Gearbox/Clutch issue looking for thoughts

U

Un4tural

Member
Hi All,

So i am quite sure i need to get DMF done due to idle rattle, feels this will be accelerated quite a bit by the new issue.

Had a bit of a drive yesterday and there was quite a lot of flooding on the M1 - i suspect lil A2 did not like that... had an episode this morning where i had to do clutch pedal in a couple times as gear level would not go into any of the gears, when trying to put it in felt like clutch was not disengaged - no crunching or anything just blocked - once i got it "unstuck" it was working as normal going into all gears fine until i stopped and parked it - once started again it was stuck again - not sure if it is just water seething in somewhere?

It does have a bit of a clunk sound when putting into gears sometimes now...

will try and fiddle under bonnet when i get home - any tips?

Edit: was behaving perfectly on the 20minute drive home...
 
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Righto - under bonnet things seem alright (though there is some red limescaley residue not sure where that come from).

Driving today it was great for first half and on second half gear changes became very stiff and hard to get shifter into gear and when parked it feels like some torque is going to wheels in 1st - I'm suspecting either clutch hydraulic cylinder (or whichever bit is there?) or clutch itself is on last legs (though dirt/water ingress likely due to crossing the sea which was M1) also clutch had been replaced a bit over a year ago however no mention of DMF on paper work... >_<

Can select/deselect gears with no trouble when parked with engine off though, would guess that side of things is fine at least.
 
Kaz said:
Which model is it you have?
Click to expand...

It is Audi TDI 90 per signature. Pretty sure it is one of the clutch plumbing at this point - clutch pedal felt a bit jittery as well - not smooth motion more like when rubbery bits are not lubricated well enough - after massaging it for a bit it feels better but i don't think clutch gets disengaged fully as it should which is the cause of the hard gear changes.

With my working theory i'll go check master/slave cylinders first for the clutch - Anyone can advise easiest way to get to them? Read that hose connecting them can get worn and get bulged causing issues - potentially that as it seems to struggle to disengage the clutch fully.
 
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Right to update - https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/gearbox-clutch-problem.12468/ describing exact same issue.

@Mustang-owner any chance you remember what the issue was? I've ordered some gearbox oil to top up and if it was not replaced until now i can believe it was due to that, it can get stuck in gear and in neutral unable to get into gear. Pumping clutch seemed to free it but it could just be a coincidence and it seems to do fine when it has warmed up - which would again make sense to me if the oil was aged in the gearbox.

at same will it does feel a lot like a hydraulic issue...and clutch pedal movement has a bit of a roughness to it - it is not nice linear smooth. might give bleeding the clutch hydraulic line a go in case a bubble got in there somehow.

I've went through all the paperwork i got with the car and clutch/DMF had indeed been both replaced so i would not expect these to be dead (replaced at 125k now car just ticket over to 150k).


i am hoping it is not the clutch/gearbox and something hydraulic etc. as bearings etc. should have been replaced with clutch/dmf kit - unless some of the seals have gone and dirt/water made it inside :(

Edit: do not have the 17mm hex bit for drain plug. Doh!
 
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Flush / bleed the clutch slave cylinder first. Then look into toping up or replacing the gearbox oil. Make sure you can undo the gearbox FILLER plug before removing the drain. Nothing worse than an empty gearbox and no way of refilling it.
 
audifan said:
Flush / bleed the clutch slave cylinder first. Then look into toping up or replacing the gearbox oil. Make sure you can undo the gearbox FILLER plug before removing the drain. Nothing worse than an empty gearbox and no way of refilling it.
Click to expand...
Top tip that, I did mine last week and the filler was very tight indeed, had to use an 18” tube on the end off the key, I’m glad I did that with the engine mount still in place as the engine moves a lot even with the drain plug and that’s on a different axis. Note you will find lots of different values for how much needs to go back in, don’t worry about those just fill to full on a flat surface (until it comes back out the filler hole). I used a funnel and some hosepipe.
 
Robthebank said:
Top tip that, I did mine last week and the filler was very tight indeed, had to use an 18” tube on the end off the key, I’m glad I did that with the engine mount still in place as the engine moves a lot even with the drain plug and that’s on a different axis. Note you will find lots of different values for how much needs to go back in, don’t worry about those just fill to full on a flat surface (until it comes back out the filler hole). I used a funnel and some hosepipe.
Click to expand...
Filler plug was the bit i didnt have looks like a 17mm hex - waiting for that in post should be here today. not going to bleed gearbox oil yet just fill it as i am 50/50 on oil and hydraulics gears sticking would make sense for it to be oil in gearbox - might be combination of both.

for filling it up it says to just top it up until it is flush with fill plug so will go for that.

I assume i undo the little nut on the bleed valve for it to bleed (slave cylinder) ? will probably redneck something out of straws as i don't have any tubes that fit that nipple.

EDIT:

https://workshop-manuals.com/audi/a...cing_clutch_mechanism/bleeding_clutch_system/ - presumably i am fine to do it the normal way without the "appliance" and just connect hose with a bottle then have a buddy press the clutch pedal in to bleed it?
 
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I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought a high pressure bleeder was required for the clutch?
 
AndyP said:
I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought a high pressure bleeder was required for the clutch?
Click to expand...

I do not see why normal way would not work - however if i am going to break the bloody thing without the magical appliance please do let me know as i'll tackle it right after work today.
 
Regular bleed bottle and hose is fine
System / procedure referred to is a workshop tool which applies pressure to the header tank useful for abs pump swaps or working alone
OTT for most jobs
 
Weetank2 said:
Regular bleed bottle and hose is fine
System / procedure referred to is a workshop tool which applies pressure to the header tank useful for abs pump swaps or working alone
OTT for most jobs
Click to expand...

Sweet thanks! will report back later on hopefully i'll have enough daylight left after halfords for some Dot4 and finding some transparent hose someplace.

Edit: pissed off and scratched up couldnt wrestle the damn plug loose - gonna get 1/2" drive bit for that f*cker plug and if that doesn't do it i guess i'll try a brick wall see how the damn oil plug likes that.

got only too big diameter hose for bleeding brakes too so...

To be continued tomorrow...
 
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audifan said:
When you were in Halfrauds you could have picked up a Vizibleed kit for £6.
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Didn't have them :( was looking for a bleed kit and all they had were weird fetish looking thingabijiggs with a pump on the end.

got bits for torque wrench coming so gonna give it the beans later today if that doesn't set the nut free i don't know what will!
 
Bang the bit into the bolt to make sure fully seated. Although tight, it sometimes works if you try to TIGHTEN the bolt slightly more before trying to release it. Penetrating oil and an impact driver always good unfortunately several areas you will not get an impact driver into. A length of correct sized tubing and a clear container can be used instead of a kit but it is a 2 man job as you can not just open the bleed and pump the pedal, you need someone to ensure the tube is submerged in the container ( first put some brake fluid in it ) to see when the air stops coming out or the fluid runs clear and to keep the reservoir full during the bleed. For a full flush allow 2 liters of Dot 4, remember not to use an old opened bottle as it absorbs moisture out the air, always buy it in the smallest containers you can and once you have bled everything and are happy with the results dispose of the partially used bottle along with the empty ones which I put the old fluid back into responsibly.
 
audifan said:
Bang the bit into the bolt to make sure fully seated. Although tight, it sometimes works if you try to TIGHTEN the bolt slightly more before trying to release it. Penetrating oil and an impact driver always good unfortunately several areas you will not get an impact driver into. A length of correct sized tubing and a clear container can be used instead of a kit but it is a 2 man job as you can not just open the bleed and pump the pedal, you need someone to ensure the tube is submerged in the container ( first put some brake fluid in it ) to see when the air stops coming out or the fluid runs clear and to keep the reservoir full during the bleed. For a full flush allow 2 liters of Dot 4, remember not to use an old opened bottle as it absorbs moisture out the air, always buy it in the smallest containers you can and once you have bled everything and are happy with the results dispose of the partially used bottle along with the empty ones which I put the old fluid back into responsibly.
Click to expand...

Satly spent good half hour trying to make it move both ways and tapping it with a hammer it is proper stuck in the end i let it win this round and left it with some WD40 to soak and will go for round 2 today.

Just gotta pick up some transparent tube from B&Q on way home and i'll be set.
 
The oil plug was no match for the big boy torque wrench and oil level is good (horay audi no maintenance gearbox oil!) however it is disgusting mud/poop brown.

Bled the slave cylinder through with a fair bit of liquid and there was only a teeny weeny bubble in there however actual dot4 did have quite a bit of dirt/residue in it so i guess this was not replaced recently.

Anyways following all that i gave it a drive and once it warmed up it felt normal however cold it feels like it is still sticking, gears don't feel to go in as smoothly either - parked it for the night and will see how she feels tomorrow however will likely leave it to rest until i change the oil in gearbox as it wasn't pretty.

if engine oil change doesn't do it i'll swap slave cylinder i suppose then probably will have to move to doing clutch/DMF though i find it hard to believe it would be kaput in 25k miles - maybe dirt got in there or something, not sure what the odds of that are.
 
it's likely that the Top Hat was not changed when the DMF / Clutch was replaced, The Top Hat is what the release bearing slides on and it does get scored up which then means the release bearing does not slide smoothly on it. Bloody daft as the Top Hat is around £10
It is also the gearbox input shaft oil seal
Other possibility is the cross arm as cracked in the middle were the release bearing clips in, not unknown of in other VAG range of similar age

Unfortunately all need the gearbox removing to inspect / replace - I'm sure that is where this is going
 
As the gearbox oil was so bad you have nothing to loose draining and refilling that first. May improve enough or get you a bit of time before you pull the box off.
 
depronman said:
it's likely that the Top Hat was not changed when the DMF / Clutch was replaced, The Top Hat is what the release bearing slides on and it does get scored up which then means the release bearing does not slide smoothly on it. Bloody daft as the Top Hat is around £10
It is also the gearbox input shaft oil seal
Other possibility is the cross arm as cracked in the middle were the release bearing clips in, not unknown of in other VAG range of similar age

Unfortunately all need the gearbox removing to inspect / replace - I'm sure that is where this is going
Click to expand...

it is feeling that way :( will need to find a good garage as that is a bit beyond what i can do in my parking space.
 
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