1.6fsi A couple of fault codes

Lambytone

Member
Hi, I've got a few codes on my fsi. Codes as follows
P0139, P0192, P1176, P2201.
It's a 2003 fsi. Bought in Dec of last year, problems started with overfilling with oil in March of this year through not being able to make out the level on the dip stick. I thought I had an oil burner and kept topping it up. In the end I had about 8 litres of oil in it. But 2 litres of that were added after I broke down when my garage told me to put more oil in as my turbo had gone ? Obviously no turbo on an fsi but I didn't know that at the time and just followed advice given. Sump was drained but oil had gone through the PCV system. Lots of clattering and lots of white smoke. I thought the bottom end had gone at the time. Anway, the car at the moment has a very erratic tickover at start up when cold. But after running for a couple of minutes is solid as a rock. Also at start up after turning the key the revs will sometimes jump to about 1200 rpm and then just die. You have to catch it at the right moment with the throttle and it will start, but it doesnt do this all the time, sometimes it'll start straight away with no erratic idle and sometimes you can hear and feel it missing but after a couple of minutes it's solid as a rock. The other thing it does is every now and again it will jump as in a single misfire while driving at speed. Just every now and again and only once in a while. Starting from warm, no misfires no erratic idle. I've invested in a cheap cable for VCDS Lite and its basically showing the same codes using my Bluetooth obd and torque except for an air leak on manifold but can't remember the code off hand. The P0192 fault, pressure rail circuit low, would that be the cause of my starting issue? The garage have ordered a fuel pressure regulator and are fitting it next week. Tps wanted £156 plus vat but they've sourced me a Bosch one which is alot cheaper. They also priced up a Nox sensor from tps at £288 plus vat, does that sound right? The other 3 faults if I'm correct, are they to do with the Nox/ lambda on the 2nd cat. I've just ordered a lambda but now realise it's the Nox sensor not the pre cat lambda. Also I'm lucky to get about 270 miles between top ups. Is this to do with the second lambda/ nox? It's getting very expensive with fuel especially when the car is telling me its doing 47 to the gallon when clearly its not. Originally I was using normal supermarket fuel not knowing it should run on 99 Ron but now using v power or tesco 99ron for the last 2 months. Sorry this post is so long. I'm still learning but havent got a clue where to start. I take the bonnet off and just see a mass of pipes and I'm trying work out what everything does. I'm willing to have go. I Hope someone can help.
 

PlasticMac

Member
It's hard to know where to start, as I'm sure you realise. So, a few questions:
What scan tool was used to get the P0139, P0192, P1176, P220?
Have those codes been cleared, and a rescan done after a drive?
Are you 100% sure the oil level is correct, ae measured on the dipstick? (Also, is the dipstick intact?).
What grade of fuel are you using? If anything but 98/99 Super Unleaded, top the tank up with Shell V Power, or other big brand Super Unleaded such as Esso Synergy 99, now. The FSI is designed to run on 98/99 exclusively. Then stick with that. (premium 95/E10 will damage your engine).
Look forward to more info, and be more helpful.
Mac.
 

Andrew

A2OC Donor
I am with Mac here, a thousand and one questions.

Did the car run fine between December and March before the unfortunate episode with the oil?

Any parts replaced as a result?

I am thinking the principle candidate is the oil separator (also seems to be more widely called the PCV) which surely would have become totally gunged up and according to internet wisdom (and occasionally on here) account for all your current faults.

Is the garage involved in this proposed batch of replacement parts the same garage who previously gave advice related to the fictitious turbo? (I hope not!).

Please post here the VCDS Lite scan output. If you not aware this is normally automatically saved in 'Logs' buried somewhere in the Ross-Tech directory on C drive.

Andy
 

Lambytone

Member
I'm currently at a place that does remaps and he has scanned the car with vcds but didn't record them. We are waiting on something not sure what and going to do another test run and he will record the scan. Hopefully post it up later. What he has found us a misfire on cylinder 4.
 

PlasticMac

Member
I am with Mac here, a thousand and one questions.

Did the car run fine between December and March before the unfortunate episode with the oil?

Any parts replaced as a result?

I am thinking the principle candidate is the oil separator (also seems to be more widely called the PCV) which surely would have become totally gunged up and according to internet wisdom (and occasionally on here) account for all your current faults.

Is the garage involved in this proposed batch of replacement parts the same garage who previously gave advice related to the fictitious turbo? (I hope not!).

Please post here the VCDS Lite scan output. If you not aware this is normally automatically saved in 'Logs' buried somewhere in the Ross-Tech directory on C drive.

Andy
The fault log is only auto saved in full fat VCDS, not in Lite, even if licensed. Easiest way to save a log in Lite is to use the Copy option, and paste into NotePad.
Mac.
 

Lambytone

Member
It's hard to know where to start, as I'm sure you realise. So, a few questions:
What scan tool was used to get the P0139, P0192, P1176, P220?
Have those codes been cleared, and a rescan done after a drive?
Are you 100% sure the oil level is correct, ae measured on the dipstick? (Also, is the dipstick intact?).
What grade of fuel are you using? If anything but 98/99 Super Unleaded, top the tank up with Shell V Power, or other big brand Super Unleaded such as Esso Synergy 99, now. The FSI is designed to run on 98/99 exclusively. Then stick with that. (premium 95/E10 will damage your engine).
Look forward to more info, and be more helpful.
Mac.
I've used a bluetooth obd scanner with Torque pro on my phone for the codes. But I have vcds lite and will post a scan up ASAP. I have scanned with vcds before and cleared the codes and they come back. I have a new dipstick from tps and have been checking the oil regularly. The problem being I live on a hill and usually check the oil when I come out of work. I am running on V power now. Initially supermarket fuel as I didn't know it had to run on 99ron.
 

Lambytone

Member
I am with Mac here, a thousand and one questions.

Did the car run fine between December and March before the unfortunate episode with the oil?

Any parts replaced as a result?

I am thinking the principle candidate is the oil separator (also seems to be more widely called the PCV) which surely would have become totally gunged up and according to internet wisdom (and occasionally on here) account for all your current faults.

Is the garage involved in this proposed batch of replacement parts the same garage who previously gave advice related to the fictitious turbo? (I hope not!).

Please post here the VCDS Lite scan output. If you not aware this is normally automatically saved in 'Logs' buried somewhere in the Ross-Tech directory on C drive.

Andy
Did the car run ok? I honestly can't remember. I bought it the middle of December on Tuesday used it for 4 days then got covid. Spent 10 days isolating then spent a week in hospital with it. 2 weeks after coming out my appendix went and went into hospital again. Didn't really drive much through February as still recovering and started driving again in March which is when the oil thing happened. Nothing replaced other than oil drained and refilled.
 

Andrew

A2OC Donor
The fault log is only auto saved in full fat VCDS, not in Lite, even if licensed. Easiest way to save a log in Lite is to use the Copy option, and paste into NotePad.
Mac.
I wondered if that be the case so a limitation of Lite, but sounds easy enough to get round.
Thanks for the info.

Andy
 

PlasticMac

Member
I've used a bluetooth obd scanner with Torque pro on my phone for the codes. But I have vcds lite and will post a scan up ASAP. I have scanned with vcds before and cleared the codes and they come back. I have a new dipstick from tps and have been checking the oil regularly. The problem being I live on a hill and usually check the oil when I come out of work. I am running on V power now. Initially supermarket fuel as I didn't know it had to run on 99ron.
Great, post the VCDS scan a PDF of possible (copy & paste into NotePad or similar, then Print as a PDF). VCDS has a copy button, so copying is a doddle.
If the misfire is only one cylinder one, swap coil pack between one and two, see if the misfire moves with he coil pack.
Mac.
 

Lambytone

Member
I'm currently at a place that does remaps and he has scanned the car with vcds but didn't record them. We are waiting on something not sure what and going to do another test run and he will record the scan. Hopefully post it up later. What he has found us a misfire on cylinder 4.
I couldn't wait around in the end and had to leave. I'm going back to him on Friday when hopefully he'll be able to do what I want. I've got a copy of an old vcds scan but I think there's more codes on the new one.
 

Evripidis

Member
With so much oil in it I'd start taking the intake apart and cleaning things because some of it must have come up through the ventilation. There is an oil collector at the back of the engine that must be full and I would take it out and have a look. If there was too much oil in it then it must surely had an effect on the catalytic converter itself and the accompanying sensors, i.e., the lambda and the nox sensor maybe even the pressure sensor on the inlet manifold.
 

Lambytone

Member
I'm not going to be able to scan again until Saturday at least. I'm supposed to be going back to the remap place on Friday and he will do another scan hopefully. I've spoken to the guy at the remap place about doing everything in the Proboost remap and he says its possible to do. He says he's part of a network that if he couldn't do the mod then someone in the network would be able to do and then they swap info to do the mod. I think that's what we were waiting for yesterday was, waiting for someone to come back about removing the stratified mode and staying in homogenous mode only.
 

PlasticMac

Member
@Lambytone
Your car has a number of undiagnosed problems. Making untested changes to the map now will make fault finding more difficult. Error codes, (as well as the way it runs), are telling you there's a problem(s), mapping sensors out will not help.
Mac.
 

Lambytone

Member
Screenshot_20211021-082432_Docs.jpgScreenshot_20211021-082505_Docs.jpgScreenshot_20211021-082606_Docs.jpg
 

PlasticMac

Member
I'd concentrate on the the inlet air leak, just as @Evripidis has recommended, and the oil separator, as @Andrew has recommended.
Leave the other codes for now, they could be secondary faults related to the inlet/oil separator.
Mac.
 

Lambytone

Member
Ok, where do I start with the air leak. I've read about doing a smoke test! Where would I do that in the system. Don't get me wrong I'm mechanically minded but haven't got a clue where to start. The fsi engine is a bit daunting with the amount of pipes and sensors on it. I've downloaded a copy of the workshop manual and have been copying the sections of the fsi engine into a dedicated folder. I've also started copying pictures from the 7zap page and putting them with the workshop stuff too.
How easy/ hard is it to get to the oil separator? I'm presuming it would be accessible from underneath with the engine tray removed. Would I be able to access it using wheel ramps?
 

Evripidis

Member
I'd just take it apart until you reach the EGR and replace any gasket that is suspect. You have to remove the cabin air intake held in place by 3 small nuts. If you feel like removing the EGR it might get complicated as you'd have to remove the EGR pipe as well as the mechanical fuel pump. Not difficult just time-consuming.

The separator you'd have to do from the underneath, not a difficult job just time-consuming because you have to fiddle the tools around to get to the bolts. The separator has gaskets on it too but I managed to reuse them with an additional smear of oil-resistant (black) gasket maker.

Also make sure that the hose and valve going from the filler neck to the intake is snug.
 

Andrew

A2OC Donor
.,....
How easy/ hard is it to get to the oil separator? I'm presuming it would be accessible from underneath with the engine tray removed. Would I be able to access it using wheel ramps?
I think you have your answer from Evripidis, doable but fiddly and awkward. Scant mention in the workshop guide except remove and put back with a couple of torque figures and no doubt renew seals. I can help a little with the location, looking up at the back of the engine look for the holed bracket that supports the upper inlet manifold and it is just to the right.


oil separator 1.jpeg
oil separator 2.JPG


I am sure how the oil separator (called pressure control valve in workshop guide) is for servicing, I.e open it up and clean, suspect largely a sealed unit, but I do remember a member repaired the membrane and it cured their problems so this must be accessible. Dread to think of the cost of a new oil separator and be careful not to break the clips on the hoses or that will be more expense.

Please do post how you get on and the part number if you would as I am confused about that.

Andy

Edit. The pictures are of two different engines.
 
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