A2 draws 0.47 amps with everything turned off

PlasticMac

Member
Hi Mac. Does it do DC current with the clamp? All the ones I've looked at (Fluke and non Fluke) do AC voltage & current but only DC voltage.
Just checked and yes it does. It's quite old, but works fine.
PXL_20220826_124111254.jpg
Mac.
 

PlasticMac

Member
Screwfix do one at £29.99. AC & DC current.
Using a multimeter is fine, just ignore the high in rush current when the fuse goes back in, it's just capacitors charging. Once the current is steady, the reading is good.
Mac.
 

RAB

Technical Specialist 1.2 TDI
Screwfix do one at £29.99. AC & DC current.
Using a multimeter is fine, just ignore the high in rush current when the fuse goes back in, it's just capacitors charging. Once the current is steady, the reading is good.
Mac.
Should be OK, but it doesn't say what the minimum range is. The Di-Log that I mentioned above goes down to 1mA.

RAB
 

DJ 190

Member
Screwfix do one at £29.99. AC & DC current.
Using a multimeter is fine, just ignore the high in rush current when the fuse goes back in, it's just capacitors charging. Once the current is steady, the reading is good.
Mac.
The Screwfix item will not measure DC current, so is not suitable. ( I established that by making a visit ton a Screwfix store and examining the very device) I have left out fuse number 2 and after several weeks the car did start promptly. The conclusion is that battery drain is associated with anything to do with fuse 2. ( That seems to include remote central locking)

David
 

PlasticMac

Member
The Screwfix item will not measure DC current, so is not suitable. ( I established that by making a visit ton a Screwfix store and examining the very device) I have left out fuse number 2 and after several weeks the car did start promptly. The conclusion is that battery drain is associated with anything to do with fuse 2. ( That seems to include remote central locking)
Just looked at the picture on the Screwfix app, and despite the title being ac/dc clamp etc, the front panel, as you've spotted, clearly show AC clamp meter.
Sorry for the duff gen.
Mac.
 

bfbgp

New Member
Hello

By way of update, I have discovered something new to me after 50+ years of messing with old cars (I started very young).
A new sealed battery was fitted a year ago and did not hold charge. Every time I took it out to charge the top seemed damp and when charging it the “magic eye“ moved out of the casing. It seemed likely that the problem was with the battery. Finally at the last charge the nearby carbon monoxide detector went off.

I sent for a new battery it arrived with a huge sign on top saying remove transit plugs before fitting. I had not heard of such checked the old battery and the said plugs were in place… and the mystery drain found. The first battery was eating itself, and I now know a sealed battery fitted.

New battery fitted transit plugs removed and the car is back to full health

This is a car I do not mind spending money on to keep it in good order. Given the choice between this and the family electric Citroen (450 mpg equivalent with nighttime charging at 4.7 miles for 7.5p) I prefer to drive the A2. Go figure as the colonials say.
 

alanb

Member
For me it was a corroded alarm unit that was draining my battery. I’ve not had any power issues since removing it.
Same for me. AFAIK it happens a lot. Small rechargeable batteries in the alarm sounder unit leak, corrode the circuit board and there’s a current leak.

It’s a faff to get to, but I just pulled the plug and the issue was sorted.

It means I don’t have an alarm sounder, but it’s so pathetically quiet anyway, I’ll never notice.
 
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