A Guide to the A2's Boot and Rear Seats

Very interesting to see all the options covered. My (secondhand) 2004 five-seater doesn't have the false floor, however - no rails, nothing - was this an option that had to be specified at purchase?
 
Very interesting to see all the options covered. My (secondhand) 2004 five-seater doesn't have the false floor, however - no rails, nothing - was this an option that had to be specified at purchase?

It was only fitted as standard to the SE spec cars. Not sure whether it was a tickable option on other models but I'm assuming so because I've had sport models with a false floor.
 
Hi,

I've given the rear seat (I've the split version) a good deep wash and it has been left pretty wet in not good drying conditions. To help the drying I've removed the two seats from the car and brought them inside.

The removal process ends up with both seats fully folded which isn't helping the drying process. I've tried all the catches to try and open the back no avail. I did find an online workshop manual reference to pushing a catch until it clicks

http://workshop-manuals.com/audi/a2...eater)/releasing_rear_seat_following_removal/

Also for the 5 seat version

http://workshop-manuals.com/audi/a2...eater)/releasing_rear_seat_following_removal/

this catch is in the circular locating springs - you need to push both catches per seat down then push the seat back down onto the squab then it releases upwards. There are no instructions for doing this in the manual and Audi UK were no help when I called so I'm posting this in case anyone else needs to open up the seat after removing them. The manual advises not to open the seats beyond their normal (in place) angle as it can damage the trim.
 
I am not quite sure if you want help or just posting the link for others.

In case you cannot release the seat I have a memory of someone sitting the seat on two large upturned sockets to mimic the holes in the floor.

Andy
 
Just get one reasonably large socket that you can place over the pins on the bottom. Press each pin down until it clicks and the “ball bearings” can be seen. Do this to both on each seat and they will then open fully. This simulates the seats being locked into the floor.

Steve B
 
I got them open thanks, just posting if someone else has the same issue. I found I could push the catches down by hand.
 
Hi. Im new to all this. I have that seat problem too, but on top of it all thoes seats gets soaking wet in wet weather. Could it be related to seats not being locked in to the place?
 
Hi. Im new to all this. I have that seat problem too, but on top of it all thoes seats gets soaking wet in wet weather. Could it be related to seats not being locked in to the place?
No, likely to be the vents behind the bumper (unless you have OSS?).
 
Hi, newbie here, can anyone tell me the distance between the rear sill and the back of the front seats with the rear seats removed. I'd like to know if I can get an item that is 3ft in length in?
 
Hi, newbie here, can anyone tell me the distance between the rear sill and the back of the front seats with the rear seats removed. I'd like to know if I can get an item that is 3ft in length in?

Hi Squeaky ... just measured ... 52 inches in mine with the back seats out and 42 inches with the back seats left in and rolled forward.
 
Blimey that's a surprise is it a Tardis?
I actually need 38 inches so plenty of room.

Thanks very much
 
Blimey that's a surprise is it a Tardis?
I actually need 38 inches so plenty of room.

Thanks very much

You're welcome Squeaky ... I've had a complete bathroom refurb in the back of mine ... suite, shower tray, floor and wall tiles and adhesive with the glass shower door on the roof bars o_Oo_Oo_O
 
Yes it's a Tardis

A2 and Chair.jpg

Could have got 2 in!
 
I've had two complete drum kits in the back of my A2. Two kick drums, four rack toms, two floor toms, two snare drums, two full sets of cymbals, hi-hats, all the metal hardware, the stools, etc. It is unbelievable how much stuff you can get in the back of an A2 with the rear seats removed.
I can't play the drums for toffee, by the way; I was just moving them between recording studios. The guy from whom I was collecting the drum kits was shaking his head when I rolled up in my A2. You should've seen his face as the A2 swallowed the lot! :)
 
Waiting for my MOT test to be completed, I wandered over to the adjacent VW garage forecourt to see what was on offer. Salesman soon came out and asked if he could help. I explained that I was looking out for a vehicle as capacious as the A2 with the seats removed. Passat Estate was his response!
Mark
 
I've had two complete drum kits in the back of my A2. Two kick drums, four rack toms, two floor toms, two snare drums, two full sets of cymbals, hi-hats, all the metal hardware, the stools, etc. It is unbelievable how much stuff you can get in the back of an A2 with the rear seats removed.
I can't play the drums for toffee, by the way; I was just moving them between recording studios. The guy from whom I was collecting the drum kits was shaking his head when I rolled up in my A2. You should've seen his face as the A2 swallowed the lot! :)

Hi Tom ... maybe a good subject for a new thread ... what is the most unusual stuff transported in the back of an A2 :D
 
An important safety note to new and old A2 owners alike - it's entirely possible for the rear seats to be replaced WITHOUT the locating pins in the seat base(s) engaging with the car's chassis. This means that the seats will only be secured by hinges at the front of the seat, and the catch on the seat back, which could seriously compromise safety in an accident.

My rear seats appeared to be installed straight and true after a recent removal, however when diagnosing a metallic clunking from the rear today, I noticed that the seats could be folded and tilted simply by releasing the seat-back catch. THIS SHOULD NOT HAPPEN - it should only be possible to tilt the seat AFTER pulling the grab handle on the base.

To avoid this, when replacing the seat, please make sure that the pins in the rear of the seat base CLICK into place by leaning on the front of the folded seat while pulling the grab handle. If you don't get a click which secures the entire seat base onto the chassis, it's better to check back on this forum than to replace the seat in an unsafe position.

I'd recommend the above as one of the first safety checks for anyone buying an A2, as it would be all too easy not to know..
 
I have a rear NS seat that refuses to unlock from the floor and the OS one that refuses to lock to the floor and .... I NEED SERIOUS HELP.
As it's several weeks into Covid Lock-Down and I've run out of domestic jobs I can do, because I can't get materials, I thought I'd have a crack at the seats.
I've read all the various threads... including the Ultimate stuck seat thread... and thought it'd be a breeze. Wrong!
I tentatively tried to free the "locked-in seat" (NS) by removing the OS seat and using stout lengths of wood to put pressure against the hinge corner of the seat by bracing the wood against the opposite side of the car body... then jumped all over the damned thing while pulling the release handle. Flat pry-bars inserted in various locations and other locations threatened with a large rubber mallet.... nothing.
I'm no mechanic but a lifetime of joinery a related construction work has built up a fair degree of problem solving skill, and having a large shed/workshop, bench, vice, masses of tools... all helps.
So I thought I'd try the seat (OS... unlocked) I could lift out and learn on that one... in the shed.

The floor pins seemed to be stuck in "locked" mode... with the spring sitting tight against/above the three ball-bearings. No amount of cajoling with release handle or pliers on the balls would get these stuck ball-bearings to retract and release tension on the springs; in fact there was very little movement of the plastic release handle. So I detached the back of the seat base fabric, pushed it under the bottom of the backrest and a few inches further forward, exposing the mechanism to view. The view of the business ends of the swivel-rod the release handle actuates was obscured by the plastic trims at both ends, so I removed those too. This gave me good visuals on the interlocking pairs of toothed cams at either end of the rod, which were the in good order and still properly connected to the angled bracket that they use to lift the internal mechanism of the location pins.

It seems the only parts you can't get visuals on (or take apart) are the bullet shaped locating pins themselves, and it seems that that is where my problem lies, because....
I got a flat spanner onto one end (seat belt buckle end) of the rod where it changes in profile from cylindical to a squarish lump and (with judicious amounts of WD-40) gradually coaxed some movement out of the whole assembly. Eventually, pressing fully down on the spanner... burying it deep down between seat and belt buckle... I got the ball-bearings to retract and the spring loaded collars on those bullet-pins pinged down into release mode.
So, figuring the prob lay within the bullet-pins themselves, I loaded them with WD-40 and left the seat on the bench for the night.
But next day there was no improvement. Despite movement on the release handle feeling much greater (though probably still not easy for anyone other than an almost 15 stone man) it would still not release the bullet-pins out of locked mode. For this reason. I am reluctant to re-install the seat in case the mechanism has now become free enough to allow the pins to lock (if I jump on the seat) but not free enough to unlock. Seats stuck in the car are of course harder to work on.

So I'm thinking that the problem HAS TO BE wear/gunge/rust in the bullet-pins and I'm now tempted to strip down the seat... again... and removing the bullet-pins... which can only be done, with difficulty, from the inside. Are they available from Audi?
Maybe I've just got this all wrong, and my powers of logic and problem-solving are waning.

HELP!
 
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