1.4 tdi ATL lumpy rough rocking tick over running video

CrispyEdd

Member
United-Kingdom
Hello,

The engine (138K) rocks alot on tick over (warm or cold) and sounds really rough to me, having never had an A2 to compare against I thought the 3 cyclinders was reason. However having seen video of the 1.4 tdi for sale today on market ( what a beauty) with that ticking over smoother than a melting George Clooney wax model, Im now concerned Im on borrowed time.

It goes into varying modes of lumpy when coming to a stop (rev counter stays smooth tho) and putting the clutch in and out causes a lot of sounds to go. There is the odd random knock noise too. With light aplpication of throttle it feels lumpy then smooths out.
Im thinking its clutch flywheel time?

I had a check of the fueling of the injector and they were +/- 2.0 mg/str, which I was told was too high, should be about 0.2 +/-? Can someone confirm? Apparently this has them adjsuting constantly for more fuel less fuel and doent help the smoothness.
I didnt have any codes to clear.

Ill pop out a do a video and try and add it in a bit (ill let neighbours sleep!) Any ideas what size video limits MB the forum can handle?

 
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Faulty injector(s) or faulty injector loom. Clogged up inlet manifold could also contribute.
 
Faulty injector(s) or faulty injector loom. Clogged up inlet manifold could also contribute.
Thanks @audifan. Good point on inlet, Im contemplating egr removal and map out too, if turbo doesnt come good thats bee off too. The loom seal is leaking so thats got to be changed, I guess get that done first and see what heppens. Been quoted £700 for set of injectors fitted so the £80 for loom seeems more than logical first step. Ill get the jobs done in a batch, so making a list at moment. Wow the lists escalate dont they :cool:
 
Injector loom with bad contacts will change injection value, faulty injector reading would be more constant so yes go for the loom. Same injector loom fitted to the 1.2 and all 1.4 A2 diesels ( and others ). this will hopefully cure two issues. Air restriction would show across the power band more like a general sluggishness. Make sure the rocker cover gasket area is correctly fitted to prevent oil leaks.
You could also check how bad the EGR valve is an possibly clean it.
 
Injector loom with bad contacts will change injection value, faulty injector reading would be more constant so yes go for the loom. Same injector loom fitted to the 1.2 and all 1.4 A2 diesels ( and others ). this will hopefully cure two issues. Air restriction would show across the power band more like a general sluggishness. Make sure the rocker cover gasket area is correctly fitted to prevent oil leaks.
You could also check how bad the EGR valve is an possibly clean it.
Good advice, reassuring as always from the forum! (video still up loading link to follow). IT certianly has power when turbo cuts in, she realy goes well.
 
Other things it could be include DMF, engine mounts, pendulum mount, tandem pump, ASV and fuel filter.
 
Other things it could be include DMF, engine mounts, pendulum mount, tandem pump, ASV and fuel filter.
Thank you, fuel filter was done 117K and crank sensor , engine mount & dog bone seem right at this milage I was thinking they may be culprits, tandem pump - ill keep that in mind, it may still be culprit to the oil leak, if so it will go for new one.
 
You can easily check the injector loom and injectors without removing anything except the loom connector on the gearbox side of the head. Once removed you will see four contacts. Check the resistance between the contact at bottom left and the other three contacts. The resistance should be 0.5 ohms.

RAB
 
You can easily check the injector loom and injectors without removing anything except the loom connector on the gearbox side of the head. Once removed you will see four contacts. Check the resistance between the contact at bottom left and the other three contacts. The resistance should be 0.5 ohms.

RAB
Right - okay, wll see how to get it off and try and find manual to my multimeter :) Baffling bit of kit that but I can sometimes get my head round it, any tips on settings/ how to actually test it?
 
Just turn the connector anti-clockwise as far as it will go and pull it off. Use the resistance and common connections on the DVM and set the DVM to the lowest resistance range.

RAB
 
Just turn the connector anti-clockwise as far as it will go and pull it off. Use the resistance and common connections on the DVM and set the DVM to the lowest resistance range.

RAB
thank you will post back findings later...
 
You can easily check the injector loom and injectors without removing anything except the loom connector on the gearbox side of the head. Once removed you will see four contacts. Check the resistance between the contact at bottom left and the other three contacts. The resistance should be 0.5 ohms.

RAB
0.5 resistance, I check battery and altenator Voltge while there and they are spot on. So not injector loom then. DMF or engine mount dog bone thingy. Will have to take undertray off and check that then, got air filter to do too.
 
What a coincidence, I recently contacted @Cenick about lumpy idle thinking it might be the oil pump chain. My ATL is almost at 223K so things I'm going to consider replacing are the dogbone engine mount and possibly the oil pump chain next time I have the timing belt etc. done.

I have found less lumpy idle and vibration in the cabin after :

1) Replacing my ASV (I have two genuine parts). When I service the car, I swap them out and clean the one removed to be ready for the next service.

2) Using a good diesel injector cleaner and an 'Italian tune up'

I initially thought it was due to the DMF but that is still quite new so I ruled that out.

So far, the vibration in the cabin is much reduced after doing 1 and 2 above.

Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
 
@fhl thanks for that info, reassuring to get past 200K i want to achieve monster milage if i can. I have just taken delivery of Forte turbo cleaner, and will follow that up with the fuel cleaner for injectors by forte also. Im in lockdown now so cant run it through. Great idea on the ASV, had no idea it makes such a difference, I guess it clogs like the EGR?
 
I've found quite a bit of oil in the ASV after each service interval of 9300 miles. I carefully open up the ASV and use degreaser. I've noticed that a greasy ASV can trigger the EML. So, when this happens, I swap it out.

I've used the Forte stuff and found it really good. Recently though, I tried the little red bottles of Redex one shot and after using them in 2 tanks of diesel the vibration in the cabin noticeably reduced.

Like you have found, the rev counter remains steady at idle with or without vibration felt in the cabin.

Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
 
She's been in the local audi specialist and had new cam belt and oil cooler big leak (pumping!) sorted out, this has made her start smoother and generally look and sound better, however the rocking is confirmed as engine mounts driver side top for sure possible left gearbox one too. Code for osf mount suspension bit is 8z0199262r is this something I can get still?
 

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