Today I.....

I have a third alternative I bought a very shallow socket 10mm internal hex which as a hex external hex on the other end
The ext hex is fitted into a ratchet spanner using a polly bag as a spacer between the hex and the spanner (to made it a tight fit and prevent the socket from dropping out)
This allows access to both bolt using the external hex on the bolts which is much preferred to using the internal and much smaller hex on the bolts
Bear in mind these bolts and generally quite rusty and as such the hex is not as tight as it should be
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I have a third alternative I bought a very shallow socket 10mm internal hex which as a hex external hex on the other end
The ext hex is fitted into a ratchet spanner using a polly bag as a spacer between the hex and the spanner (to made it a tight fit and prevent the socket from dropping out)
This allows access to both bolt using the external hex on the bolts which is much preferred to using the internal and much smaller hex on the bolts
Bear in mind these bolts and generally quite rusty and as such the hex is not as tight as it should be
7afb21598fecb0a08247ea336d7f88c9.jpg

57d22ebb506bafa6e0537da900962046.jpg

a4c0167a4a2991d3302446587b8a2959.jpg

ef1a09496398b3ef14cfaa2338bef8e2.jpg

e5cd6d67cba28630cfb47b09edffe246.jpg



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This is the same method i used worked a treat
 
@Silverpig here are 2 tried and proven ways to remove the tdi thermostat housing. Both use the internal 5mm hex. One is a short fine ratchet handle that comes with a short bit holder, the other ( my version ) is a Britool 1/4x5/16 ratchet ring spanner. In both cases a 5mm bit is used. In the case of the spanner one turn of tape is wrapped around the bit to secure it in the spanner. Part numbers for those interested are for the ratchet Trident T264350 and the spanner Britool RBB2531. Some pictures.
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Thanks, great tip I just need to get a small enough ratchet and a few 5mm hex heads to replace the ones I dropped the last time I did this! I have an offset spanner which is perfectly sized to hold the 5mm hex head but despite various attempts at securing it I still managed to drop 3 of the bloody things. I’m looking for a suitably offset 10mm spanner to do the job instead.
 
Try feeding the temp of the pipes going to and from the main radiator when the gauge is in the 80 deg region. At this temp the stat should be closed and therefore the pipes also cold. If the pipes are warm or hot the thermostat is faulty

Just got round to doing this after a drive that should have been long enough to warm it up properly, the gauge was 70. I actually wasn’t quite sure which pipes you meant, in the 2 photos attached the one I’ve marked in yellow feeding into the right of the radiator as I look down on it was warm (not scalding) whereas the one marked in red was quite cool. So not sure what this means!
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Just got round to doing this after a drive that should have been long enough to warm it up properly, the gauge was 70. I actually wasn’t quite sure which pipes you meant, in the 2 photos attached the one I’ve marked in yellow feeding into the right of the radiator as I look down on it was warm (not scalding) whereas the one marked in red was quite cool. So not sure what this means!
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The pipe circled in red is the boost pipe that carries compressed air from the intercooler to the inlet manifold. It's not of interest right now.

The pipe circled in yellow is one of the two pipes leading to the coolant radiator, and therefore one of the two that you're looking to feel. The other one attaches to the radiator in exactly the same position, but much lower down the radiator, closer to the tarmac.

Cheers,

Tom
 
The pipe circled in red is the boost pipe that carries compressed air from the intercooler to the inlet manifold. It's not of interest right now.

The pipe circled in yellow is one of the two pipes leading to the coolant radiator, and therefore one of the two that you're looking to feel. The other one attaches to the radiator in exactly the same position, but much lower down the radiator, closer to the tarmac.

Cheers,

Tom

D’oh, silly me...... so given that pipe was pretty warm, this suggests the thermostat might not be faulty? Does this open up the possibility as Paul suggested that the sender unit might be the cause of the low temperature gauge reading? I’m guessing that this would then mean the cause of my not-very-good fuel consumption is something altogether different?
 
D’oh, silly me...... so given that pipe was pretty warm, this suggests the thermostat might not be faulty? Does this open up the possibility as Paul suggested that the sender unit might be the cause of the low temperature gauge reading? I’m guessing that this would then mean the cause of my not-very-good fuel consumption is something altogether different?
At 70 degrees, the thermostat should be closed, meaning that no hot water should flow to the radiator, and the pipes should therefore not be getting hot.
If the thermostat has failed, it opens too early, thus causing hot water to flow to the radiator before the engine has reached full temperature (90 degrees C). Therefore, if the pipes are hot when the gauge is reading 70 degrees, we can conclude that either the thermostat is faulty and is therefore opening too early, or that the thermostat is opening at the correct temperature, but that the sensor that feeds the instrument cluster's gauge is faulty.

Cheers,

Tom
 
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Maybe you could let the engine cool down then start it running and feel the pipes to see when they start to warm up. If the pipe to the radiator starts to warm up very quickly then it’s not likely it was holding the water back from the radiator properly - once the water in the loop is over 80C that pipe should go from cold to pretty darn hot over quite short time I would have thought.




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How many miles and the what speed had you driven and was the cabin heater set to hot or cold to get the gauge to reading 70?

If the distances was short ie a few miles only and the cabin heater was on warm to hot and the running was town type driving, then the water temp would likely be about 70 deg C and as such this is suggesting a faulty thermostat
However if the running was say 10 miles at motorway speeds with heater set to cold or cool then the engine would be at 90 if the stat was working correctly and therefore the sender unit is the faulty item

Cheers. Paul


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How many miles and the what speed had you driven and was the cabin heater set to hot or cold to get the gauge to reading 70?

If the distances was short ie a few miles only and the cabin heater was on warm to hot and the running was town type driving, then the water temp would likely be about 70 deg C and as such this is suggesting a faulty thermostat
However if the running was say 10 miles at motorway speeds with heater set to cold or cool then the engine would be at 90 if the stat was working correctly and therefore the sender unit is the faulty item

Cheers. Paul


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I think it might be quite hard to do such a scientific test given I’ve got climate control and not a manual heater so pretty hard to get it to push out hot air on demand. Generally I have it on 19 - 20 and regardless of driving round town or on motorway temperature ranges between 70 and 80. Given the sender is so cheap might it be best to replace this first and see what happens? Is this really easy to do even for a novice? I did a quick search and didn’t find any information as to where it is and how to do it.
 
Ok to change the temp sender is quiet easy. It’s a green ended sensor with 4 pins located at the top of the engine under the tandem pump
It is retained by a plastic C shaped clip
Basically pull out the C clip and the sender can then be pulled out
You will loose some coolant until the new sender is in place. There is a O ring which the sensor dit’s on this should also be changed and sometimes comes with the sensor
I would strongly recommend you also buy a couple of spare C clips and attach a cotton thread to the C clip so when it bings off (as it will) you can pull the cotton thread and get the C clip back. It WILL save a lot of swearing

Paul


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Ok to change the temp sender is quiet easy. It’s a green ended sensor with 4 pins located at the top of the engine under the tandem pump
It is retained by a plastic C shaped clip
Basically pull out the C clip and the sender can then be pulled out
You will loose some coolant until the new sender is in place. There is a O ring which the sensor dit’s on this should also be changed and sometimes comes with the sensor
I would strongly recommend you also buy a couple of spare C clips and attach a cotton thread to the C clip so when it bings off (as it will) you can pull the cotton thread and get the C clip back. It WILL save a lot of swearing

Paul


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Ok doesn’t sound too bad, but which is the right part? Found this from a search on eBay but no idea if it’s any good....

 
I would generally suggest oem but in these times that may not be possible
It’s not a lot of money so worth a shot

Paul


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Ok doesn’t sound too bad, but which is the right part? Found this from a search on eBay but no idea if it’s any good....


That is exactly the problem..... which part to buy that will actually work??

I personally wouldn't buy the one you've linked as it is unbranded, just too cheap and the seller doesn't have 100% feedback which is an absolute must on ebay for me.

On the other hand I couldn't tell you which one to buy as recently someone on here bought a Meyle one (which is generally considered a quality brand) and said it didn't work and then fitted a Circolli which did work but other's have had the complete opposite experience!

I've no problem doing any job once but there is nothing more frustrating than having to do it again because the part you bought wasn't up to standard and didn't work!

I blame China!

Oh no don't get me started again ?

Good luck
 
Today I declared the cleaning and leather restoration completed on the seats bought from A2Steve. they were pretty good but I felt they could be improved. Rear seats needed nothing more than a clean.
Front seats deserved some special attention:
1) swapped front Seat bases left to right to even out the bolster ware
2) de bobbled the alcantara
3) thoroughly cleaned the leather and degrease in prep for leather restore
4) clean the alcantara with correct cleaning product.
5) apply leather restoration die/sealer. Up to 4 coats applied

Pleased with the results, though colour match not perfect to original.

The pics below are as close to the same shots that Steve used in his original ad, now in the Sold section of the market place for comparison https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/leather-and-alcantara-sports-seats-4-seater.42542/
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I was probably one of the last pick ups from Steve before the lock down so thanks Steve and I hope all is well with your family. The renovation has kept me occupied for a few minutes each day.
I have yet to get used to having these light grey seats in the car and it gives me a smile when I see them even though there is little or no driving at this time!
 
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They really do look fantastic Geoff. Yes we are all keeping well. I'm still in work unfortunately but taking as many precautions as possible. Stay safe
 
Today my order for Brembo coated discs and matching pads arrived ready for the Summer refresh I'm giving the A2. The discs and pads came in at £60 a set thanks to eBay's brief POP15 offer, which gives 15% off from a long list of sellers, including Euro Car Parts and Larkspeed. The offer is open until tomorrow at 23:59.

Larkspeed are excellent for supplying shock absorbers and this is a good opportunity to pay a little less than you would otherwise if you're thinking of that sort of upgrade.
 
Today my order for Brembo coated discs and matching pads arrived ready for the Summer refresh I'm giving the A2. The discs and pads came in at £60 a set thanks to eBay's brief POP15 offer, which gives 15% off from a long list of sellers, including Euro Car Parts and Larkspeed. The offer is open until tomorrow at 23:59.

Larkspeed are excellent for supplying shock absorbers and this is a good opportunity to pay a little less than you would otherwise if you're thinking of that sort of upgrade.
Always good with tips. Couldnt help but checked larkspeeds pricing for B4 rear shock absorbers, as I put an order yesterday for that in another site. I think i did well in bying them for appr 40gbp, while larkspeeds price is 76gbp minus 15%= 65gbp.
 
...had another commute to work in the MG and driving it has reminded me of what I like about A2's so much and how disappointing it is that my FSI will be off the road so long :-

- the build quality
- the feeling of safety
- the ease of driving
- the community spirit
- the knowledge that if I left it outside for a year I wouldn't come back to a pile of rust :)
 
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