1,2 TDI clutch/ gearbox problems

Here for RTFM12:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/5-Speed_Electronic_Manual_Transmission_(085)

Ensure that the actuator is connected to the change rod at the correct point - there is a depression in the rod for the securing screw. Also, were the correct instructions followed for replacement of the gasket; the actuator lever should not be dis-assembled because it is on a spline and there is only one way to re-assemble? Any play in the ball joints? Was the actuator screw loosened during the basic setting?

RAB
 
If the actuator was dis-assembled so that the spline was removed, look earlier on this thread (around #177) for info on correct assembly. Otherwise it might just be that the linkage just needs loosening and then re-tightening, taking care not to disturb adjustment when tightening.

RAB
 
RAB said:
If the actuator was dis-assembled so that the spline was removed, look earlier on this thread (around #177) for info on correct assembly. Otherwise it might just be that the linkage just needs loosening and then re-tightening, taking care not to disturb adjustment when tightening.

RAB
Click to expand...

Ok, only the bottom of the actuator was have been disassembled. But it looks as it is on your picture, the spline points as yours. The linkage was loosen and retighten like in ross tech site. The ball joint has only 1mm or even less move when tightened.
The basic settings rules were followed by letter to letter. In the past we made some basic settings for different reasons so I guess we have a problem somewhere but not in the process.
 
How many times have you carried out the basic setting? It does not always work first time. I assume that there is movement and you haven't reversed the hoses (one is for pressure and one is return). Otherwise it points to wear in the actuator, whereby the correct readings cannot be reached.

The correct values are here:

Value 3 (G239):
Selector lever in R, 1,3,5 setpoint 3,8V + -0,4V
Selector lever in 2.4 setpoint value 1.6V + -0.4V
Value 4 (G240):
Selector lever in R: 3.8V + -0.4V
Selector lever in 1.2: 3.0V + -0.4V
Selector lever in 3.4: 2.0V + -0.4V
Selector lever in 5: 1.2V + -0.4V

RAB
 
Hello,
What could be the problem, when basic setting stops at he moment, when I need to start engine? It simply wont start. Starter motor is working, tested it. Did everything like in the manual. Problems started after changing leaking oring on one of the pipes.
 
There's no requirement for a basic setting if you are only changing an O ring. RTFM? Gear Actuator adjusted?

RAB
 
Cleared errors due to pump disconnection, car didnt start. Thougt basic setting could help. Clutch = 1.98V, actuator was adjusted. Everything runs fine in basic setting until "StartMot". Its like something is blocking signal to starter. VCDS just waits for me to start the engine, there is no RTFM. If I quit VCDS there is no error due to interrupted basic setting.
 
So you had a starter problem before the basic setting? The starter motor has a device to prevent the motor from operating when it overheats (from start/stop). This is a square 'box' on top of the rear of the starter, near the electrical connection. These often fail but cannot be replaced. Just bypass it with a simple spade connection. Before doing so, make sure there is 12v at the connection when you try to start. If not, then it is likely to be a faulty relay.

RAB
 
Thanks fot the tips. Finaly had some time to work on the car. I had no starter problems before. Relay and that box on starter are working. I managed to start the car by putting 12V to the box. But engine runs ~5 seconds and stops. I was able to finish basic setting this way, but not able to start engine after it. At least I got 2 fault codes:
00263 Transmission 27-10 Implausible Signal Intermittent
01122 Clutch 17-10 Control Difference - Intermittent.
Retried doing full basic setting, got the same results.
 
The engine won't start because the system is fail-safe. Are you sure about the 01122 code - elsewhere it is shown as a camshaft sensor issue. Do you have sufficient hydraulic oil in the reservoir? How many gear changes can you make before the pump re-starts? If all that is OK, you probably have a problem with the clutch or the clutch actuator.

RAB
 
Hello guys,
Like most of you, I enjoy the “benefits” of the A2 “automatic” transmission.The situation is that at first the car stopped to start on STOP, then on N not always start. Also, the R gear is difficult to engage, needs to be abruptly connected from D to R, then actuated.I changed the rod and adjusted according to ELSA. No more freedom visible, enough hydraulic fluid. Clutch adaptation 1.91V (I don't know if this is important, but checking the voltage as you disconnect the hydraulic unit, it takes about 10-15 seconds to stop at 1.91V). Several times the adaptation got stuck showing RTFM 12. But after a closer adjustment of the rod, it stopped at the last point of "SEARCHNG" and nothing more happens. I waited 5min and nothing. Maybe you will advise what I will do. I try to do all the procedures in series according to the ross tech page, plugging in an external power supply so that the voltage does not drop below 12V. out of ideas.....
 
noone85 said:
Hello guys,
Like most of you, I enjoy the “benefits” of the A2 “automatic” transmission.The situation is that at first the car stopped to start on STOP, then on N not always start. Also, the R gear is difficult to engage, needs to be abruptly connected from D to R, then actuated.I changed the rod and adjusted according to ELSA. No more freedom visible, enough hydraulic fluid. Clutch adaptation 1.91V (I don't know if this is important, but checking the voltage as you disconnect the hydraulic unit, it takes about 10-15 seconds to stop at 1.91V). Several times the adaptation got stuck showing RTFM 12. But after a closer adjustment of the rod, it stopped at the last point of "SEARCHNG" and nothing more happens. I waited 5min and nothing. Maybe you will advise what I will do. I try to do all the procedures in series according to the ross tech page, plugging in an external power supply so that the voltage does not drop below 12V. out of ideas.....
Click to expand...

When stuck in searching - Something is wrong with your clutch. Has it ever been changed, when was it then changed, what milage are you at now?
There is to be little to no slack in the gear actuator rod (the rod on the gear robot), change if needed.
Also make sure that you can actually ADJUST the voltage over the clutch cylinder, set it to ~1.82v. If the voltage jumps up and down ("a bit funky") when trying to adjust and you are NOT able to set 1.82v, get a new clutch cylinder.


If you need help more urgently, send a PM and I'll give you my number =)
 
Only starting in N, not P is a sure sign that the actuator pot is failing. A better solution to replacing the actuator is to replace the sensor on the clutch actuator with a Hall effect sensor. The original sensor is a consumable part, the replacement not. Also cheaper than a new actuator. Contact Mankmil (https://a2-freun.de/forum/profile/20923-mankmil/ ) on the German forum - English is fine.

RAB
 
If you take the Mankmil option, make sure that when you install the actuator, the orange breather is on the underside. This allows any oil from the cylinder to vent without filling the sensor.

RAB
 
RAB said:
Only starting in N, not P is a sure sign that the actuator pot is failing. A better solution to replacing the actuator is to replace the sensor on the clutch actuator with a Hall effect sensor. The original sensor is a consumable part, the replacement not. Also cheaper than a new actuator. Contact Mankmil (https://a2-freun.de/forum/profile/20923-mankmil/ ) on the German forum - English is fine.

RAB
Click to expand...
Hi,
Are you talking about this part ?
IMG_9114.jpg
 
Hello @RAB
I hope You can help me
Year ago i purchased Lupo 3L with 261k km on dash. I have 2 main problems:
1) Start stop is not working completely: if i disconnect battery leads, connect them back, then ignition on-> start stop symbol in dash first time occurs ->start up the engine->drive in eco->press brake pedal 3+ secs and it shuts down motor. By releasing brake pedal engine starts as it should. But next time its shuts down, but not start - only i hear that starter is trigered and nothing else. Perhaps fail safe?
2) As my lupo has failed several times within 15k km (water in g240 and g235 sensors, linkage, 20mm washers etc), i have made several times all 3 adaptations, but still cars likes to slip clutch very much, and shifting from 1st to 2nd gear is not smooth. Could it be clutch? should i adjust to =/- 1,7v instead of 1,82...2.0?. Hydraulic solenoid for clutch? change clutch actuator?

couple weeks ago i bought scrapy lupo 3l with the same rtmf12, but missing clutch slave cylinder (it looks that no one here in Latvia knows, how to repair 3L VAG's). I did all adaptations, and car drives much better than my first lupo. creep point and sliping is perfect. start stop is working fine. No problem. Looking in measuring blocks, more or less all parameters are the same, but i found some differences: group 021 gradient and hill factor. What are these parameters?

Rab, what will You suggest to start with? As i have spare parts, i have possibility, but i do not have so much time to swap one by one all of them before i will solve a problem

thanks in advance
P.S. sorry for my English ;)
125942646_3455782264542434_706461718389445698_o.jpg

20190928-093839.sized.jpg
 
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