A Polo that won't rust :)

Kernow A2 said:
By using an A2 1.4 loom the colours match on the whole...........but you must use a loom either with or without A/C depending on your cars spec and depending on what ignition system you plan to use....remember the ECU must match the ignition system as well........it makes it easier and you won't have too many "spare" wires. Its a bit of a mine field in some ways but I've collected a few ECU's to suit either 1.4 BBY and 1.6 BBZ, so if your donor engine is coil per cyl you'll be better off with a later BBY loom or if its plug lead/coil on the end of the cam housing a AUA loom will suit.
As for the SKU code I've got a genuine VAGdash.com lead (you can buy a fake off of ebay..BEWARE!! some people have reported bricked dashes and ecu's) so can read both the ECU and dash to get them........you can also read the code from the binary in the dash but its a bit of a faff.............have a look at Digital kaos.com there are some smart guys on there who understand this far better than I do.
As I've said before you need to be.. 1, Brave 2, Very experienced with car repairs 3, Stupid or a sucker for punishment...lol lol to do this work, the car will never be worth all the trouble you've gone to get it running with a non FSI engine......
Of course I class myself as stupid.................lol
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Mainlainly matching is very lucky. My engine conversion, nothing matches at all on any level, every single pin needs repinning, new vac lines, new water pipes...


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Yep, I had to change the cooling system, mainly the hose's but with some thought it's all doable, you need to have time and skill .............that's why I say its not worth it if you add the costs together...........or were thinking of paying someone to do it.
 
Kernow A2 said:
Yep, I had to change the cooling system, mainly the hose's but with some thought it's all doable, you need to have time and skill .............that's why I say its not worth it if you add the costs together...........or were thinking of paying someone to do it.
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Well I’m already half way through it, the engine is in, some bits works but getting the main engine loom ready to go in


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Kernow A2 said:
Yep, I had to change the cooling system, mainly the hose's but with some thought it's all doable, you need to have time and skill .............that's why I say its not worth it if you add the costs together...........or were thinking of paying someone to do it.
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It’s also not been expensive just very time consuming


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I bet if you were to add up the parts you've bought (and still may have to buy) and compare them to the costs of a good running 1.4 which you could fit a 1.6 moded engine to you'd be surprised ..........plus you wouldn't have to change very much at all saving many hours work, simply pull the engine fit the 1.6 change the cams, inlet, throttle valve and ecu = 115/125bhp with ease dependant on ecu choice and perhaps a different exhaust.
Just makes little sense to carry out the FSI conversion but a good exercise if you fancy a challenge....
 
Kernow A2 said:
I bet if you were to add up the parts you've bought (and still may have to buy) and compare them to the costs of a good running 1.4 which you could fit a 1.6 moded engine to you'd be surprised ..........plus you wouldn't have to change very much at all saving many hours work, simply pull the engine fit the 1.6 change the cams, inlet, throttle valve and ecu = 115/125bhp with ease dependant on ecu choice and perhaps a different exhaust.
Just makes little sense to carry out the FSI conversion but a good exercise if you fancy a challenge....
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Maybe but my engine, ecu, loom, all auxiliary, 4 to 1 sports manifold etc all came together for £400 also the engine had been owned by a real car lover that had recently rebuilt it and changed the oil every 4000 miles, the car I for it to go in was £300 and is in fact a really nice car, also a yellow CS finding another one of those is hard.

So in total including a few bits I’ve bought from clackers is in fact sub £900 including the car. To be honest it’s quite a cheap project. The expensive bit is going to be suspension, brakes, as I want to renew these to something a bit special, most likely the control arms.

In the end I should have a nicely sorted rare car. For sub £2000 with a very low mileage engine.

However from a time point of view it’s awful!

Quick question have you used your BBZ brake booster lines?


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Also one thing the J271 relay how have you wired this to the ecu as the FSI has a relayed power circuit for the ecu?


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Brake booster pipe is one from a load of bits I picked up in the scrap yards...it may even be an A2 one as I pulled a load of bits off one they had in (AUA engine)........it did fit rather well.......the FSI has a valve in the line controlled to open when the vacuum is highest as the inlet flap alters inlet manifold vacuum, with a BBZ manifold you should be able to use the standard system without any issues, ill find out when its running and road test to see how the brakes react to some cadence type testing (similar to abs but with me controlling how hard and the frequency).
The ECU has a couple of power feeds, one is a permanent feed (the smaller 0.5mm wire (red) which is no problem just find a permanent fused feed in the existing body loom, as for the relay I've retained that and rewired it to supply the other ECU live feeds when the ignition is switched on.
I'm hoping to finish most of the job in the next few days so I can power everything up and start sorting out the immob handshake with the new ECU, I read the dash info before I started cutting looms about but if there is an issue I can always remove the immob through the VAGdash.com software.
 
Kernow A2 said:
Brake booster pipe is one from a load of bits I picked up in the scrap yards...it may even be an A2 one as I pulled a load of bits off one they had in (AUA engine)........it did fit rather well.......the FSI has a valve in the line controlled to open when the vacuum is highest as the inlet flap alters inlet manifold vacuum, with a BBZ manifold you should be able to use the standard system without any issues, ill find out when its running and road test to see how the brakes react to some cadence type testing (similar to abs but with me controlling how hard and the frequency).
The ECU has a couple of power feeds, one is a permanent feed (the smaller 0.5mm wire (red) which is no problem just find a permanent fused feed in the existing body loom, as for the relay I've retained that and rewired it to supply the other ECU live feeds when the ignition is switched on.
I'm hoping to finish most of the job in the next few days so I can power everything up and start sorting out the immob handshake with the new ECU, I read the dash info before I started cutting looms about but if there is an issue I can always remove the immob through the VAGdash.com software.
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So with the bby and aua isn’t the main power feed to the ecu via a100 which is ignition live? On the fsi a100 powers some sensors but the main ecu power and a couple of sensors are split off and the power is switched from the relay, I think I’m going to use ignition live to switch the relay


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Kernow A2 said:
Havent got the diags with me at the moment but as I recall it was the easiest way to do it, and shouldn't throw any problems with the sensors.
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I don’t think it will either however doesn’t this mean the ecu is powered when the ignition is off?


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....just had a look on AUA looks to be switched with ign but on BBY its permenent.......strange perhaps something I'll have to investigate when its running...
 
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