's so easy to scratch the corners
replacment: hook the rear parts almost in place (half-inch too far forward) and then let the rest down onto its runners. Push into resting place and then lock the bolts again. shut the flap. If the flap won't stay shut or won't open, another black mark. You may need to push it in the middle where the catch is to get it to stay shut.
Bret
Alan_uk
A2OC Donor
My TDi 75 bhp has just reached 40k and is 4 years old in June. A month ago the dealer where I bought the A2 sent a standard Audi card inviting me to ring them to see if mine is due for a cambelt change. I suppose they are covering themselves in case it goes.
Not to sure whether to use my usual independent Audi dealer or a VW dealer. How many other Audi use the A2 engine? If as I suspect none, then it might be better to go to a VW dealer. Any comments?
Ed449
Member
Alan,
Given your location, not sure if you already use the Audi/VW Centre, but when I phoned them this week to ask for a price on a belt change for a 1.4 petrol, they quoted £337.22 inc VAT. I would have guessed the TDI would be in that sort of region £-wise too.
That was for a belt change using the full kit and included a new OEM water pump.
Given your location, not sure if you already use the Audi/VW Centre, but when I phoned them this week to ask for a price on a belt change for a 1.4 petrol, they quoted £337.22 inc VAT. I would have guessed the TDI would be in that sort of region £-wise too.
That was for a belt change using the full kit and included a new OEM water pump.
Alan_uk
A2OC Donor
Many thanks, Ed. Yes I have used them (Melksham near Chippenham). They always said to me that they used Audi parts. I recall from other posts that even the Audi water pump is not that expensive, and especially given the total cost. Mind you, £337 seems a bit steep. They might discount it if I combine it with a 2 year service. Worth asking....
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