[1.6 FSI] - No breaks after bleeding and sitting for 3 weeks

E

Evripidis

Member
Hi all,

Here is the story so far. I replaced all 4 discs/pads etc. and then successfully bled the system starting at the back, furthest from the pump and so on and so forth Handbrake adjusted all OK.

THEN I decided to fix another leak before putting it back on the road and this is when the 3-piece hose connecting the oil-cooler, radiator and thermostat housing gave up the ghost. Managed to get a genuine NOS from ebay for 25 quid and waited for it to arrive to Cyprus for 3 weeks.

Today I went back to the car to fit it, all went OK, but I have no break pedal!!!!

It is extremely soft and goes all the way to the floor very easily and it will not firm up no matter how many times I pump it.

EDIT: I also have had to replace the front break hoses as they had perished. So a lot of fluid escaped.

Any ideas please?

Cheers,
Evros
 
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Hi,

Indeed I have after performing a google search. I must admit that I thought that this was too weird deserving a new thread but I was proven wrong once again.

The only place I can get a VCDS around here is from a fellow member that unfortunately lives a bit far from where I am. My other thought was to bleed the pump several times while running the engine or figure out a way to trigger the pump without actually driving the car by emulating the wheel input. Shouldn't be that difficult but I am quite pressed for time at the moment for such an experiment.

Evros
 
When I had the same problem I tried different techniques, pressurize the reservoir, vacuum suction through the bleeder screw and the normal pumping the pedal. Pumping the pedal was the solution, but it took its time and a fair amount of brake fluid. I did also use VCDS to bleed the ABS pump but with a combination of pumping the pedal.

I found this: If you really feel the need to cycle the valves, but do not have access to a service tool (or if the dealer is not willing to loan theirs) you COULD just replace VCDS with "go driving and slam on the brakes a few times to make the ABS work" to purge the used fluid from the unit. This is usually NOT the most efficient nor socially responsible solution, though it seems to work just fine. You still need to bleed the car a second time, but it saves you from procuring the service tool.
 
Hi,

I just tried this as the roads are quiet where I live at the moment. I could not get any air out but the new discs/pads surely bedded in nicely!

Do you know if the procedure can be carried out by purchasing a license from ross-tech while using a generic cable?

Evros
 
Evripidis said:
Hi,

I just tried this as the roads are quiet where I live at the moment. I could not get any air out but the new discs/pads surely bedded in nicely!

Do you know if the procedure can be carried out by purchasing a license from ross-tech while using a generic cable?

Evros
Click to expand...
If have a cable it may worth downloading carport OBD software. I have not used it myself yet but saved the link as I plan a cruise control upgrade. Here is the link:

CarPort - OBD Car Diagnostics / Diagnostic Software for Volkswagen (VW), Audi, Škoda and SEAT / OBD2 Software

OBD2 scan tool (all car brands) / Manufacturer specific diagnostics for Volkswagen, Audi, Seat and Skoda
carport-diagnostics.com carport-diagnostics.com
 
OK, this didn't work any ideas? The servo appears to be fine, i.e., pressure builds up and then drops when the engine starts.

EDIT: Apologies, just tried it again and the pedal is back to normal, or whatever that used to be before doing all this. Cheers!
 
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Hi, it appears to have come back to normal now. I will have a look just in case. Any pointers as to their whearabouts?
 
As Audifan knows, I had the exact same issue with the lads A2, after bleeding the brakes using the eezibleed kit and pushing around 2 litres of fresh fluid through the system all became well and it passed its MOT.
Persevering with it and advice from Audifan and result.
 
If the servo is fine then it is down to trapped air. I just helped johnyfartbox with this very problem. The order for bleeding on a right hand drive car is rear left, rear right, front left, front right and lastly the clutch. By the amount of fluid lost there is a good chance the ABS pump will also need bleeding. So start with the rear left until you have a good clear flow of fluid. If there is no fluid coming out stop with the left rear and bleed the right front as it is on the same diagonal circuit as the left rear. If good fluid flow, then restart from the left rear again. You will need VCDS to purge the ABS pump.
 
Hi all,

Done exactly what has been described above this morning. The pedal must be back to what it used to be but to be fair I cannot remember what it was like because it is now almost a whole month that I have not driven it; if not more. I also have to account the fact that all the pads/disc have also been replaced and they have to bed in. I did bleed the ABS pump too. Went though the process 3 times. A small amount of crud came out during the first time along with several air bubbles. The times after the first one only clear fluid.

The servo appears to be fine if my test pattern has been correct.

I'll drive it as it is and see how it gets on.
 
Now here comes the trick; I cannot drive still because I am waiting on the rear shocks to arrive because I found out that that they are shot too. So before driving I have to get the geometry checked and the steering wheel aligned. So until I can get the rear shocks replaced I won't be taking it in for the check. There appears to be no adjustment for the rear but what the heck might as well wait.
 
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