[1.6 FSI Sump] - Number and location of bolts

Evripidis

Member
Hi all,

I would like a solid response from someone that has removed the sump from their a2.

How many M6 bolts have you take off. I can only measure 18 that I have removed whereas the parts diagram lists 20. There appear to be another two right next to the flywheel but I cannot fathom how one could remove those as I cannot even touch them with a screwdriver.

Any ideas welcome.

EDIT: I suppose I am going to need a long reach allen 5mm correct?

Regards,
Evros
 
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Rogan

Member
Oh, glad you are doing this, it's on my sunday list... well the last week's list. I don't actually want to do it at all. :(

You need a special tool, it should be listed on the sump removal pdf, anyway it's a 5mm ball ended hex, about 200mm long VAG part number is T10058.

I bought a Sealy equivalent VS0590 from ebay for 12 quid delivered. It looks to be of adequate quality and I think it's 3cm longer than the real thing.

e: I heard the ball end is essential for getting them in or out, some poor guy was lamenting the problem on another thread.
 

Evripidis

Member
Yes that's the one. Where the heck do I get one in Cyprus then is beyond me. I am going to try the local stores but I feel that I will be out of luck.
 

Evripidis

Member
Can't wait any longer, it has to go back on the road. Getting it from ebay means at least another week of waiting. It has already been on jack stands waiting for parts long enough. I should be receiving brakes, hoses, strut top mounts tomorrow, the sump drain plug has to be fixed, the exhaust flexi is leaking and there is yet another leaking coolant hose. I also found out today that I also need front shocks that I am going to try and source from the motorfactors over here. A month ago I did all four cv joints and it has been on jack stands for a while before that.
 

Andrew

A2OC Donor
Hopefully an ebay seller may post one out to you. 🤞
If you dig down a bit actually that eBay seller in the link posts to Cyprus at a price of £16.10 but that seems exorbitant, costs more than the tool, and then the wait for delivery. Ball ended drives do not seem that rare surely there must be one decent tool shop in Cyprus, but there again I don't live there. What about flexible drives?

Andy
 

Rogan

Member
Amazon ?

I need to turn the flywheel but the oil pump chain's caught. I guess I'll have to jiggle at the crankshaft bolt.

The welding idea checks out, the hardest ones on mine have been easy to crack with a normal length 1/2in ratchet.
 

Weetank2

Member
1/4 drive with wobble end on extension has sufficied when doing previously

If the crank on 1.4 tdi is solid due to chain failure have u tried anticlockwise the chain usually bunches around the remains of the tensioner and the crank gear
 

Evripidis

Member
If you dig down a bit actually that eBay seller in the link posts to Cyprus at a price of £16.10 but that seems exorbitant, costs more than the tool, and then the wait for delivery. Ball ended drives do not seem that rare surely there must be one decent tool shop in Cyprus, but there again I don't live there. What about flexible drives?

Andy
I could be overreacting but usually this is the case. There is a decent tool shop but it is an hour's drive from here. I might not be able to get the right one but I could come across ones with a T-handle.
 

Rogan

Member
1/4 drive with wobble end on extension has sufficied when doing previously

If the crank on 1.4 tdi is solid due to chain failure have u tried anticlockwise the chain usually bunches around the remains of the tensioner and the crank gear
Thanks, I hadn't thought of using anything but a 19mm 12 point socket, and it honestly looks tight.

A chap had talked about cracking the car into reverse and rolling, and I've had a little play at the wheels but brake friction is pretty high from sitting.

I did it to myself really, ran it in idle until the jam, had thought it was a missfire from a bad loom. :(

It was also a missfire from a bad loom.
 

Evripidis

Member
Well, I have been able to find a T-handle ball 5mm allen key and managed to remove the fiddly bolts. The ball head allows 25 degrees vertical inclination with respect to the fastener's head so this is the reason. If they'd placed the holes right on top of the bolts the sump would not clear the exhaust. This is indeed quite stupid and there is no other way to describe it. You can easily strip the bolt and you'd have a hard time drilling it off.

You also have to stick to allen head screws because you'd have a hard time tightening the ones that are offset with any other head configuration.

Now I have to figure out how to put it on, because you can easily drop one behind the spacer plate right next to the flywheel. I will be performing a couple of test runs first without RTV.
 

Rogan

Member
I wanted to send you this last night, but I broke my virtual machine trying to get it to spit out pdfs.

It's got tightening order and torques etc.
 

Attachments

Evripidis

Member
Hi Rogan, thank you very much. I got the software too and the procedure is indeed straightforward. I am worried that the the two hidden bolts will not align easily when re-installing. The procedure you got appears to be for a slighlt different engine configuration on a different VAG car, the same by 99% though for the A2.
 

Evripidis

Member
OK, if anyone is interested the way to get the sump back on a 1.6 is to use a dab of superglue in the fastener's head and attach it to the long-reach ball-head allen. The two should be glued at an angle and then with the aid of a flashlight shine towards the flywheel from the side of the sump so you are looking at the bolts/holes from the side. Carefully slide the glued bolt and start the thread. At this point the glue will start breaking off and you can carry on with screwing the entire bolt.

Phew!
 
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