A Polo that won't rust :)

Thanks for the replies, but I believe this is an intermittent fault with the actuation, not the flaps themselves, like I say it seems to occasionally miss actuation - as with the test that was run. Possibly an electrical issue, possibly the actuator itself not being 100%.

The flaps never see the high pressure fuel, they are downstream of them, but the difference in the curve at the end is likely to do with being repeated slapped against the plate in the intake, which will after years start to exaggerate that bend. So they may close slightly further.

The EML hasn't come on for the problem yet, it's intermittent. I'll drive it some more and see where we are. I'm more annoyed by the NOX sensor. I'll need to find out what's going on there, maybe a bad connection, but I'll need to get under it to have a look first.

I despise this engine. I should have listened to people who told me not to buy it, it's got a terrible reputation in the Golf too. The 1.4 was the better choice. If this was a 1.4 it would be error free and running like a dream, and would continue to do so for years.
 
TDI TDI TDI TDI...!

There’s one in Blairgowrie for £895 on Gumtree.

Or a 1.4 petrol near Glasgow Green. Although possible oil/water mix? Head gasket maybe and the price doesn’t reflect that.

Come on. Be seduced and fix up a TDI next...


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Diesel is the devil's fuel. 1.4 petrol all the way, I'd prefer one that didn't have a knackered head gasket! :D

I'll see how we get on with this FSI...
 
Not many have owned all 3 of these engine types and are able to give a fair appraisal. All the A2 engines are excellent at what they do however the 1.6 fsi is the daddy of them all being the most powerful in standard form. It's an absolute flyer even with a tiny throttle, when running right, the slightest caress of the pedal it pulls so well up inclines even fully loaded.

The recent welsh tour showed that, just after we had the flaps done injector and a full service, you don't loose speed going up these hills and no need to add pedal to maintain present speed unless going up really steep stuff. Ours drove well enough with the eml light on when we first got it but now fully sorted it's much better and we're really very happy with it. I remember earlier in the thread you mentioned that this engine wasn't as cultured as you thought it might be from an Audi. I agreed at the time you mentioned it upstairs in the old grey matter, however since ours has been fully sorted that induction growl you get on anything but a light pedal has now disappeared much further up the rpm scale. I can accelerate quickly now without any growl on a light pedal, any further prod on the pedal to induce the growl your going for a 0-60 time and you'll likely be above the speed limit anyway.

I read on the net a few nights ago that these engines don't like to be driven like grandma does, personally we are guilty of this, otherwise they coke up. You have to use WOT to 6k rpms once a week to clear it out. I tried this and the difference is marked, yet more power and an even more efficient engine and smooth at those rpms. What i'm trying to say is when running right they sing and are a joy to drive. We have the 1.4 petrol as well that's another story read my thread, it lacks low down torque but is a very sweet revving lump which you learn to drive it accordingly and we don't mind watching paint dry lol, only joking it's no way near as bad as that. If the fsi didn't have the growl on full pedal it would win for me, as i'm used to that 80 V6 turbine smoothness ;) , so i'm torn between them both. :p
 
Well that’s what’s I’m used to also. Have an 80 cab with a V6 and an S8 with the V8, so going back to a 4 pot takes a bit of getting used to!

I’m not discounting it yet, drove the car today again and it seems fairly happy, it’s less guff than it was and I have given it a good dose of foot to the floor a few times.

It does seem to now run fine. It works well on the motorway and all the lumpiness it had before is gone.

I think the stratified mode will remove most of the intake gruffness on lower revs and power.

If it was for me I’d have already had the engine out and wasted far more time getting every ounce of power and making it perfect, but it’s for an in-law who will grandad drive it! The 1.4 would have been more than enough for him.
 
A2Steve has posted this evening a FSI NOX sensor for sale, just under £50, used of course.
Maybe an option to consider.

Andy
 
New Shoes

It’s been a while since I posted here. Have been driving the car and considering a plan of action for its 2 remaining faults.

First up, new carpet mats are in but frustrating to find that the carpet clips aren’t up to the job of holding them in place, you need clips to go on the clips for that. Obviously. ?

Got some new tyres on her because the ditch finders were lethal in the wet. Budget and aged tyres are not a good mix. The first spot of rain here actually caused me to drift slightly round a roundabout I was taking at what I’d consider a reasonable pace.

So a new set of Continetals were fitted. That’s the sliding issue nailed.

Debated back and forth going for the larger tyre height but had 2nd thoughts, mostly due to the speedo being more accurate. I’d be fine with that if it was my car but I don’t want someone else creepin over the expected speed and ending up in trouble.

So the two remaining faults?

1 - Still a vacuum leak! I literally have no idea where but I seen another post which lead me to believe it may not actually be a leak, but instead is one of the one way valves that’s not right. The car still has a tendency to not start after it’s been sat for a while, I believe that’s due to a lack of vacuum, which is also causing the intermittent setpoint problem, the flaps don’t close on startup therefore the car won’t start. I have bought new vacuum hose to fit and will see where it goes from there, but I think I’ll be replacing the one way lines to the servo and on the manifold itself.

I also believe that the rattle I hear on startup sometimes isn’t tappets. I think it’s the intake flaps rattling around due to insufficient vacuum to hold them firmly in place.

2 - CLUNK! Over speed bumps there’s a big old clunk from the offside front. It sounds like a work ARB bush, and is slowly getting very slightly worse. My theory just now is that it is the ARB bush, despite being brand new. The big ol bush in the console looks a bit worse for wear, I thought I’d get away with it but I’m now thinking the excessive travel that worn bush will allow has likely expedited the wear of the ARB. Doesn’t help that there’s 5 speed bumps between the house and he main road. Grrrr..... I will replace both I think.
 
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New Shoes

It’s been a while since I posted here. Have been driving the car and considering a plan of action for its 2 remaining faults.

First up, new carpet mats are in but frustrating to find that the carpet clips aren’t up to the job of holding them in place, you need clips to go on the clips for that. Obviously.

Got some new tyres on her because the ditch finders were lethal in the wet. Budget and aged tyres are not a good mix. The first spot of rain here actually caused me to drift slightly round a roundabout I was taking at what I’d consider a reasonable pace.

So a new set of Continetals were fitted. That’s the sliding issue nailed.

Debated back and forth going for the larger tyre height but had 2nd thoughts, mostly due to the speedo being more accurate. I’d be fine with that if it was my car but I don’t want someone else creepin over the expected speed and ending up in trouble.

So the two remaining faults?

1 - Still a vacuum leak! I literally have no idea where but I seen another post which lead me to believe it may not actually be a leak, but instead is one of the one way valves that’s not right. The car still has a tendency to not start after it’s been sat for a while, I believe that’s due to a lack of vacuum, which is also causing the intermittent setpoint problem, the flaps don’t close on startup therefore the car won’t start. I have bought new vacuum hose to fit and will see where it goes from there, but I think I’ll be replacing the one way lines to the servo and on the manifold itself.

I also believe that the rattle I hear on startup sometimes isn’t tappets. I think it’s the intake flaps rattling around due to insufficient vacuum to hold them firmly in place.

2 - CLUNK! Over speed bumps there’s a big old clunk from the offside front. It sounds like a work ARB bush, and is slowly getting very slightly worse. My theory just now is that it is the ARB bush, despite being brand new. The big ol bush in the console looks a bit worse for wear, I thought I’d get away with it but I’m now thinking the excessive travel that worn bush will allow has likely expedited the wear of the ARB. Doesn’t help that there’s 5 speed bumps between the house and he main road. Grrrr..... I will replace both I think.

I’m also getting some heavy clunk from my offside front on speed bumps and have been told my ARB bushing is needing replaced. I’m also getting some rattle on normal road bumps as well so I probably need to get my finger out on this one. Maybe you could do a pictoral guide for this numpty here


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There's a Febi kit 37657 which contains 2x 16mm ARB bushes (Febi part number 27638), 2x the bush retaining straps and 4 replaceable stretch bolts. I bought the bushes and bolts separately when doing my car's front end, but then found this kit containing everything for my other half's car that are going on next week as the final part of the refresh.
 
So.... Long time no post. The car is currently sat in the driveway. I have rebuilt the engine on her, it didn't go well. When I put it back together and ran it for a bit there's low compression on the middle 2 cylinders. Which very likely means I made an awful mistake rebuilding it. There is a strong chance I will break this car for parts, if someone doesn't have a spare engine they can sell me which is in absolute mint condition.

Why rebuilt I hear you ask? Because of the constant small problems that there was no obvious reason for. The refusal to start every 2nd turn of the key, the lumpiness came back, the awful carbon build up, the oil started to vanish - I suspected a valve stem oil seal after discovering that it was chewing through spark plugs.

I have been looking at alternative engines which can be put in the car which don't involve the FSI gear, which I now believe to be the source of all the worlds problems! I think there's a few more modern versions of the 1.4 with the individual spark plugs.

So nothing too drastic has happened to the car for now... But... Unless an alternative engine can be sourced, it'll be getting ripped apart. Far too many good parts on it to just throw the whole thing away.

For now, we are buying a low miler Mk4 Golf 2.0 GTI as a runaround for him. Bulletproof engine. No flaps! :D
 
So.... Long time no post. The car is currently sat in the driveway. I have rebuilt the engine on her, it didn't go well. When I put it back together and ran it for a bit there's low compression on the middle 2 cylinders. Which very likely means I made an awful mistake rebuilding it. There is a strong chance I will break this car for parts, if someone doesn't have a spare engine they can sell me which is in absolute mint condition.

Why rebuilt I hear you ask? Because of the constant small problems that there was no obvious reason for. The refusal to start every 2nd turn of the key, the lumpiness came back, the awful carbon build up, the oil started to vanish - I suspected a valve stem oil seal after discovering that it was chewing through spark plugs.

I have been looking at alternative engines which can be put in the car which don't involve the FSI gear, which I now believe to be the source of all the worlds problems! I think there's a few more modern versions of the 1.4 with the individual spark plugs.

So nothing too drastic has happened to the car for now... But... Unless an alternative engine can be sourced, it'll be getting ripped apart. Far too many good parts on it to just throw the whole thing away.

For now, we are buying a low miler Mk4 Golf 2.0 GTI as a runaround for him. Bulletproof engine. No flaps! :D
There's a few members fitting alternative engines at the moment, I'll try to find them later.
 
So.... Long time no post. The car is currently sat in the driveway. I have rebuilt the engine on her, it didn't go well. When I put it back together and ran it for a bit there's low compression on the middle 2 cylinders. Which very likely means I made an awful mistake rebuilding it. There is a strong chance I will break this car for parts, if someone doesn't have a spare engine they can sell me which is in absolute mint condition.

Why rebuilt I hear you ask? Because of the constant small problems that there was no obvious reason for. The refusal to start every 2nd turn of the key, the lumpiness came back, the awful carbon build up, the oil started to vanish - I suspected a valve stem oil seal after discovering that it was chewing through spark plugs.

I have been looking at alternative engines which can be put in the car which don't involve the FSI gear, which I now believe to be the source of all the worlds problems! I think there's a few more modern versions of the 1.4 with the individual spark plugs.

So nothing too drastic has happened to the car for now... But... Unless an alternative engine can be sourced, it'll be getting ripped apart. Far too many good parts on it to just throw the whole thing away.

For now, we are buying a low miler Mk4 Golf 2.0 GTI as a runaround for him. Bulletproof engine. No flaps! :D
Hi, I'm one of those fitting a non FSI replacement in my FSI car..........all I'll say is unless you have patience of a saint, a better than good level experience of car electrics/electronics and the ability to read circuit diagrams in depth and adapt one to interface with the other then you'll probably give up after many hours of pulling your hair out...........(if you've got any left after your FSI troubles so far).
I've got a project thread up, Project Adolf (PITA), with updates as I get jobs done........the car is just a little project to keep my grey matter going and as an ex Porsche/BMW tech I'm at an advantage to many as this sort of work is what I used to do...
Another thing that you will need is a full VCDS set up at minimum and ideally VAGdashcom to read the SKU code from your dash to enable the immob of the replacement ECU.
From what I've read of this thread you seem more than able to do the engine swap and I'm sure changes to the fuel and cooling system shouldn't present too many issues with a little head scratching.
Chris
 
Hi, I'm one of those fitting a non FSI replacement in my FSI car..........all I'll say is unless you have patience of a saint, a better than good level experience of car electrics/electronics and the ability to read circuit diagrams in depth and adapt one to interface with the other then you'll probably give up after many hours of pulling your hair out...........(if you've got any left after your FSI troubles so far).
I've got a project thread up, Project Adolf (PITA), with updates as I get jobs done........the car is just a little project to keep my grey matter going and as an ex Porsche/BMW tech I'm at an advantage to many as this sort of work is what I used to do...
Another thing that you will need is a full VCDS set up at minimum and ideally VAGdashcom to read the SKU code from your dash to enable the immob of the replacement ECU.
From what I've read of this thread you seem more than able to do the engine swap and I'm sure changes to the fuel and cooling system shouldn't present too many issues with a little head scratching.
Chris
I will be looking it up and seeing how it goes. Wiring I probably have the patience for, I work in IT, so electronics shouldn't be too much of a worry, despite having avoided them as hard as I could for as long as possible.

I'll see how my patience goes, I have 2 other 20 year old Audi's which take up most of my time, so for now it's only my desire not to see an other-wise good car go to ruin that's saving it from being broken! Common sense and all my friends have advised me to just get rid of it.
 
So.... Long time no post. The car is currently sat in the driveway. I have rebuilt the engine on her, it didn't go well. When I put it back together and ran it for a bit there's low compression on the middle 2 cylinders. Which very likely means I made an awful mistake rebuilding it. There is a strong chance I will break this car for parts, if someone doesn't have a spare engine they can sell me which is in absolute mint condition.

Why rebuilt I hear you ask? Because of the constant small problems that there was no obvious reason for. The refusal to start every 2nd turn of the key, the lumpiness came back, the awful carbon build up, the oil started to vanish - I suspected a valve stem oil seal after discovering that it was chewing through spark plugs.

I have been looking at alternative engines which can be put in the car which don't involve the FSI gear, which I now believe to be the source of all the worlds problems! I think there's a few more modern versions of the 1.4 with the individual spark plugs.

So nothing too drastic has happened to the car for now... But... Unless an alternative engine can be sourced, it'll be getting ripped apart. Far too many good parts on it to just throw the whole thing away.

For now, we are buying a low miler Mk4 Golf 2.0 GTI as a runaround for him. Bulletproof engine. No flaps! :D

1.6 AVY from the lupo, I’m currently doing a conversation.


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Would suggest the first thing you do before getting too involved would be to buy some wiring diags, couple of ways you can do this 1, pay to access the VAG tech website and download everything you need (if you've got good download speeds), 2 Buy a disc from ebay (usually iffy downloaded copies but pay your money take your choice)....you normally have to run a virtual machine for these..........no problem for you I doubt.
Take a look at the FSI diag and compare to the 1.4 AUA/BBY diag.......there are a lot of differences, power for the FSI management is different, there are connections to the airbag on the FSI etc etc etc.............As I said you'll need a good understanding of both wiring and how to modify circuits to overcome the difference between both engine/car types.
 
Would suggest the first thing you do before getting too involved would be to buy some wiring diags, couple of ways you can do this 1, pay to access the VAG tech website and download everything you need (if you've got good download speeds), 2 Buy a disc from ebay (usually iffy downloaded copies but pay your money take your choice)....you normally have to run a virtual machine for these..........no problem for you I doubt.
Take a look at the FSI diag and compare to the 1.4 AUA/BBY diag.......there are a lot of differences, power for the FSI management is different, there are connections to the airbag on the FSI etc etc etc.............As I said you'll need a good understanding of both wiring and how to modify circuits to overcome the difference between both engine/car types.

Do you have any pin out plans that you have created during this conversion, I have some rough ones and it would be useful to compare my planned pin outs


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Do you have any pin out plans that you have created during this conversion, I have some rough ones and it would be useful to compare my planned pin outs


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I've cut all the plugs which join the body loom to the engine loom.............too much trouble trying to use them as pins in one plug do not tie in and there's an extra plug on the FSI........
What I've spent a few hours doing is to list the ecu pins and wire colours but only for the BBY loom as I'm running coil per cyl, so if anyone's using AUA loom its not much use.
 
I've cut all the plugs which join the body loom to the engine loom.............too much trouble trying to use them as pins in one plug do not tie in and there's an extra plug on the FSI........
What I've spent a few hours doing is to list the ecu pins and wire colours but only for the BBY loom as I'm running coil per cyl, so if anyone's using AUA loom its not much use.

Are you going to match by colour? As from my planning the colours are often reused and don’t seem to match up at all!


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Are you going to match by colour? As from my planning the colours are often reused and don’t seem to match up at all!


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Also Chris, how are you getting the SKU form the replacement IMMO?


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By using an A2 1.4 loom the colours match on the whole...........but you must use a loom either with or without A/C depending on your cars spec and depending on what ignition system you plan to use....remember the ECU must match the ignition system as well........it makes it easier and you won't have too many "spare" wires. Its a bit of a mine field in some ways but I've collected a few ECU's to suit either 1.4 BBY and 1.6 BBZ, so if your donor engine is coil per cyl you'll be better off with a later BBY loom or if its plug lead/coil on the end of the cam housing a AUA loom will suit.
As for the SKU code I've got a genuine VAGdash.com lead (you can buy a fake off of ebay..BEWARE!! some people have reported bricked dashes and ecu's) so can read both the ECU and dash to get them........you can also read the code from the binary in the dash but its a bit of a faff.............have a look at Digital kaos.com there are some smart guys on there who understand this far better than I do.
As I've said before you need to be.. 1, Brave 2, Very experienced with car repairs 3, Stupid or a sucker for punishment...lol lol to do this work, the car will never be worth all the trouble you've gone to get it running with a non FSI engine......
Of course I class myself as stupid.................lol
 
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