Today I.....

if the track arms are cast then just replace the boots assuming the joints are still OK, if pressed steel arms then replace with cast arms, or are you talking about the track rod end on the steering rack, if so these are screw on screw off and should be replaced if the boots are split
Top pivots if creaking should be changed before they break springs, also consider replacing the front struts if they have not been changed before and also the rear shocks when funds have recovered B4's are nice OEM std
hand brake cable - have the pair replaced Tower bearing, again have this done when funds are available, they don't tend to pack in, just go notchy

Paul

Having been swotting on the forum tonight I’m going to ask them some more questions about their quote for the steering rack ball joints and track arms. Every day‘s a school day here:). Yes they recommended replacing both cables. About the selector tower, I reckon I could put up with it for a while, but my wife hasn’t driven it yet and I think she might not be so tolerant, and to be fair getting it into reverse can be very difficult if it‘s not in the mood. Mind you they haven’t ruled out the problem being in the gearbox itself.
 
Try packing the selector tower bearing with grease, it should make things a lot smoother for you and the need to change the selector tower less urgent.

As for the track rod ends as Depronman says, these are screw off screw on items so shouldn’t be costing the Earth.
 
I found gear changes on mine very challenging for the first couple of years of ownership. Couldn’t always get first. Double clutching for reverse. Giving the selector tower a spray with some white lithium grease (I know, I know) very quickly identified friction in this component as the cause. Very messy, yes, but effective.

I’d been panicking about needing a new gearbox but the change was very clear with some lube (badly aligned bonnet drain catch was the cause).

Maybe worth asking them to try a bit of lube first as Steve says.


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Today I fitted my new (to me) three spoke TT steering wheel and a replacement indicator stalk (thank you A2Steve).

Now I can indicate again and my steering wheel matches my TT alloys!

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if the track arms are cast then just replace the boots assuming the joints are still OK, if pressed steel arms then replace with cast arms, or are you talking about the track rod end on the steering rack, if so these are screw on screw off and should be replaced if the boots are split
Top pivots if creaking should be changed before they break springs, also consider replacing the front struts if they have not been changed before and also the rear shocks when funds have recovered B4's are nice OEM std
hand brake cable - have the pair replaced Tower bearing, again have this done when funds are available, they don't tend to pack in, just go notchy

Paul

So I queried their recommendation to replace the whole lot. They said the track rod ends tend to seize onto the arms and the inner joints wear, though the arms themselves were in ok condition. They are proposing replacement arms made by Febi. They’ve given me the option of freeing off the ends and retain the arms but warned me it may well not work and would lead to greater labour costs. I’m undecided but think I may just go with their advice.
 
So I queried their recommendation to replace the whole lot. They said the track rod ends tend to seize onto the arms and the inner joints wear, though the arms themselves were in ok condition. They are proposing replacement arms made by Febi. They’ve given me the option of freeing off the ends and retain the arms but warned me it may well not work and would lead to greater labour costs. I’m undecided but think I may just go with their advice.
Hi Malcyb,
Febi are an o/e equipment supplier for a lot of the car & if I remember correctly we’re around
£14.00 each.
Hth
Keith
 
If you need some interim help I have a sports spring available for free. It came off a tdi sport with 80,000 miles....
 

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If you need some interim help I have a sports spring available for free. It came off a tdi sport with 80,000 miles....

many thanks for the offer, but I don’t think they were proposing replacing any springs, though I realise @depronman said I should get the suspension top mountings sorted quickly before I need them. I’m just trying to decide what the highest priorities are and I’ll get them fixed ASAP, I’m getting especially paranoid about the clonks when manoeuvring at low speed, which I guess is the suspension top mountings.
 
Today I spent several hours, cleaning and de-bobbling the half leather/Alcantara seats that I collected from A2steve. Yesterday (400mile round trip).
In truth they were really quite good as you will have seen from Steve’s photo’s (now in the Sold section)
There are several online videos on how to de bobble (de-pil) Alcantara, from using a Lint removal shaver, disposable razors, electric trimmer and sandpaper. All sound quite dramatic and risky. My first option was to try a very fine foam backed sanding bloc. This proved to be very effective in removing some quite heavily bobbled areas but does seem to leave the pile a lot longer than the fresh un worn areas. Perhaps I will be brave enough to try an electric razor to reduce the pile!
I also swapped over the front seat squabs so that the worn bolsters are inboard. Not a difficult job once you have found how to access the side bolts.
Sourced online the plugs for the Lumber power connection. I know I can take power from several places but would like to create a loom that takes it from the OEM location. I believe this is at the near side ‘A’ post but which connector, colour and pin?
Would Timmus be kind enough to tell us!

Strangely the rear seats have presented me with a problem, alignment with the catches seems to be out, causing the seats to block each other from folding and the upper catches not latching.
Has anyone had experience with having to adjust latches when swapping seats From one car to another?
 
Seat problems usually start from the way the base fits to the floor. Out of alignment there can cause all types of issues at the upper end. Double check them first before making any changes to catches.
 
I suspect you are correct. The light was failing when I stopped and I think one corner is sitting higher than it should.
Tomorrow will tell.
 
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Hi Geoff

It will be the alignment on the loops at the bottom, even a fraction out and it will throw the seat alignment out by a great deal at the top mount. I had the same issue with the passenger side rear cloth ones I put in it, but I persevered and refitted it 4 times and the last one worked a charm. Straight up and into place.
 
Thanks Steve. I realised after Audifan’s reply that it was probably the old, ‘rear seat out of sync problem’ and not seating properly.
If you remember when I picked them up they were not locked folded, this should have given me the clue. Never had a problem with the loop alignment it has always either been in or not.
 
Today I removed my faulty Webasto and put a replacement in...

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Very much still a work in progress but at least it’s back in the car and the coolant plumbing is back together. Waiting on some decent 11mm fuel hose clips and getting the electrical connection to seat and then, hopefully, a successful test awaits...

Pleaseohpleaseohpleaseohplease...


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Today I removed my faulty Webasto and put a replacement in...
I am still wanting to take my Webasto out to see if it can be fixed.
I could not remove one of the bolts holding the mounting bracket behind the black turbo? pipe. How did you get at it?
You should do a how to remove and reinstall Webasto thread...
 
Let me know what the clattering noise is, I’m having a similar issue with mine!
I found the aforementioned ARB drop link didn't cure the noises from the front so more investigations to follow.

On other hand, having had a few more miles in Lasi today, have discovered I really, really like A2's. These are my first miles in one having fancied them since new. I should have started earlier.

Anyway, making up for lost time as today also bought a TDi ying to my petrol's yang. Collection Sunday all being well, might do an actual thread on that one (it's a sort of project) as smeared the Lasi story just about all over the shop :rolleyes:
 
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