A breaker restored!
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Birchall
Dick Chown Award 2016
That makes perfect sense and I totally agree (as can be seen on our Daughter's black one on my profile picture, they look GREAT on a black A2).
But they may do someone who is looking for a more subtle, OEM look?
But I will be able to offer a more standard option when the car eventually goes up for sale, I have some very nice 16s that may suit better.
Always nice to have options though.
Thanks
Steve B
Birchall
Dick Chown Award 2016
Latest update
Swapped the CCCU and now everything works as it should (alarm and Central locking problems disappeared) - Thanks for the CCU Wassap !!!
Just plugged it in and coded the key via VCDS and hey presto !!!
Fitted the replacement rear light cluster (there was a hole in one - I though that only happened on a Golf )
(thanks again Wassap!!!)
Replaced the broken mirror head on the passenger door (thanks yet again to Wassap for a perfect matching mirror)
I had bought a heated mirror glass on eBay but it was more hassle than I wanted. The connectors wouldn't go on tightly enough and they obstructed the plate that the mirror sticks to. I probably could have cut the plate but I can do without the hassle! I think I will try a different seller next time, or even Audi!!!
But while I had the doorskin off I noticed a problem. The cable from the inside door handle to the door lock was broken !!!
Never replaced one before so I did not know if it was a big job or not.
I went to Audi to order the cable and it was in stock an under £8 Another result!!!
It was obvious that the alloy interior door skin would have to come off, lots of screws !!
But I was worried about the window motor, that definitely had to come off too. But it was easy, just undoing the three screws and the motor can be pulled off (ingenious design I thought!!) The lugs can then be released by pinching the sides and the motor, mounting and mechanism are completely out of the way!
BUT was so disappointed when I got the alloy skin off, because the other end of the cable disappears into the heart of the lock and that is behind the main doorskin.
as you can see here
I didn't want to have to take the window frame out and remove the lock, because they have to be aligned properly when re-fitted, but it looked like I had no choice.
But I pushed the end of the inner cable that was left (just two inches left) and as it turned it just fell out !! Result, the reason being is that it is also cleverly designed and has a simple "T" shape that slots into the lever and that means that you DON'T have to get to the lock at all. Just manually raise the brass coloured lever (can be seen in the photo) and you will see the slot for the T peg. A little bit of fiddling and way you go !!!
A few minutes later, the door was fully assembled and job done!!!
Had a new windscreen fitted today too, because of the usual scratches from the wiper, this one had a 3" wide patch as well, right in vision, so it had to be replaced (£150 including fitting at home, not bad I suppose).
New wiper fitted and the arm twisted to get the required clearance to prevent further scratches and another job done.
Bonnet needed a re-spray, going matt and a scratch and small dent, so had a quote of £130 (again, not bad)
Focus is on MOT now, but I have the brake pad wear warning and the pad and connectors are fine, even joining the ends together doesn't get rid of it, so there must be a break in the loom. I will have a look tomorrow and that is one of the few warning lights that does not constitute a fail in the "improved" test. But I just want it fixed properly, not just shorted out anyway.
The engine light is on and indicating a Lambda sensor fault (pre-Cat) bought one on eBay that was titled (pre and post Cat) but it will fit post-Cat for the A2 and a different plug on the pre Cat one, so I need another one.
Once I have these little jobs done it is off to the MOT station and time for the fingers to be crossed again!!!
Watch this space!!
Steve B
Swapped the CCCU and now everything works as it should (alarm and Central locking problems disappeared) - Thanks for the CCU Wassap !!!
Just plugged it in and coded the key via VCDS and hey presto !!!
Fitted the replacement rear light cluster (there was a hole in one - I though that only happened on a Golf )
(thanks again Wassap!!!)Replaced the broken mirror head on the passenger door (thanks yet again to Wassap for a perfect matching mirror)
I had bought a heated mirror glass on eBay but it was more hassle than I wanted. The connectors wouldn't go on tightly enough and they obstructed the plate that the mirror sticks to. I probably could have cut the plate but I can do without the hassle! I think I will try a different seller next time, or even Audi!!!
But while I had the doorskin off I noticed a problem. The cable from the inside door handle to the door lock was broken !!!
Never replaced one before so I did not know if it was a big job or not.
I went to Audi to order the cable and it was in stock an under £8 Another result!!!
It was obvious that the alloy interior door skin would have to come off, lots of screws !!
But I was worried about the window motor, that definitely had to come off too. But it was easy, just undoing the three screws and the motor can be pulled off (ingenious design I thought!!) The lugs can then be released by pinching the sides and the motor, mounting and mechanism are completely out of the way!
BUT was so disappointed when I got the alloy skin off, because the other end of the cable disappears into the heart of the lock and that is behind the main doorskin.
as you can see here
I didn't want to have to take the window frame out and remove the lock, because they have to be aligned properly when re-fitted, but it looked like I had no choice.
But I pushed the end of the inner cable that was left (just two inches left) and as it turned it just fell out !! Result, the reason being is that it is also cleverly designed and has a simple "T" shape that slots into the lever and that means that you DON'T have to get to the lock at all. Just manually raise the brass coloured lever (can be seen in the photo) and you will see the slot for the T peg. A little bit of fiddling and way you go !!!
A few minutes later, the door was fully assembled and job done!!!
Had a new windscreen fitted today too, because of the usual scratches from the wiper, this one had a 3" wide patch as well, right in vision, so it had to be replaced (£150 including fitting at home, not bad I suppose).
New wiper fitted and the arm twisted to get the required clearance to prevent further scratches and another job done.
Bonnet needed a re-spray, going matt and a scratch and small dent, so had a quote of £130 (again, not bad)
Focus is on MOT now, but I have the brake pad wear warning and the pad and connectors are fine, even joining the ends together doesn't get rid of it, so there must be a break in the loom. I will have a look tomorrow and that is one of the few warning lights that does not constitute a fail in the "improved" test. But I just want it fixed properly, not just shorted out anyway.
The engine light is on and indicating a Lambda sensor fault (pre-Cat) bought one on eBay that was titled (pre and post Cat) but it will fit post-Cat for the A2 and a different plug on the pre Cat one, so I need another one.
Once I have these little jobs done it is off to the MOT station and time for the fingers to be crossed again!!!
Watch this space!!
Steve B
Last edited:
Birchall
Dick Chown Award 2016
Popped the ugly wheels on eBay a few minutes ago as an auction starting at £50, it looks like they are not ugly to everyone, had lots of hits and a few people asking for a buy it now price!!!
The Lambda sensor is proving to be an expensive item, cheapest I have seen so far is £140, a post-cat Lambda is as cheap as £30, why is it always the expensive one that breaks.
I have a few options though, good old Wassap has one and I have an option on one with the manifold as well.
Gave the interior a bit of a clean (not done the leather yet though) it is coming up nicely.
Annoyed by the brake pad warning light, I have somehow got to trace the wires through the loom, that is a job for when I have some patience!!!
May take it for the MOT next week, just to see what it will fail on, I am always a pessimist, that way I am never disappointed !!!!
Steve B
The Lambda sensor is proving to be an expensive item, cheapest I have seen so far is £140, a post-cat Lambda is as cheap as £30, why is it always the expensive one that breaks.
I have a few options though, good old Wassap has one and I have an option on one with the manifold as well.
Gave the interior a bit of a clean (not done the leather yet though) it is coming up nicely.
Annoyed by the brake pad warning light, I have somehow got to trace the wires through the loom, that is a job for when I have some patience!!!
May take it for the MOT next week, just to see what it will fail on, I am always a pessimist, that way I am never disappointed !!!!
Steve B
Birchall
Dick Chown Award 2016
Update
Had a play with the Cruise control and DIS conversion.
The cruise went OK, The tricky part was getting the loom to the floor box to connect to the ECU. I tried to do it without removing the plastic side of the gearbox tunnel at first (just wasn't sure how to get the plastic off and didn't want to break it. But in the end I just gritted my teeth and used a bit of force and it eventually came off, so routing the loom was easy. Still haven't connected the wiring to the ECU, I want to take my time and do it correctly. I have triple checked the pins I need to use for each of the 4 wires (the correct ones for the 1.4 petrol).
But the stalks are mounted and connected (both the cruise and the DIS stalks) got them from eBay at £15 the pair (off a TT)
Now the bad news (for me) the DIS cluster I bought is the type for the later fuel sender. The cluster was manufactured in May 2002 and so I thought it would be for the early sender, but the tank is nearly full and reads empty and so I can't use the cluster.
I suppose that I could convert the fuel pump and sender though? Not sure where the extra wire would have to connect to, but I have heard that is an option.
Failing that it is another search for a DIS cluster.
Shame really, because the DIS worked as it should and was really easy to convert.
If anyone wants to buy the cluster for their post 2002 1.4 petrol, the I will sell it on for (as usual) no profit. So £35 for a DIS cluster is a bit of a bargain.
Also just did a trial fit of the A6 (early) MFSW, just to ensure that it fits ok and that the airbag is the same as the A2.
Fits perfectly well and the airbag connection is identical.
Looks like quite a job to make the electrical connections etc. I am ok with electrics, but this would need a loom and controller to be sorted, so not for me.
So again, I will sell the A6 MFSW to anyone on here that wants it for what I paid for it (£35).
All in all it has been VERY interesting trying these mods, it will help me a lot when I start my "special" project (looks like end of January for that project)
Still haven't managed to trace the break in the Pad Wear warning loom.
Will focus on the MOT now.
Cheers
Steve B
Had a play with the Cruise control and DIS conversion.
The cruise went OK, The tricky part was getting the loom to the floor box to connect to the ECU. I tried to do it without removing the plastic side of the gearbox tunnel at first (just wasn't sure how to get the plastic off and didn't want to break it. But in the end I just gritted my teeth and used a bit of force and it eventually came off, so routing the loom was easy. Still haven't connected the wiring to the ECU, I want to take my time and do it correctly. I have triple checked the pins I need to use for each of the 4 wires (the correct ones for the 1.4 petrol).
But the stalks are mounted and connected (both the cruise and the DIS stalks) got them from eBay at £15 the pair (off a TT)
Now the bad news (for me) the DIS cluster I bought is the type for the later fuel sender. The cluster was manufactured in May 2002 and so I thought it would be for the early sender, but the tank is nearly full and reads empty and so I can't use the cluster.
I suppose that I could convert the fuel pump and sender though? Not sure where the extra wire would have to connect to, but I have heard that is an option.
Failing that it is another search for a DIS cluster.
Shame really, because the DIS worked as it should and was really easy to convert.
If anyone wants to buy the cluster for their post 2002 1.4 petrol, the I will sell it on for (as usual) no profit. So £35 for a DIS cluster is a bit of a bargain.
Also just did a trial fit of the A6 (early) MFSW, just to ensure that it fits ok and that the airbag is the same as the A2.
Fits perfectly well and the airbag connection is identical.
Looks like quite a job to make the electrical connections etc. I am ok with electrics, but this would need a loom and controller to be sorted, so not for me.
So again, I will sell the A6 MFSW to anyone on here that wants it for what I paid for it (£35).
All in all it has been VERY interesting trying these mods, it will help me a lot when I start my "special" project (looks like end of January for that project)
Still haven't managed to trace the break in the Pad Wear warning loom.
Will focus on the MOT now.
Cheers
Steve B
Last edited:
Birchall
Dick Chown Award 2016
Hi,
Spent yesterday "playing" with the mods as mentioned above.
Just to recap, the two mods (Cruise and DIS retrofit) and very different.
The DIS retrofit is something that I would say most DIYers could do (if you can find the right instrument cluster that is)
The loom is simplicity itself. This loom is only needed to connect the DIS stalk to the centre plug of the DIS dash.
One thing that takes extreme care is the handling of the airbag removal, disconnect the battery, wait for a while for it to fully discharge and only then try to disconnect the air bag, but treat it like an unexploded bomb!!!!
With the right instrument cluster the change is straightforward and just leaves you with the need to get the dealer to do the final swap and coding of the immobiliser / keys (cannot be done via VCDS).
You will then have a working DIS, BUT you will need to earth out the relevant wires / pins for the washer low sender and the "bulb failure" connection. You can, of course live with the messages but they will drive you crazy.
The final step would be to correct the milometer, although the dealer will almost certainly record the swap on the service history.
BUT, if you are thinking of doing the Cruise Control yourself, then my strong recommendation is DON'T!!!
The mechanical swap is straightforward enough (again using extreme caution when handling the air bag), it is probably best to try and do both stalks at the same time (DIS and Cruise).
The electrical bit is best left to someone with experience, the routing of the loom, let alone the connections, is vital to ensure no rubbing etc.
But the connections are something else. It is easy enough to figure out what pin numbers you need to connect the wires to, but have you seen the "spaghetti" of wires entering the ECU? Let alone the fact that even if you can see the right pin positions, you need to know which way around the pins go into the vacant positions. The pins have a retaining tab on one side and nobody tells you which way up the pin has to be when you insert it!!! get that wrong and you may find it jammed, or worse still you might damage the pin, and where are you going to find a replacement!!
Even if you manage to get the right pins into the right positions and the right way up, have you seen the fuse box? You now have to connect the other wire (the main power feed) into the back of the fuse box into position 31 !!! Good luck, you will need it !!!
So please visit Mike (Skipton) or Sarge etc. or someone who has experience of the cruise control retrofit, don't do it yourself !!!!!
Started to tackle the leather, bought a deep cleaning leather kit from eBay, tried it on 2 seats and it worked very well, you even get a conditioner that conditions (not surprisingly) the leather, but what I like about it is that the stuff restores the SMELL of the leather too!!!!!!
Tomorrow I will be tackling the throttle body. The tickover (idle) is lumpy occasionally and there are no errors on VCDS (now that I have replaced the pre-cat lambda sensor) so a deep clean of the throttle body should resolve that slight problem.
The bonnet is with the sprayer having a tiny dent and tiny scratch sorted and a repaint.
Looks like I will have to take it to the MOT test with the brake pad warning light still on, I am just not quite ready to start attacking the loom to find the break!!!
The front speakers had stopped working, but I narrowed that down to a tweeter shorting out (good old VCDS indicated that exact cause), problem solved!!!
Looks like I may be selling this car soon, for a low price, I won't be connecting the cruise, but the stalk is on (as is the DIS stalk)
The DIS is wired and just needs the right instrument cluster to be sourced.
So the car will be running properly, 12 months MOT, working OSS, really nice leather, double DIN. 123K miles
But fully serviced (and reasonably full service history), new valves x8, two new injectors (£250 !!!!) Cambelt (full kit including waterpump etc.) Brand new tyres, Avus alloys (look ok but need a refurb) New rear brakeshoes, bodywork is very good anyway.
Opinions on the minimum value would be welcome, remember not wanting to profit from this.
Costs are in the region of £1,900 or more (including the car of course) minus £200 that I have managed to get for those horrible wheels!! so £1,700 ish.
I will see what the MOT finds and if all is well I may set the price at £1,700 o.v.n.o.
Thoughts, opinions and comments welcome.
Steve B
Spent yesterday "playing" with the mods as mentioned above.
Just to recap, the two mods (Cruise and DIS retrofit) and very different.
The DIS retrofit is something that I would say most DIYers could do (if you can find the right instrument cluster that is)
The loom is simplicity itself. This loom is only needed to connect the DIS stalk to the centre plug of the DIS dash.
One thing that takes extreme care is the handling of the airbag removal, disconnect the battery, wait for a while for it to fully discharge and only then try to disconnect the air bag, but treat it like an unexploded bomb!!!!
With the right instrument cluster the change is straightforward and just leaves you with the need to get the dealer to do the final swap and coding of the immobiliser / keys (cannot be done via VCDS).
You will then have a working DIS, BUT you will need to earth out the relevant wires / pins for the washer low sender and the "bulb failure" connection. You can, of course live with the messages but they will drive you crazy.
The final step would be to correct the milometer, although the dealer will almost certainly record the swap on the service history.
BUT, if you are thinking of doing the Cruise Control yourself, then my strong recommendation is DON'T!!!
The mechanical swap is straightforward enough (again using extreme caution when handling the air bag), it is probably best to try and do both stalks at the same time (DIS and Cruise).
The electrical bit is best left to someone with experience, the routing of the loom, let alone the connections, is vital to ensure no rubbing etc.
But the connections are something else. It is easy enough to figure out what pin numbers you need to connect the wires to, but have you seen the "spaghetti" of wires entering the ECU? Let alone the fact that even if you can see the right pin positions, you need to know which way around the pins go into the vacant positions. The pins have a retaining tab on one side and nobody tells you which way up the pin has to be when you insert it!!! get that wrong and you may find it jammed, or worse still you might damage the pin, and where are you going to find a replacement!!
Even if you manage to get the right pins into the right positions and the right way up, have you seen the fuse box? You now have to connect the other wire (the main power feed) into the back of the fuse box into position 31 !!! Good luck, you will need it !!!
So please visit Mike (Skipton) or Sarge etc. or someone who has experience of the cruise control retrofit, don't do it yourself !!!!!
Started to tackle the leather, bought a deep cleaning leather kit from eBay, tried it on 2 seats and it worked very well, you even get a conditioner that conditions (not surprisingly) the leather, but what I like about it is that the stuff restores the SMELL of the leather too!!!!!!
Tomorrow I will be tackling the throttle body. The tickover (idle) is lumpy occasionally and there are no errors on VCDS (now that I have replaced the pre-cat lambda sensor) so a deep clean of the throttle body should resolve that slight problem.
The bonnet is with the sprayer having a tiny dent and tiny scratch sorted and a repaint.
Looks like I will have to take it to the MOT test with the brake pad warning light still on, I am just not quite ready to start attacking the loom to find the break!!!
The front speakers had stopped working, but I narrowed that down to a tweeter shorting out (good old VCDS indicated that exact cause), problem solved!!!
Looks like I may be selling this car soon, for a low price, I won't be connecting the cruise, but the stalk is on (as is the DIS stalk)
The DIS is wired and just needs the right instrument cluster to be sourced.
So the car will be running properly, 12 months MOT, working OSS, really nice leather, double DIN. 123K miles
But fully serviced (and reasonably full service history), new valves x8, two new injectors (£250 !!!!) Cambelt (full kit including waterpump etc.) Brand new tyres, Avus alloys (look ok but need a refurb) New rear brakeshoes, bodywork is very good anyway.
Opinions on the minimum value would be welcome, remember not wanting to profit from this.
Costs are in the region of £1,900 or more (including the car of course) minus £200 that I have managed to get for those horrible wheels!! so £1,700 ish.
I will see what the MOT finds and if all is well I may set the price at £1,700 o.v.n.o.
Thoughts, opinions and comments welcome.
Steve B
Last edited:
spartacus 68
Member
Excellent thread. Another A2 saved for the nation!
Birchall
Dick Chown Award 2016
Thanks,
Had a day off today, but spent yesterday cleaning and polishing the car. The glass needed "T Cutting" to get it up to scratch (no pun intended!)
The beauty of polishing a car is that you get to see every scratch and dent, the nice thing was that there really weren't any of any significance.
It came up really well.
I also managed to bypass the brake pad warning error, there is a break in the wiring between the inner wing and the sensor (as usual)
A repair loom should sort it properly, but at least the dash is now clear of all codes.
It was not an MOT fail, but first impressions are important and a car that is dirty and has warning codes doesn't give a good impression.
So as soon as the bonnet comes back from the sprayer it will be going for an MOT.
I will be looking for a quick sale, because I will be working away from home for a while.
Ordered a few more parts from Wassap, interior mirror (I suspect the screen fitter broke it!), two cup holders (both broken somehow!) and a few carpet fittings etc.
Waiting for a new set of carpets from eBay (and a door check strap for my wife's car, now it is windy)
Still trying to resolve the lumpy running when cold and the revs are at around 1200, will clean the throttle body next (fitted new plugs just in case)
Next news may well be the result of the MOT (pass hopefully)
Steve B
Birchall
Dick Chown Award 2016
Hi,
Been busy again today.
The mysterious lumpy running has now GONE!!!
Had another clean of the throttle body area (in the manifold under the throttle body, especially where the pipe from the EGR enters.)
Recalibrated the throttle and left it running for a while.
Started from cold and ran perfectly with no sign of any lumpy running at any rev range and it drove really well, very smooth and plenty of power (for the 1.4 petrol engine that is).
Got the bonnet back from the spray shop and a great match and no dent or scratch (of course)
Finished off treating the leather and it has come up a treat!!!!
Cleaned the carpets and rest of the trim and it is now looking really good.
So as long as the MOT goes well, the car will be up for sale ONLY on here first at slightly less than cost and someone will get a nice, well specced car with some other extras that can be finished off easily enough (the cruise and DIS)
I will try to get a slot at the MOT station tomorrow.
Fingers crossed time again!!!
Steve B
Been busy again today.
The mysterious lumpy running has now GONE!!!
Had another clean of the throttle body area (in the manifold under the throttle body, especially where the pipe from the EGR enters.)
Recalibrated the throttle and left it running for a while.
Started from cold and ran perfectly with no sign of any lumpy running at any rev range and it drove really well, very smooth and plenty of power (for the 1.4 petrol engine that is).
Got the bonnet back from the spray shop and a great match and no dent or scratch (of course)
Finished off treating the leather and it has come up a treat!!!!
Cleaned the carpets and rest of the trim and it is now looking really good.
So as long as the MOT goes well, the car will be up for sale ONLY on here first at slightly less than cost and someone will get a nice, well specced car with some other extras that can be finished off easily enough (the cruise and DIS)
I will try to get a slot at the MOT station tomorrow.
Fingers crossed time again!!!
Steve B
Birchall
Dick Chown Award 2016
Birchall
Dick Chown Award 2016
Took it for its MOT !!!
Failed !!
But I am happy, it was just a broken front spring. It sounded like a seized top mount to me at first but while it was up on the ramp I could see that the spring was broken.
To me that is a result!!! A lot more things could have been wrong, you never can tell until you take it for the MOT.
Unfortunately the battery is going flat and it is brand new, so it is the alternator (The VCDS check showed just over 11V at high revs)
So that is a bit expensive, but that will be it, fully back on the road when those last two jobs are done.
So I have listed it in the cars for sale section, I really don't want to sell it outside of the A2OC if possible.
Total cost is just over £2,000 and so I will take a small hit on this one too.
£1,800. Not cheap for a 2001 1.4 petrol, but it is an SE (most are though aren't they) and it has a good spec.
http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthrea...eat-little-A2-rescued-and-now-for-sale-£1-800
As this is a hobby I don't mind losing a little bit, I have had the pleasure of bringing this one back to life after all!!!!
Steve B
Failed !!
But I am happy, it was just a broken front spring. It sounded like a seized top mount to me at first but while it was up on the ramp I could see that the spring was broken.
To me that is a result!!! A lot more things could have been wrong, you never can tell until you take it for the MOT.
Unfortunately the battery is going flat and it is brand new, so it is the alternator (The VCDS check showed just over 11V at high revs)
So that is a bit expensive, but that will be it, fully back on the road when those last two jobs are done.
So I have listed it in the cars for sale section, I really don't want to sell it outside of the A2OC if possible.
Total cost is just over £2,000 and so I will take a small hit on this one too.
£1,800. Not cheap for a 2001 1.4 petrol, but it is an SE (most are though aren't they) and it has a good spec.
http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthrea...eat-little-A2-rescued-and-now-for-sale-£1-800
As this is a hobby I don't mind losing a little bit, I have had the pleasure of bringing this one back to life after all!!!!
Steve B
Birchall
Dick Chown Award 2016
I wouldnt say 2k is out of the question for a car with working OSS and leather, not to mention those wheels. Ive got a cheap alternator if you want
Hi,
Yes, you are right about the price, but I don't want full price for it, at least not from a member.
Thanks for the offer of the alternator, but I prefer new for things like that, one of my "pet hates" is a flat battery, it always leaves you stranded in the cold and wet!
I am sure that yours will be up to the job and if I was keeping the car I would have opted for that, but as I am selling it I don't want any problems for the new owner!
Cheers
Steve B
Birchall
Dick Chown Award 2016
Hi Tom,
No need for anyone to be worried about that, I decided against the "for small profit" venture and now it really is just a hobby.
So I really am not worried as long as it goes to a good home, as I said I enjoyed bring it back to life and learned a lot more in the process.
I would have spent more than £200 on any other hobbies by now anyway!
So if I get £1,800, (especially for a quick sale) I will be very happy.
Steve B
Birchall
Dick Chown Award 2016
Hi,
Another update
Fitted a new temperature sender (just to make sure)
The replacement front cup holders arrived from Wassap, along with the rear view mirror, harder to replace than I thought, but only because this was my first time.
Just needed to take out the radio, remove the two screws and the centre vent is removed and the cup holders slot into place.
Ordered two new springs and the alternator.
Mt friendly mechanic will be fitting these and talking it for the retest next week (my time is now limited since I have started a new contract away from home!!)
New carpets will be fitted and that is it.
The potential new owner is not a fan of a Leather interior and so might be looking for a deal with someone with a black interior, also may want to do a deal with the wheels for some standard 16s. So let me know if this would be of interest and I will pass on the details.
If the weather is kinder tomorrow I may be able to post some "after" shots.
More news next week.
Steve B
Another update
Fitted a new temperature sender (just to make sure)
The replacement front cup holders arrived from Wassap, along with the rear view mirror, harder to replace than I thought, but only because this was my first time.
Just needed to take out the radio, remove the two screws and the centre vent is removed and the cup holders slot into place.
Ordered two new springs and the alternator.
Mt friendly mechanic will be fitting these and talking it for the retest next week (my time is now limited since I have started a new contract away from home!!)
New carpets will be fitted and that is it.
The potential new owner is not a fan of a Leather interior and so might be looking for a deal with someone with a black interior, also may want to do a deal with the wheels for some standard 16s. So let me know if this would be of interest and I will pass on the details.
If the weather is kinder tomorrow I may be able to post some "after" shots.
More news next week.
Steve B
Birchall
Dick Chown Award 2016
Hi,
Some "After shots", They say the camera never lies, but cars always look better than they are in photographs, but it hasn't lied as such (perhaps a little fib?) It is certainly presentable, but a few small scrapes etc. No worse than most 2001 A2s, but the matt black around the skirts etc. could do with a repaint,
One of the boot shots shows the mounting for the spacesaver wheel (I don't have the wheel or the mounting nut, but the bracket is there.
Steve B
Some "After shots", They say the camera never lies, but cars always look better than they are in photographs, but it hasn't lied as such (perhaps a little fib?) It is certainly presentable, but a few small scrapes etc. No worse than most 2001 A2s, but the matt black around the skirts etc. could do with a repaint,
One of the boot shots shows the mounting for the spacesaver wheel (I don't have the wheel or the mounting nut, but the bracket is there.
Steve B
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