1.6fsi oil filler pipe ….Help please

Hi,

The opposite end of the tube, where it fits into the engine, could be stressed if the part is still on the vehicle. Could you please take the part out of the car? We also run the risk of filling the sump with hot water, which will become apparent when you read the next paragraph.
It would be preferable to uniformly disperse the heat in order to soften the black plastic tube.
Using a piece of rag that has been cut to size, carefully bandage the area of the plastic tube you want to soften.
Pour the boiling water over the bandage and leave it for a time. Continue adding hot water until the plastic tube feels sufficiently pliable, then attempt to remove all the end part as one piece. Make an effort to avoid causing the plastic tube to distort.
If you are having trouble attaching the black clip to the new orange portion, send us a picture showing the connection between the two so we can examine it together.
Before beginning to disassemble the part from the old plastic tubing, purchase a length of silicone hose in case the plastic tube becomes unusable during the process.
😄👍
 
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Thanks very much @rotifer II. I was poised to follow your guide and so returned to the problem to stare at it and build myself up for further dismantling. I then figured out the remaining orange plastic dipstick collar trapped inside PA12 GF20 at the top of the rubber pipe was so brittle that I could get it out in pieces, careful not to stress the pipe, let anything get inside it or damage the surroundings. Once out, the new orange collar just clicked into place as it is chamfered to make fitting easy and removal hard. Hey presto! I think it's fixed, the dip stick slots in nicely with a reassuring solidity. Hopefully this repair has now fixed my excess air in the engine. Looking elsewhere (engine filler cap, oil filler tube) shows no sign of trouble. Though a smoke test by the garage may perhaps still be necessary if it persists.

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Do you think a good run in the car help get the fuel trims back to injecting less fuel if the leaks have been fixed? I think the trims are both probably maxed out, this problem was intermittent about a year ago, and then permanent after a lot of mileage. I'm driving off to get a clarinet fixed on Monday, (another troublesome black plastic pipe with air leaks), so wondering if a round trip of 50 miles on the dual carriageway might do the trick?
 
Scan and clear any DTCs before the drive. I'd expect fuel trims to sort themselves out quite quickly if all is well.
Scan again when you get home, 🤞
Mac.
 
Thanks @PlasticMac and @a-zwo. It's time I got myself a reader. Trawling the forum and beyond for what approach to take I came across this post from @PlasticMac in 2019 - does it remain your recommendation.

"VCDS Lite is free to use, won't damage your car, will give you error codes that are fully supported and widely understood. Online searches, using VCDS codes, especially the Rosstech wiki, will save pointless and expensive "suck it and see" parts replacement. Don't be put off by the doomsters, spend under £10 on an ebay lead, and you're good to go. The only caution being you must be able to install and configure the software on a laptop. The laptop does not need to anything special, mine's an 8 year old netbook. If your comfortable with this, it's the most useful tool in the box, it tells you what to do with the rest of the tools.
I've used it in anger twice, on my TT, both times it told me exactly what was wrong (coil pack & brake pressure sensor).
I agree, a registered copy has a risk, but you would spend £75 (cheapest option) upwards unless you knew what you were doing, wouldn't you? Mac."

I've an 2020 Apple MacBook. Read the VCDS Lite download page gives me the impression I need a PC, so perhaps I could install Windows 10 onto my Intel based Mac. Then I'd just need a OBD to USB cable like this one this one and to download the software from VCDS. The alternative is a self contained bit of kit, that's less informative but probably solves my short term issues more simply. I'd rather invest the time in better software, just not confident I've short listed the write ingredients of hard and software! Advice welcomed.
 
You can also use kw1281test which runs natively on Mac and it totally free. It is command line only for the minute but has the same features as 99$ VCDS and use the same ODB cable.

You need a KKL cable, not the one you showed. If you search for “KKL FTDI” you will get many results. It must not be ELM327. :)
 
a-zwo said:
You can also use kw1281test which runs natively on Mac and it totally free. It is command line only for the minute but has the same features as 99$ VCDS and use the same ODB cable.

You need a KKL cable, not the one you showed. If you search for “KKL FTDI” you will get many results. It must not be ELM327. :)
Click to expand...
With KW128, I guess you only get the output from the OBD port though, no label text etc?
Mac.
 
a-zwo said:
Not right now but it is easy to add
Click to expand...
Since both need the KKL/Gendan cable, and appropriate drivers, right now, the advantage goes to the free version of VCDS imo, for the User interface, at least.
For ordinary folk, anyway ...
Mac.
 
Thanks so much everyone. I've got the cable now - a "KKL OBD2 USB Interface Cable FTDI FT232RL Chip for 3rd Party Software & Apps" for £16.95. I've downloaded KW128 to my 2020 MacBook Pro, and clicked the download which opened up Terminal. It produced lots of lines of code, and then stopped. And this is where I am totally out of my depth. Because after that there's nothing else to do. I can't type a line of command for it to do anything else... I'm digging into my pre-teen memory of copying code from a book of games into my Acorn Electron with mostly underwhelming results, except for the ease of getting text scrolling across the screen flashing yellow and cyan!

Where's a good resource for finding out how to actually use KW128, for the totally novice with Terminal? It seems pitched at people a bit more able than me, and I may, as @PlasticMac highlights, be one of the ordinary folk who either needs a PC (to be able to use the free version of VCDS) or have to spend on something that's more plug and play.

By coincidence, when dropping off the broken clarinet to the repair man this morning it turned out he's also handy with cars too, so before heading back he plugged in his iCarSoft Diagnostic Tool FA V 2.0* which he uses for trouble shooting his 2007 Fiat campervan, and cleared the trim fault, which was the only one described of three counted and then cleared. Sadly, after driving for about an hour, with a couple of stops during that time, the engine error light is back on.

*This kit cost Mike £150. For woodwind repairs, saxophone session work, (and perhaps even car diagnostics reading) try the brilliant Mike Nottage in Saltash, Cornwall!
 
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