A 2nd A2 for me - project FSI

It has been known that 7zap can be wrong but it is rare. In this instance it looks like the Audi pages look correct so my hunch is 8 o rings. I've got a complete FSI engine here so will look for you later this evening and see how many.
 
That will be brilliant, thanks. I’m holding off going any further.

Matt


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That will be brilliant, thanks. I’m holding off going any further.

Matt


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Hi Matt, i've had a look and no6 in the Audi diagram (injector) below

https://workshop-manuals.com/audi/a.../fuel_rail_pipe_with_high-pressure_injectors/

is currently in the head but parts 3 and 5 are missing so cannot see how many o rings would have been present sadly. My apologies for getting your hopes up.

But, ive just had a look on 7 ZAP to see if there is any light to shed on it, and came across the fuel rail part in the engine section which says 8 o rings.Hope that helps.

O ring part numbers 035 906 149 A according to the 7ZAP site for some reason i wasn't able to paste the numbered section on the right that says 8 o rings, it's there just have a look.
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Biggdogg, I am following this with much interest as I have just sent my injector of for cleaning(from a donor engine), and am awaiting their return...i also have my spre lower intake ready to b fitted too.
The company I am using say that they have filters and ceramics off the shelf, but I will need to buy the o rings from Audi....so thanks for the heads up on part numbers guys ?.
From what I recall there is one o ring at each end...but don't have them to hand to confirm....
Cheers
Clackers
 
I have just removed my injectors and there is one rubber o-ring at the lower manifold end inside the brass part so 4 in total. Part number 3 is the rubber o-ring. The picture in post 85 looks like a 1.4 injector.

50890
 
Squeaky,
Many thanks. If you pull the brass spacer out of the lower manifold I am hoping you find only one more o-ring, hence a total of 8?
This is how I’ve now put mine back together.
I’m getting quite close to being able to fire up the engine but I am planning on taking it gently, will leave the fuel pump fuse out, remove the spark plugs and whirl it on the starter until the oil pressure switch operates then put the plugs in and take set of compression measurements.
Matt


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I haven’t removed the brass spacer they seem quite tight I might just leave them alone. I bought the tool for replacing the Teflon seals and the seal kit and have refurbished the injectors myself.

When I did a compression check I was getting 160-170 with wide open throttle
 
Hi guys
Sorry to kind of hijack this post but you are working in the same area.
My own FSI is in the garage for the MOT.
It has the EML on and the fault is 17439 - Intake manifold tuning valve (N136) Set point not reached.

I would be very grateful if you had any advice. I understand many of the A2 people are on their way to Stanford Hall, so not expecting an quick answer.
Many thanks for your help.
 
Hi guys
Sorry to kind of hijack this post but you are working in the same area.
My own FSI is in the garage for the MOT.
It has the EML on and the fault is 17439 - Intake manifold tuning valve (N136) Set point not reached.

I would be very grateful if you had any advice. I understand many of the A2 people are on their way to Stanford Hall, so not expecting an quick answer.
Many thanks for your help.
Seems like the notorious FSI manifold flaps, here’s a recent discussion:

 
Captain059: one trick to tell the garage when re-assembling the lower intake manifold to the cylinder head: put a bit of stiff wire or a 3mm drill bit through the 2 holes in the actuator arm bracket and the single hole in the arm itself to hold the flaps in a middle position, that way there is no danger of the flaps being trapped and bent when the mating faces of the manifold and head are brought together. Once everything is bolted up, remove the drill bit or wire.
I used forte valve cleaner to clean out the carbon and try to free off the flap shaft but I wasn’t all that impressed with it TBH. I think paraffin or diesel would probably do just as good a job.
A friend recently used a similar product while the engine was running to try and clean the intake on his 2005 golf fsi. A few months later he discovered his first stage (NOx storage) cat had disintegrated and was blocking the 2nd cat. We suspect it melted due to the combustion of the cleaner.
Matt


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Little update:
Yesterday I refitted the driveshafts, wiping out the black moly grease from the ends of the inner driveshafts and replacing with fresh. In retrospect I should have fitted sandwich bags over them to stop grit getting in while the gearbox was out. There are rubber gaskets that fit in the driveshaft side of the joint. The torque spec for the 12point female spline screws is 2-stage: first 10Nm then second 40Nm.
Dodging showers, I also then refitted the left hand wishbone ball joint and droplink nuts. These are nylocs and should be renewed, but I suspect plenty of mechanics would re-use the old nut with thread-lock.
Next I refitted the starter and the bracket that carries some electrics and keeps one the radiator hoses out of the fan. I then spent a few minutes scratching my head trying to figure out how the hell the starter cover went on. I have deliberately left the pendulum mount/dig-bone off to give extra wiggle room. Fortunately just as I was “losing my rag” with it, it started raining again and just as it stopped it was time to swap to driving my other A2 in dad’s taxi mode.
Today, after consulting both workshop-manuals.com and also Elsawin, I’m pretty sure I know where that starter cover fixes on. Interestingly (to me!) I noticed the 2 information sources remove the engine in different ways: Elsawin to the front, whereas workshop-manuals.com seems to drop it out! I thought they were meant to be the same, I’ll have to check both in future for major jobs.

Maybe today or tomorrow I’ll get round to firing it up.

Matt


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Project FSI is a RUNNER.
WooHoo!

I couldn’t find my mate’s cylinder pressure gauge so no readings I’m afraid, but once I’d put the spark plugs and coils in the compression sound while cranking was an even speed, showing good balance. Once I replaced the fuel pump fuse (no.18) the engine spluttered into life.
NO FUEL LEAKS with only 8 o-rings. Thanks to all those who helped with that.
No oil leaks, no coolant leaks.
New clutch works beautifully.
Engine sounds sweet, a bit tappety at first but fine once it warmed up. No misfires and no EML for the time being.

I ran it several times up to temperature.

The MOT has expired and it is SORNed so I can’t take it out on the road yet, I’ve just driven it on the private land behind my house.

Problems:
1) The radiator fan controller has failed so it runs the fan as soon as the battery is connected. This has happened whilst it was sitting there, my neighbour said he heard the fan running one day, this was at the same time as I found out the battery was flat as a pancake.
2) The OSS has stuck, it is just ticking when you press the switch. This is frustrating as I cleaned and greased the rails as soon as I got it last year.

Still to do:
Wire up fog lights
Fit paper air filter (K&N currently)
Refit undertray
Pressure wash-it’s FILTHY
Take a closer look at the exhaust back box.
Book an MOT

Matt


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Congratulations :) I hope it's plain sailing from now through the MOT and back onto the road.

If it's the same as the one on the 1.4 BBY engine then I have the fan controller off my breaker available and I'm near to you (Leighton Buzzard / Chesham). PM me if you're interested.
 
PM sent to Proghound about the radiator fan controller (8Z0 959 501). I will try and fix this one tomorrow and let you know how I get on - long shot. I've figured out how to open it up. There has been water ingress. Probably my fault as I jet-washed the engine bay before the strip-down.

I've got the OSS to work tonight after driving it about gently over potholes to try and flex the body a bit and lots of on-off with the OSS switch. Initially it only ticked, then the front started moving but it stalled when opening the rear glass, raising maybe 2mm on the left but sticking on the right. more cycling of the switch and the rear glass eventually freed off too. It seems to be the actual rubberised seals to the body that are sticking. What is best to use to prevent the sticking?
There is still the horrible judder once it gets up to speed in the middle of the first stage of movement. It is possible to prevent this by stopping and starting every 2s or so, but I'd rather cure it. Cleaning and greasing the rails seemed to make no difference to this. Any advice?

Matt
 
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