Today I.....

That is exactly the problem..... which part to buy that will actually work??

I personally wouldn't buy the one you've linked as it is unbranded, just too cheap and the seller doesn't have 100% feedback which is an absolute must on ebay for me.

On the other hand I couldn't tell you which one to buy as recently someone on here bought a Meyle one (which is generally considered a quality brand) and said it didn't work and then fitted a Circolli which did work but other's have had the complete opposite experience!

I've no problem doing any job once but there is nothing more frustrating than having to do it again because the part you bought wasn't up to standard and didn't work!

I blame China!

Oh no don't get me started again ?

Good luck

Fair enough, TBH I probably wouldn’t have gone for that one, just picked it at random to make sure I was looking at the right part. There seem to be a few on amazon with decent reviews so might go for one of them. When you say the Meyle didn’t work, what exactly do you mean? I don’t want to embark on doing this then find I’ve made things worse rather than better, I’m dependent on keeping the car on the road.
 
Fair enough, TBH I probably wouldn’t have gone for that one, just picked it at random to make sure I was looking at the right part. There seem to be a few on amazon with decent reviews so might go for one of them. When you say the Meyle didn’t work, what exactly do you mean? I don’t want to embark on doing this then find I’ve made things worse rather than better, I’m dependent on keeping the car on the road.

'Meyle' is a brand name and an Original Equipment Manufacturer that generally has a very good reputation for making top quality parts.

I try to fit only 'genuine' parts to all my vehicles that were fit to them as standard in the factory to maintain the original quality but bear in mind that most car parts are supplied to the vehicle manufacturer as it would be impossible for the likes of Audi or BMW etc to make all of their own parts for every vehicle so they have them made for them by other companies and then badged as their own, one of which is Meyle who also make an excellent range of high end, superior quality parts branded Meyle HD (Heavy Duty), which includes drop links for the A2 that are better than the originals and come with a 5 year guarantee.

Regarding it not working, someone posted on here recently that they fit a Meyle sender only for it to not work ie the car didn't get to temperature (90°) and so replaced it with a Circolli branded one which worked fine for them but this is contrary to many people's experiences that have fit Circolli only to replace it with a Meyle one, hence my lack of recommendation and quandary ?
 
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...had another commute to work in the MG and driving it has reminded me of what I like about A2's so much and how disappointing it is that my FSI will be off the road so long :-

- the build quality
- the feeling of safety
- the ease of driving
- the community spirit
- the knowledge that if I left it outside for a year I wouldn't come back to a pile of rust :)
I will stand corrected but I think BMW owned Rover at the time of the MGF production and sales. There was a rumour that BMW put all their efforts and money into the Z3 development and the poor MG came second fiddle. The MGR V8 is now a much more sought after car commanding premium prices with a low production run in the mid 1990,s. The MGF proved to be a sad demise of a much loved British icon.
 
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Today my order for Brembo coated discs and matching pads arrived ready for the Summer refresh I'm giving the A2. The discs and pads came in at £60 a set thanks to eBay's brief POP15 offer, which gives 15% off from a long list of sellers, including Euro Car Parts and Larkspeed. The offer is open until tomorrow at 23:59.

Larkspeed are excellent for supplying shock absorbers and this is a good opportunity to pay a little less than you would otherwise if you're thinking of that sort of upgrade.

Good shout - looks like i could pickup an LUK DMF and clutch from Carparts in motion for just over 300 with the discount code. God knows when it'll be fitted though!
 
Today I declared the cleaning and leather restoration completed on the seats bought from A2Steve. they were pretty good but I felt they could be improved. Rear seats needed nothing more than a clean.
Front seats deserved some special attention:
1) swapped front Seat bases left to right to even out the bolster ware
2) de bobbled the alcantara
3) thoroughly cleaned the leather and degrease in prep for leather restore
4) clean the alcantara with correct cleaning product.
5) apply leather restoration die/sealer. Up to 4 coats applied

Pleased with the results, though colour match not perfect to original.

The pics below are as close to the same shots that Steve used in his original ad, now in the Sold section of the market place for comparison https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/leather-and-alcantara-sports-seats-4-seater.42542/View attachment 62833View attachment 62834
View attachment 62836

I was probably one of the last pick ups from Steve before the lock down so thanks Steve and I hope all is well with your family. The renovation has kept me occupied for a few minutes each day.
I have yet to get used to having these light grey seats in the car and it gives me a smile when I see them even though there is little or no driving at this time!

Hi Geoff,
They look great - I have the same seats for mine in 5 seater config, though my drivers seat Alcantara bum section has worn through in a few places so will need replacing eventually.
If you don't mind me asking - what colour restore/sealer kit did you use?
I've used the scuffmaster kits years ago and had good enough results but I believe the company has changed hands recently.
Thanks,
John
 
...had another commute to work in the MG and driving it has reminded me of what I like about A2's so much and how disappointing it is that my FSI will be off the road so long :-

- the build quality
- the feeling of safety
- the ease of driving
- the community spirit
- the knowledge that if I left it outside for a year I wouldn't come back to a pile of rust :)
I nearly bought one a few years back but couldn't find the right one, then someone suggested Mazda MX5, was I eternally grateful to that person, I loved the MX5 (mk2) had 2 of them, later drove a MG not a patch on MX5 on build quality, fun factor or reliability.
Good luck with it, at the price you paid and the spec it's worth it to stop the itch.
Stay safe.
 
Hi Geoff,
They look great - I have the same seats for mine in 5 seater config, though my drivers seat Alcantara bum section has worn through in a few places so will need replacing eventually.
If you don't mind me asking - what colour restore/sealer kit did you use?
I've used the scuffmaster kits years ago and had good enough results but I believe the company has changed hands recently.
Thanks,
John
John. The leather dye and sealer I used was:
the colour turned out to be too dark (despite supposedly being Audi Platinum) so I got them to send a ‘tint pack’ which they did for no charge. Their light grey is too light but they sent me one of these as well, as they thought it was closer, it was in fact much too light.
I iterated to a close match by mixing the light grey with the supposed platinum grey and am pleased with the result.
 
I nearly bought one a few years back but couldn't find the right one, then someone suggested Mazda MX5, was I eternally grateful to that person, I loved the MX5 (mk2) had 2 of them, later drove a MG not a patch on MX5 on build quality, fun factor or reliability.
Good luck with it, at the price you paid and the spec it's worth it to stop the itch.
Stay safe.

Not a bad car at all and this one is relatively rust free, but the build quality is nowhere near the A2.
 
John. The leather dye and sealer I used was:
the colour turned out to be too dark (despite supposedly being Audi Platinum) so I got them to send a ‘tint pack’ which they did for no charge. Their light grey is too light but they sent me one of these as well, as they thought it was closer, it was in fact much too light.
I iterated to a close match by mixing the light grey with the supposed platinum grey and am pleased with the result.

Excellent thanks Geoff!
John
 
Today I removed the front bumper, wheel arch liners, slam panel complete with rad and intercooler. Removed the gearbox, fitted a new clutch and prepared the JDD gearbox for fitting tomorrow
I spent a few hours yesterday cleaning the JDD before fitting it, trimming the mount flange to suit the A2's mount. Checked the tower bearing (which was perfect), fitted a new pivot bolt, cross arm and bearing and a new top hat
drained the oil and checkit for metallic partical, nothin in it at all and the oil was spotless, suggesting that it may have been changed recently anyway. Removed the drivers side driveshaft flange so all ready for fitment tomorrow

I also sprayed all the mounting bolts with penitrating oil as I have new B4 and and top mounts waiting to be fitted and a much better bumper that I got from A2steve some months ago

More to follow tomorrow

Paul
 
Today I removed the front bumper, wheel arch liners, slam panel complete with rad and intercooler. Removed the gearbox, fitted a new clutch and prepared the JDD gearbox for fitting tomorrow
I spent a few hours yesterday cleaning the JDD before fitting it, trimming the mount flange to suit the A2's mount. Checked the tower bearing (which was perfect), fitted a new pivot bolt, cross arm and bearing and a new top hat
drained the oil and checkit for metallic partical, nothin in it at all and the oil was spotless, suggesting that it may have been changed recently anyway. Removed the drivers side driveshaft flange so all ready for fitment tomorrow

I also sprayed all the mounting bolts with penitrating oil as I have new B4 and and top mounts waiting to be fitted and a much better bumper that I got from A2steve some months ago

More to follow tomorrow

Paul

Paul would you say you found it easier removing front end rather than having to do it underneath... ? I have my blue A2 in garage which needs a clutch but has the more desirable JDD box as appose to EWQ with longer 5th fitted to my red A2.
I was going to swap over the gearbox‘s your way but bailed as there was too many pipes and loss of fluid to think about and not having any spare. Any guidance would help please.
Ross
 
So today I finally installed the handbrake tray. All smooth, with the exception of removing the cigarette charger element :mad: that took a while.
Replaced the original tray’s black velvety bits with matching twist leather off-cuts, for a total beige look.
Also managed not to use double-sided tape using sticky mats instead, so it can be fully reversed without any nasty residues on the central tunnel.

75393252-12EF-479C-9FC4-29BB8DD364F2.jpeg
 
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So today I finally installed the handbrake tray. All smooth, with the exception of removing the cigarette charger element.... that took a while.
Replaced the original tray’s black velvety bits with matching twist leather off-cuts, for a total beige look ☺
Also managed not to use double-sided tape using sticky mats instead, so it can be fully reversed without any residues in the central tunnel.

View attachment 62885
Whoaw, looks really good. ?
 
So today I finally installed the handbrake tray. All smooth, with the exception of removing the cigarette charger element.... that took a while.
Replaced the original tray’s black velvety bits with matching twist leather off-cuts, for a total beige look ☺
Also managed not to use double-sided tape using sticky mats instead, so it can be fully reversed without any residues in the central tunnel.

View attachment 62885
Is there two different styles of handbrake tray, I’m sure my first A2 had just one rectangular tray with a black insert? ....... unless I’m mistaken?

Which every way it looks great and something I think I’ll add to my to do list, I just need a vgc one in platinum.
 
Enjoyed my first trip out in the car for a long while to go and pick a prescription up.
Hope everyone is doing ok. Particularly any other solos who may be starting to wonder what those weird two legged things that you occasionally see in the distance are! I have to admit that I do spend half an hour or so each day just sitting in Mabel as she always makes me feel happy ?
 
Is there two different styles of handbrake tray, I’m sure my first A2 had just one rectangular tray with a black insert? ....... unless I’m mistaken?

Which every way it looks great and something I think I’ll add to my to do list, I just need a vgc one in platinum.
Indeed, there are two different variations available. One is the standard full version, one-tray and the other (mine) which was design to accomodate the navigation control buttons in the smaller hole. I was lucky to find mine new.
 
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well Sunday actually, my A2 got its new JDD gearbox and new LUK Clutch. The original clutch now on 170K miles was like new, there is 0.3mm wear on the spinner plate which I think is absolutly astonishing, at that rate of wear the clutch would do in excess of 600K miles
I had bought the new clutch kit so fitted it, but if I had know it was so little wear I would just of fitted a new release bearing and cross arm pivot bolt and top hat.
As it was it got the full clutch kit, new cross arm, pivot bolt, spring clip, and top hat
Clutch aligned perfectly using my custom made aligning tool, gearbox lifted using a wire rope winch and the drivers side CV shaft flange removed the gearbox literally slipped straight into place, no pushing , shoving, it just dropped straight onto the dowles.
I had already cut off the triangle from the gearbox casing for the gearbox mount and machined up a spacer for the third mounting bolt, also the middle bolt is not threaded on the JDD box, its a clearance hole, so I reduced the inside of the flange by 12mm to allow room to fit a 10mm nut on the original bolt
Once the gearbox was in and bolted up I continued the rebuild, the original A2 gearbox shifter linkage (the part bolted to the top of the tower) was used as the JDD one was unsuitable due to different cable attachments
Here came the first issue, the linkages all worked perfectly until the cables were attached, the the cable end foulded on the gearbox mounting by about 2 to 3mm, not a big problem a little material was removed from the side of the mount. However this was a pig to do with the gearbox and mount all fitted. I could have removed the mount, but chose to chain drill the bit of the mount to be removed and then cleaned up the edge with a course file. 20 mins and that hurdle was over
next fitted the driver side flange, attached the two drive shaft and filled up with oil
The next issue was when fitting the dog bone lower mounting, there is only two of the three mounting bolts available on the JDD box when using the A2 dog bone mount, this I already new and have no issue with the lack of bolt (other VAG cars of much higher power only use 2 bolts on the dog bone mount), the issue I had was the small end of the dog bone mount was fouling on the 'not to be used' gearbox mounting point. This is a lug on the gearbox casting that needs to be removed. This would have been dead easy with the gearbox on the bench, but with the box in the car it was a challenge with a hacksaw blade without saw frame and took some 40 mins to saw off the lug, boy do your arms hurt when sawing lay on your back with you arms up in the air :)
Lug removed the dog bone now fitted and cleared perfectly

I had already bought a set of four B4 shocks, top mounts, bump stops, drop links and ARB bushes and new bolts. Starting with the passenger side and having previously soaked the bolt and captive nuts on the top mounts with penatrating oil, I set about undoing the three bolts, well they all spun the captive nut such that the nut err was no longer captive !!!
head scratching moment, time for lunch and a think
spring compressors on the spring with it still in the car, compressed the spring, 7mm allen key in the strut top, deep ring spanner o nthe nut and nut undone and removed, strut now removed from car complete with spring leaving the top mount in place.
Now attached the top mount with a 4 1/2 " angle grinder cutting disk hitting the three not so captive nuts until they gave in - this damn top mount has been on my A2 for 18 years and was doing its best to avoid the divorce, but it eventually gave in and is not in the scrap pile of bits.
The strut was well past its sell by date with no extension of the strut and a good 2" of free travel before resistance was felt and then not much resistance. The new B4 on the other hand have a fair amount of extension fource and no free travel, resistance being the same and much more than the old struts in both direction
New top mount fitted to new strut, nut torqued down and spring released, copper grease on the three new bolts and strut refitted to the A2, inserted into the hub and new bolt torqued up, ARB bush fitted with new streatch bolts and new drop links fitted - one side done, only took 3 hours and that was the 'easy side'

Now to the drivers side, access is rubbish so unbolted the webasto and moved out a few inches, then undo the bolts holding the brake reservoy, well one bolt came out, then the second once spun the captive nut, third bolt came out OK - bloody A2 is fighting me today
Tried gripping the captive nut with grips, not a chance. its a steel captive nut, light bulb moment, hit it with the mig welder to get it glowing red, grips now have something more to grip on and bolt came out with ease, combination of mainly heat and a little better grip on the captive nut
New captive rivet nut fitted - jobs a goodun
Now I can see the three mounting bolts for the top mount - 2 hours into this side already
I bought a ratchet spanner from lidl, looked made for this job and only £8 - totally usless because the ratchet is too course
got my birthday present out, 1/2" drive air ratchet, fitted a 13mm stubby impact socket (6 flat thick wall socket), popper it onto the first bolt, and held my breath when hitting the trigger - bingo first bolt came out a treat, some rust on the end of the thread but came out. Repeat for the other two harder to reach bolts, both took the air ratchet and socket and out them came.
Conclusion the air ratchet hits the bolt with shocks and tends to break the bolt free, wished I had used the air ratchet on the passenger side top mount now - oh well !!!
stute out complete with spring, compressed, top mount removed, new strut built up with spring and new top mount, fitted to car
hub attached, new bolt smothered in copper grease fitted and torqued up. Wife calls me in for tea, it 7pm so called it a day
Not a bad effort, 9am start, box in by 10am, hit a couple of gotchas on the JDD fitment all resolved by lunch time, afternoon spent highting the A2 Top mount divorce - I won, winner winner chicken dinner (that was what wiffy made me :)

To be continued when the lower ball joint rubber boots arrive on Wednesday fingers crossed

Cheers
Paul
 
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