Today I.....

Hi bud,

Do you mean the one behind the MAF sensor housing and the black air intake black looking down from the top?

The MAF housing can be easily removed by removing the two spring clips and the plug and wiggling out the middle piece and the two bits of air intake ducting can then be pulled out the way and cable tied to the side. I’ll take a photo later on if the rain stops.

Alex.


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If you remove the wheel arch liner you can remove the three little 10mm bolts that hold the Webasto onto the mounting plate.

Then come in from the top and remove the other two bolts that hold it to the front mounting plate and unbolt that plate from the car chassis and the Webasto is freee!

Also undo the exhaust from underneath and the plumbing and electrical connections from above but you get my point.

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Removing the coolant pipes was a bit tricky. I found it easier to remove the MAF housing and cable tie the air intake piping out of the way and detach the coolant hoses from where they attach to the metal pipes to go around the side and back of the engine. Then you can get good access to the clips on the Webasto once it’s out.

Whew! Glad that’s done!


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Not today, but earlier this week. Winter tyres off and back on Michelin Crossclimates (195/55x15) on pepperpots. And managed to get the centrecaps painted black.

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A question for you (might be a stupid question and I may be wiser after this), don’t winter tyres and Michelin cross climates do the same job? Do they not both work in snow/wet or am I missing something.

Over and above that do you then change again to summer tyres?

Apologies again if I’m being a bit thick.
 
A question for you (might be a stupid question and I may be wiser after this), don’t winter tyres and Michelin cross climates do the same job? Do they not both work in snow/wet or am I missing something.

Over and above that do you then change again to summer tyres?

Apologies again if I’m being a bit thick.

Was going to ask the same question :)

They aren't full on winters but are to be honest perfect for most winters now in this country. I've got them on both my cars right now and I'm still on winter footing.
 
@Rusty911 Have a look at this thread. Do not know if your rattle is coming from the same area but worth a look.


Sorry, I missed this! Thank you. That's amazing: can't wait to get under there and try it. There is a reference to pushing down hard right at the front of the dash stopping the noise and that's exactly how it is.

Curing this would make a big difference to the ambience of the car. Perhaps I could then work through the suspension noises and the exhaust (or gearbox) rattling on under side before thinking about a quieter engine. AUA btw, just in case someone has one ...
 
Not saying that is your issue @Rusty911 but may point you in the correct direction or completely rule something out. You have checked for coins etc being posted into the heater ducts - a kids favourite.
 
Not saying that is your issue @Rusty911 but may point you in the correct direction or completely rule something out. You have checked for coins etc being posted into the heater ducts - a kids favourite.

No but it's a free / easy check and I can't have enough of those! Sounds too structural to be coins but I wouldn't want to rule anything out ...
 
A question for you (might be a stupid question and I may be wiser after this), don’t winter tyres and Michelin cross climates do the same job? Do they not both work in snow/wet or am I missing something.

Over and above that do you then change again to summer tyres?

Apologies again if I’m being a bit thick.
I think that the answer to your question is 'not quite'. Michelin Crossclimates are so-called all season tyres which as I understand it means that they are in effect summer tyres but with some winter capability. Probably don't need to change to full summer but I've got them as well on some nice 16" wheels.
 
I think that the answer to your question is 'not quite'. Michelin Crossclimates are so-called all season tyres which as I understand it means that they are in effect summer tyres but with some winter capability. Probably don't need to change to full summer but I've got them as well on some nice 16" wheels.

Braking and grip in colder weather much better than summer tyres - as I say they now seem to be the best compromise for a UK winter. UK winters not cold enough for full on winter tyres IMO.
 
Today I....... broke my own rule and ate in my car.

Social distancing and all.

First job when I get home is clean it even thought it’s clean. Can’t have that hash brown smell in the car, wouldn’t be right!
 
Today I finished installing my new (to me) brakes and repaired the wire splice on the pad wear indicator that my former garage undertook.

I had a new connector to splice in myself but they were all happy when giving me my car back four hours late that they had ‘fixed that wee brake issue you had’.

Cutting the wire and twisting the ends together and putting a single twist of pvc tape on is not a fix! The wire was black inside and corroded all the way up to the ABS sensor y-piece! Aargh! Idiots!


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I had an issue with the handbrake not holding this week and saw that there was no adjustment left behind the handbrake lever so prioritised the rear brakes this week.
So today I... done the rear brakes.
I got drums, shoes and springs separately. Cylinders looked OK, no leakage. But I did not realise I did not get the push rods or wedge adjusters with the kit so was not careful enough to keep an eye on the old parts while dismantling. During re-assembly on the first side I realised that I had lost the wedge adjuster and could not find anywhere local that could supply :mad:. So I carried on with the other side keeping an eye on the wedge adjuster as I dismantled it to make sure it was safe. I then went back to the other side and stepped back to look and think a little what I was going to do, only to find the lost wedge adjuster sitting on the gravel. Phew.:D
Next time I will buy a pre-assembled shoes kit that has all the parts (I did last time but not this time).
Anyway once assembled I adjusted the handbrake and it seemed to take a lot of thread on the adjuster before it bit a little at 4 clicks. At this adjustment I could only just hold it on a steep hill with the lever a long way up. So I now suspect a stretched cable or a bent bracket or something. :mad:
That will be one for the garage to look at as I don't have the facilities or the inclination to get under to do it myself.

The front brakes still need doing and I will have to get to that next week. Why do these things all come at once...?

The more that I think about keeping Tarkus much longer the more that I think I should have a second car and treat this one as a hobby.
 
I had an issue with the handbrake not holding this week and saw that there was no adjustment left behind the handbrake lever so prioritised the rear brakes this week.
So today I... done the rear brakes.
I got drums, shoes and springs separately. Cylinders looked OK, no leakage. But I did not realise I did not get the push rods or wedge adjusters with the kit so was not careful enough to keep an eye on the old parts while dismantling. During re-assembly on the first side I realised that I had lost the wedge adjuster and could not find anywhere local that could supply :mad:. So I carried on with the other side keeping an eye on the wedge adjuster as I dismantled it to make sure it was safe. I then went back to the other side and stepped back to look and think a little what I was going to do, only to find the lost wedge adjuster sitting on the gravel. Phew.:D
Next time I will buy a pre-assembled shoes kit that has all the parts (I did last time but not this time).
Anyway once assembled I adjusted the handbrake and it seemed to take a lot of thread on the adjuster before it bit a little at 4 clicks. At this adjustment I could only just hold it on a steep hill with the lever a long way up. So I now suspect a stretched cable or a bent bracket or something. :mad:
That will be one for the garage to look at as I don't have the facilities or the inclination to get under to do it myself.

The front brakes still need doing and I will have to get to that next week. Why do these things all come at once...?

The more that I think about keeping Tarkus much longer the more that I think I should have a second car and treat this one as a hobby.
This is the way I always do the reas brakes on any drum brake assy

FULLY back of the cable
manually adjust the shoes such that they are just binding on the drum, do this by manually adjusting the tappered wedge moving it downwards then refit the drum. If the drum as a lip remove this with a file or angle grinder. everytime you put the drum back on pump the FOOT BRAKE a few times to centralise the shoes. It may take several attempts until the shoes are just binding
repeat for the other side
now adjust the cable until on the first click the drums are binding, release the handbrake and the drums should be nearly free.
Run the car for a few miles to bed in the new shoes, it may be necessary to repeat the manual adjustment of the wedges.
Once I have done this my A2 holds on a steep hill on the 3rd click and wil lock the rear wheels at 20mph if I pul hard on the hand brake

My MOT tester is alyways impressed with the handbrake
The rear shoes wear very little so this tends to be a once every 2 or 3 years job

Best of luck
Paul
 
This is the way I always do the reas brakes on any drum brake assy
Almost the way that I did it but I set it to 4 clicks instead of 1 and I did not have to manually adjust the wedges downwards as with the new shoes and drums were tight at the top of the wedges travel and the handbrake adjustment was as far as it could be slackened off while removing and fitting the shoes.
Thanks for the tip. I will try adjusting them again tomorrow but am still concerned that I have to adjust the handbrake adjustment so far before it would bite even at four clicks with new shoes and drums.
 
....refreshed the cloudy headlights on my newly acquired 200k TDI.


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Prior to work
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After being wet sanded with 800, 1000, 1500 and 2500 wet and dry
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and then after being machine polished with Meguirs ultimate compound. I’ve now given them a coat of clear laquer and the are baking in today’s glorious sun. Once hardened for a day or 2 I’ll wet sand them again with 2500 grit and a final machine polish.

Not perfect, but a damn sight better than they were.
 
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