4 wheel alignment

philward

A2OC Donor
I'm about to fit the rear axle and noticed that the screws are much smaller than the holes in the axle mounts. Looks like I'm going to have to book a 4 wheel alignment. Manual says nothing about this, slightly frustrating as I have a set of pins that I could have used.
Anybody else experienced this? Is 4 wheel alignment my only option? Thank you.
IMG_6393.jpg
 
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audifan

A2OC Donor


And the dimensions


Although not all that helpful.
 

cheechy

A2OC Donor
Funnily enough I had both axle and clamps sand blasted and powder coated in anticipation of replacing both but I'm now tempted just to remove the long bolts and leave the old clamps in place to avoid this issue. I suspect I might try and paint them in situ but they aren't the easiest things to get to...
 

philward

A2OC Donor


And the dimensions


Although not all that helpful.
Thank you, that has confirmed another issue. If I fully torque the bolts I will need a new set. So they will be partially tightened and I will drive steadily to the nearest wheel alignment centre.
 

philward

A2OC Donor
Funnily enough I had both axle and clamps sand blasted and powder coated in anticipation of replacing both but I'm now tempted just to remove the long bolts and leave the old clamps in place to avoid this issue. I suspect I might try and paint them in situ but they aren't the easiest things to get to...
Also when my exhaust gives up, I will have to go through this again. With the benefit of this experience I will pin them.
 

spike

Well-Known Member
Any chance the 'witness mark' outlines of the old bracket locations are still visible on the floor pan.

I've not attempted this job but wondered if before removal a 'mist coat' sprayed carefully round the brackets would give a perfect outline when refitting the brackets. - And it would probably rub off with a rag soaked in thinners when the job is done

Unlike the factory fit part, think all replacement exhausts come in 2 pieces with a special joining sleeve

Cheers Spike
 

philward

A2OC Donor
Any chance the 'witness mark' outlines of the old bracket locations are still visible on the floor pan.

I've not attempted this job but wondered if before removal a 'mist coat' sprayed carefully round the brackets would give a perfect outline when refitting the brackets. - And it would probably rub off with a rag soaked in thinners when the job is done

Unlike the factory fit part, think all replacement exhausts come in 2 pieces with a special joining sleeve

Cheers Spike
No such luck Spike the suspension bush bracket attaches to an aluminium casting with three threaded protrusions which are themselves corroded. Very little good metal to investigate locations on. Good idea though.
 

audifan

A2OC Donor
If possible I try to mark around items that need to go back as they were with a white Dykem marker pen e.g. when removing the bolts for the glass window frames. I know absolutely zero help in your case, but just may help in the future. As you say fit it but not tight into the location it naturally fits. Make sure distance is pretty even side to side, then get it aligned. Do not know how far away the alignment shop is, but I would not be happy driving an untorqued now "live" axle far or fast. Can you get it trailered there, if not I would drop it off at night so it is there first thing for the shop.
 

philward

A2OC Donor
If possible I try to mark around items that need to go back as they were with a white Dykem marker pen e.g. when removing the bolts for the glass window frames. I know absolutely zero help in your case, but just may help in the future. As you say fit it but not tight into the location it naturally fits. Make sure distance is pretty even side to side, then get it aligned. Do not know how far away the alignment shop is, but I would not be happy driving an untorqued now "live" axle far or fast. Can you get it trailered there, if not I would drop it off at night so it is there first thing for the shop.
I'm going to set it with a tape measure, apply the initial torque but not the stretch twist then drive it there; about 5 miles. For others doing this job I have a fix, will post in a second or two.
 

philward

A2OC Donor
While torquing the through bush bolt I noticed a way to retain your factory set geometry. Remove the long through bush bolt both sides and drop the axle leaving the mounting brackets on the car. Factory geometry retained: but that won't help me unfortunately.
IMG_6406.jpg
 

audifan

A2OC Donor
Hindsight is a wonderful thing. Its right up there with sarcasm.
Perhaps one of you guys could make a guide to removing / refitting the rear beam and have it added to the "how to" section?
 

Robin_Cox

Member
That's me in the same boat as well - Scott's suggestion backed up by TPS having withdrawn the required bracket stretch bolts from sale a few weeks ago saved me from being in this situation as otherwise it would have just been dropped in entirety with all the follow-up alignment palaver probably about 3 weeks ago (the delay was the bracket bolts!). I'm hoping to get the entire rear axle re-done imminently - just a race between my local mechanic and my normal MOT place for who has first workshop availability now that everyone is getting MOTs done in a panic as the 6 month thing starts to bite.
 

audifan

A2OC Donor
From the manual page


Centralising toe setting at rear wheels
The total toe setting at the rear wheels cannot be adjusted.
The individual toe values can be centralised by moving the rear axle.

Slacken off bolts -arrows- at mounting brackets -1-.
2 - Axle beam
Centralise the individual toe settings by moving the mounting brackets.
Install new hexagon bolts and tighten.
If the total toe setting is outside the permitted tolerance, or if it is not possible to centralise the individual settings, the axle beam must be checked for damage and renewed if necessary.
 

audifan

A2OC Donor
Also from the manual

Load-bearing components and parts of the suspension or steering must not be welded or straightened.



Bonded rubber bushes can only be turned to a limited extent. The bolt connections on the suspension links should therefore only be tightened when the vehicle is standing on the ground.



If the wheel alignment has to be checked and adjusted at a later stage, all bolts and nuts which need to be slackened to make adjustments should initially only be tightened to the specified torque figure. After wheel alignment has been checked and adjusted, bolts and nuts must then be fully tightened by turning them through the specified angle.
 
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