1.4 SE Project AZ by Miniswift

Hi,
I have been busy with A2.
First of all, stainless exhaust system I made worked very well but it was like a boy/girl racer and my friendly mechanic advise me that to replace.
This is due to too much attention from the Police, so I bought OEM back box from eBay for £90 delivered. It turns out that fit was OK with stainless mid box I made and it is very quiet and my girl is happy that it won't attract attention.
It passed MOT but my hydro-carbon value is high due to burning oil a little.
When the car got quiet after changing exhaust, you will notice so many little noises in the car.
In particular, I can hear noise from dashboard fittings. My head light switch has bit of gap everywhere and it moves a little. Is there anything I can do to fit better?
I will be changing 1.4 engine to 18k miles 2nd hand engine soon. I will be fitting a new cam belt kits, clutch, oil breezer separator and so on.
Can you think of anything else? I might need to replace exhaust manifold just in case my CAT is damaged by oil.

Cheers
Atchi
 
Last edited:
I will be replacing my 1.4 BBY engine with 18K miles old engine.
I will be replacing cam belt, oil pump, crank oil seal, oil mist separator and bottom arms.

Does any one wants old engine?
 
miniswift said:
I will be replacing my 1.4 BBY engine with 18K miles old engine.
I will be replacing cam belt, oil pump, crank oil seal, oil mist separator and bottom arms.

Does any one wants old engine?
Click to expand...

Is the bby from a different car?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi,

Yes, I bought it from eBay.
It was modern scrap yard who breaks cars.
My receipt says original car and MOT checker says it was 16k miles.

Cheers
Atchi
 
miniswift said:
Hi,

Yes, I bought it from eBay.
It was modern scrap yard who breaks cars.
My receipt says original car and MOT checker says it was 16k miles.

Cheers
Atchi
Click to expand...
Hi Atchi,
@greywolfhound perhaps as he sold one & it was being scrapped due to an accident shortly after the sale if I recollect correctly.
Keith
 
So after an engine change, car performs like a new car.
While I was under the car, we have replaced following:-
both bottom arms to cast iron ones with Ali cradles(you know screw usually share)
exhaust manifold as it was drinking oil.
middle silencer with new Lamda sensor.
cam belt kit.

This new engine is so quiet and once clutch has bedded in, it is very good.
I drove it and it has plenty of torque and no more tappet noise.

Coolant level dropped to minimum after driving 500 miles now. So I need to keep an eye on it.
 
Making sport exhaust for your daughters when they just started learning to drive, is a bold move lol. If you'd kept the middle box but installed oem back box, does it mean you still got the stainless steel back box? Cheers
 
I still have stainless steel CAT back system in my garage.
She wanted to be unnoticeable so it has now standard box.

I can still use it for my Mini project and mk1 Swift Gti project, so it is not wasted.
If anyone wants it I can sell as well but it is very much LOUD!
 
miniswift said:
I can still use it for my Mini project and mk1 Swift Gti project
Click to expand...
How is that? Do Mini's and Swifts have same exhaust lay out?
I'd be interested but only to use the back box and not the whole system, with factory mid-silencer the stainless back box shouldn't be too loud? Cheers
 
Hi,
1.75" tubes are used for Mini as well as Swift Gti.
As I can do welding on Stainless Steel with TIG and MIG, I can just cut them and weld.
I'm hoping to turbo charge a G10(993cc) engine and I'm hoping to do with 2".

If you are interested in buying it, I can sell it to you for cost price of material plus postage.
 
Hi,
So, I have a teething problem with my front passenger side door.
Starting with windows doesn't work using P/S switch.
From the driver side switch, I can open and closed. Now, I used 2 switches but it doesn't work.
The first replacement, I used original harness with differemt switch so... it might be dead. 2nd switch I got is from Tom @2work. Assuming it is good working order. Could it be control module is knackered?
What do you guys think?
 
miniswift said:
Hi,
So, I have a teething problem with my front passenger side door.
Starting with windows doesn't work using P/S switch.
From the driver side switch, I can open and closed. Now, I used 2 switches but it doesn't work.
The first replacement, I used original harness with differemt switch so... it might be dead. 2nd switch I got is from Tom @2work. Assuming it is good working order.
Could it be control module is knackered?
What do you guys think?
Click to expand...
Have you scanned the ccu?
Plug in your code scanner, and go to:
Common
Engine
Channel 46
Scan for fault codes

You probably gonna get a few old codes as well, so make note of the faults, then delete, then scan again.
 
Hi Atchi,

Just responded to your PM. The switch and loom I sent you was removed from Project RN53 and I’ve since fitted the other style switches to match the rears of a Rear Electric Window upgrade.

Both the switch and loom I sent was confirmed as working perfectly last week before removal. I very much doubt the loom could have got damaged in transit but maybe the switch may have if it was dropped. Is there any signs of damage. I’m happy to exchange the switch for you if you’re able to send the switch I sent you back to me, keep the loom with your good self though. This will be a good process of elimination as I’ll retest the switch here.

Should this third switch not work then the fault is clearly elsewhere which is strange as the motor is obviously working from the drivers side. With a known good switch and loom then I can only assume that the fault somehow resides within the motor module. Could the connector pins in the motor module be at fault?

I suggest a scan with VCDS as suggested above but not sure it picks up the faults on switches as never noticed this in the past.

Let me know how you wish to proceed as I can have another switch in the post tomorrow morning.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Atchi,

If you’re able to without the passengers motor module for a few days then you could send it to me along with the loom and switch and I’ll test the whole set up in one of the fleet.

Totally up to you as I’m more than happy to help out.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
miniswift said:
Hi,
So, I have a teething problem with my front passenger side door.
Starting with windows doesn't work using P/S switch.
From the driver side switch, I can open and closed. Now, I used 2 switches but it doesn't work.
The first replacement, I used original harness with differemt switch so... it might be dead. 2nd switch I got is from Tom @2work. Assuming it is good working order. Could it be control module is knackered?
What do you guys think?
Click to expand...
Thats a coincidence, I just came in from the garage where I had the very same issue (although a LHD car).
I could operate the passenger front window perfectly from the driver door panel, but either stocastic or not at all from the passenger side switch.

I changed the switch but no improvement.
I then changed the door control/winder module.
That fixed the problem. 🙂
 
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