1.4 AUA Oil level and temp sensor

Richard 13B

Richard 13B

Member
England
Hello All. I am a newbie to the A2OC. I bought a 53 plate 1.4 petrol (AUA) SE the weekend before last. Just over 80k and pretty tidy. It survived the journey home but later that day had an engine (EMS) warning light come on. Read the forums, the clear consensus was “get a scan”. So using the online list and pdf map, I identified @2work as my local scan expert. Wow – Tom is a top bloke! Very helpful and knowledgeable. No mistaking his house with a fleet of A2s out front!!

Thanks to Tom, he identified the issue as an oil level / temperature sensor intermittent fault. Yesterday I put the car on the ramps and took off the undertray. The sensor was nice and obvious on the sump casing. I was half expecting the local wiring or the connector to have some damage, but it all looks fine. Marking on the sensor seems to be: 6PR 008 079-02 then 110907660:B

Is this a sensor which has a reputation for failing? I see from You Tube that it is fitted to a wide selection of VAG vehicles – from Golfs to Porsches. There doesn’t appear to be many reported problems but happy to take advice. I guess my first check should be +ve and earth lines. Does the sensor sit on its own fuse? Anyone know which one? I gather from You Tube that the same era A4 (1.8) has a dedicated 10A fuse – which seems a bit big for a sensor, but what do I know!

If the sensor is dying, where would be the best place to get a replacement? Many thanks.
 
Hello Richard,

Yes it was really nice and actually a complete pleasure to meet you last week. I felt we could have chatted for hours but knew our dinner was probably going cold.

You have got a cracking A2 there which just needs a little fettle to be singing sweet.

As I said last week, although I’m up for giving most things a try I’m not the mechanical type. Someone like Graham @audifan is usually a great source of information. Hopefully he’ll be along with some information regards the oil level/temperature sensor and possibly where else to check for faults. I can add your scan report to this thread if you like.

Of course the very best item to replace it with would be a genuine part which someone like Tom @CreweAudi can supply. Worth dropping him a PM with your VRN.

How has the engine been at idle since the throttle body alignment? Hopefully it’s still smooth but feel that you couldn’t do your alumnimiun friend any harm in replacing that tired looking fuel filter. It could be another possible cause of the rough idle after hearing the vehicle could have stood for a while with an almost empty tank during our conversation. On top of the fuel filter, id highly recommended refreshing the full service items if you done have a record of when they was last replaced.

Only yesterday @mtl posted a great tutorial (Post #70) on how to remove and fully clean the throttle body. It’s some 30 minutes long but certainly worth watching if you feel this might be something you could tackle yourself.

Here if you need any further assistance and happy to have you on my driveway once the road works are complete to fully introduce you to the fleet.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Hi Richard, fuse 38 I believe is the power source. BUT a fuse is not intermittent, it is either intact or blown so can rule the fuse out as long as it is a tight fit in the fuse box. The wiring needs to be in good shape , not damaged or broken and the plug needs to be free of corrosion and fitted tightly. Frequently a source of electrical errors is down to low battery power so make sure that your battery is still up to the job and the alternator is also working correctly.
On the wiring subject you say the car has stood for a long time so there is a possibility that rodents have chewed some of the wiring so you really do need to check it carefully. Add to that the engine earth may not be working correctly due to corroded terminals or even internal corrosion in the cable.
If it were me I would carefully check all the wiring and engine earth, charge the battery and drive for a week or two. Any faults produced then are more relevant. If the sensor is still intermittent then replace with an OEM quality sensor. This would also be a good time for an oil change as I believe the oil level / temp sensor is inserted into the bottom of the sump, so draining the oil out first could save a lot of mess.
Not 100% sure but always thought that if the battery is too low or disconnected then a throttle body adaptation is required.

Did Tom check the readings from the sensor in VCDS? One circuit could be fine but the other faulty ( or both ). On my tdi recently had a problem with the oil level / temp sensor and it was the temperature part that had failed with VCDs quoting my oil temperature at 155 with the engine off and cold.
 
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audifan said:
Hi Richard, fuse 38 I believe is the power source. BUT a fuse is not intermittent, it is either intact or blown so can rule the fuse out as long as it is a tight fit in the fuse box. The wiring needs to be in good shape , not damaged or broken and the plug needs to be free of corrosion and fitted tightly. Frequently a source of electrical errors is down to low battery power so make sure that your battery is still up to the job and the alternator is also working correctly.
On the wiring subject you say the car has stood for a long time so there is a possibility that rodents have chewed some of the wiring so you really do need to check it carefully. Add to that the engine earth may not be working correctly due to corroded terminals or even internal corrosion in the cable.
If it were me I would carefully check all the wiring and engine earth, charge the battery and drive for a week or two. Any faults produced then are more relevant. If the sensor is still intermittent then replace with an OEM quality sensor. This would also be a good time for an oil change as I believe the oil level / temp sensor is inserted into the bottom of the sump, so draining the oil out first could save a lot of mess.
Not 100% sure but always thought that if the battery is too low or disconnected then a throttle body adaptation is required.

Did Tom check the readings from the sensor in VCDS? One circuit could be fine but the other faulty ( or both ). On my tdi recently had a problem with the oil level / temp sensor and it was the temperature part that had failed with VCDs quoting my oil temperature at 155 with the engine off and cold.
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Hello Graham,

I didn’t go through the measuring black to validate the readings from the sensor. Guess that would have been a even more helpful, missed a trick there.

A throttle body alignment procedure was performed which did steady the engine at idle as it was quite erratic before hand. The only other thing I noticed was a new oil pressure sensor and couldn’t confirm if it was an OEM replacement, that said not not sure if this would cause an erratic idle but you know I’m no mechanical ninja.

Thanks for jumping in to assist as I’m sure Richard will appreciate it.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Hi Tom @2work we all know just how well these cars respond to a good quality service with good quality parts used. So new plugs, leads and possibly coil can make a world of difference. Along with correct quality oil, oil filter air filter and fuel filter. Replace the cabin pollen filter also so you can check the blower motor bearings.
 
Thanks Tom and Graham for all the help, much appreciated.

Just trying to gauge how often the combined sensor dies in service. Sounds like it can happen!
The connector and local wiring look really good, and the undertray is still there, so no stone impact damage.
Earth strap is a good shout - and I will check the battery voltage. But TBH, the car cranks well, so I think its probably OK .... but will check.

Engine is more stable at idle than before your realignment, Tom, but it is still hunting a little bit.

Where would you suggest sourcing "normal" service parts like fuel, oil and air filters? Also spark plugs, brake pads and the like?
From reading other threads, it sounds like a gearbox oil change would be a sensible move too.... and the cam belt is quite old!!!
 
You could ask Tom @CreweAudi for the price and availability of a service kit for your car. Failing that find the part numbers you need then do a bit of Google research.
As for the gearbox oil yes but not urgent... the cam belt on the other hand may well be urgent. The brake fluid should be changed every 2 years and the coolant also needs replacing with the CORRECT G12, G12+, G12++ or G13 ONLY.

I always look at an A2 that is new to you going to take up to 2 years to sort out the one previous careful owner but the last seven cut every corner they could.
 
Thanks Graham - will ask Tom @CreweAudi for service kit. Looks like there are limits to which coolants can be mixed. So perhaps best to drain and rinse through with distilled water - and start again! It seems G12, G12+, G12++ and G13 are all available. Presumably any one except G12evo would do, in the right dilution.....?
 
Even easier if you buy it premixed. That way if you need to top up you are adding at the same strength.
 
Richard 13B said:
I bought a 53 plate 1.4 petrol (AUA) SE the weekend before last. Just over 80k and pretty tidy. It survived the journey home but later that day had an engine (EMS) warning light come on.
Click to expand...

In case you are not already aware, you live not too far from WOM Automotive, just past Uttoxeter, who are the best of the best when it comes to servicing the A2. So if you ever need professional assistance, you know where to go.

WOM Automotive

Automotive Sales & VAG Techology Specialists in Staffordshire
womautomotive.co.uk womautomotive.co.uk
 
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