A2 EV Conversion.

Best batteries I've seen are similar to Jag iPace modules that you could squeeze 'maybe' 24 of in the A2, at £300 each. So £7200. So you can afford the batteries to get around 250mi or range, but not much else.

12kg each so 288kg before you build battery boxes around them. For almost 60kWh total pack.

You'll get weight back as said from engine, exhaust, fuel tank, along with potentially some of the cooling system, but you'll be heavier.

Using say the Mini Countryman PHEV electric rear diff as the motor you can do away with the gearbox too. 100kW 135ps motor.

Choice of inverter and controller for that inverter.
DC to DC converter to top up 12v battery.
Charger for said batteries.

Then stuff to ping stuff over CAN to tell things are ok or that the engine is still there and ping going back that you've pressed the accelerator.

Power Steering pump.
AC compressor,
heater...

Springs / dampers for additional weight.

You could do the above with smaller batteries to get it running. Then invest in some nicer, denser batteries.
 
So what do you think would be a total cost for what you've just listed? I'd be really interested in doing this. A typical new electric vehicle costs at least £30-40,000. I first converted cars to run on LPG in the 1970's and my most recent conversion was about 3 years ago and that was liquid propane injection to my Mercedes SLK. It doesn't have to make economic sense, it's just the pleasure of doing it!. A range of about 250 miles would be more than enough. I see that some electric conversion projects have revolved around the purchase of an early Nissan leaf as a base. (The batteries would be expected to have lost quite a bit of capacity, though.) In most of my projects I haven't compromised and so I'd have been thinking of purchasing those Jag modules. It would be a bit sad to have used my own A2 for the electric conversion because it's so special. I'm sure that there's an A2 somewhere that has a wrecked engine and would make a good base car. I've got excellent facilities here but to have had another A2OC member near-by to offer help and expertise would have been the "icing on the cake"! There is only one negative that "springs" to mind. (that's a pun! :)) The converted A2 would still have the poor quality of ride, as has been mentioned and certainly when compared to the BMW i3

David
 
I think the first thing to make such a conversion much more financially viable is drop the expected range right down. Odds are you'll also have an IC car in the family for quite a while anyway. I bet 100 miles would do most people perfectly well. Just imagine compared to the above spec: under half the battery cost, ditto battery weight, faster recharge (or easier charger install) and so on.

E.g. recently I've been getting a bit interested in the Outlander PHEV. Battery only range is a realistic 20-22miles, perhaps a little more. Tiny.

My commute: 5 miles each way.
My shopping trip: 6 miles each way.
Visit my painters: 9.5 miles each way.
Visit my parents: 10 miles each way.
Visit a high % of my local chums: under 10 miles each way.

O.K., my minute commute is probably relatively unusual, but nevertheless for me that 20 mile odd range is fine for literally 80% of my driving (eBike in nice weather actually). Most of the time a larger range simply means less plugging in, it doesn't mean I couldn't use the car.

Anyway, personally I'd rather keep the A2 as is and then get a ground-up EV in a little while. The hurdles of trying to get the electronics talking to a modern car make my head spin.

Classics as EV's: yes. under some circumstances, i.e. where it's a gorgeous looking car with a hum-ho engine (Volvo P1800 / Amazon) or where the original concept was refinement and near silence (Bentley Continental S1), not where the engine is the star of the show (Ferrari 328 / Porsche 911).

A client and I are just beginning the search for a P1800 donor for a Tesla powered EV conversion, and Austin special No2 is being born as an EV so I'm totally open to the concept for sure.
 
There are bargain early Nissan Leafs out there. Typically 2011 Yr and with a reduced battery energy capacity, down to 50-60 %. The cost? As low as £4000-£5000. Here's an example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174804915364?hash=item28b32f54a4:g:VScAAOSwfYZgycbA and another https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284334231518?hash=item4233a40fde:g:cfYAAOSwmcpgZBKv Now the range is still 45-55 miles! That's fine for local use AND there are items on Youtube regarding replacing the battery packs to a higher capacity.

David
 
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Total cost? So many factors I wouldn't like to say, nor if this ever comes about tell my wife. I'm looking at fitting all those batteries in because I could do 250mi in a single day as a commute and without access to proper chargers at my destination. When I'm back to that I hope the TT 2.0TDI I have has the turbo and bevel box back on it took off for the longer hauls.

I suspect a lot of the folks on this forum are here and rocking a TDI for the MPG in a now, cheap and well thought out package so are coming at this argument on the basis it should cross the Alps in a single go? The 1.4 and 1.6 end of things, a punchy electric motor and shorter range / less battery weight would be fun...

Those Leaf's would be a good idea. remember all the rest of it can be sold off after you've taken what you need. Balancing the costs. Although what kind of market is there for Leaf parts? The value is in the battery/motor/inverter and maybe scrap weight for the rest.

I've looked at BMW hybrid batteries too. Most PHEVs have packs that would get you a 'city car' range out of that cover a daily commute easily and without the weight penalty.

There's plenty of cheap conversion for £1k-3k out there.

I want to bring the first iteration in for £2-3k and 40-50 mi range as a city car for my OH who barely does that a week pinging around the various supermarkets and such. A minimal viable product then build from there, dropping a better motor in, fast charging, aero improvements, up to hopefully finding more battery options available at a cheaper price.
 
As David says, this would have to be more for the love of the project than for any economic reasons. I would personally love to convert an EV A2 (an E2)

Rab and others make excellent points though. Unless battery size and weight reduces pretty drastically then you will need to accept much shorter range to fit the batteries into the A2 without sacrificing your boot, or your back seats - and even then the increase in mass would be a challenge.

Personally I think the route to go for a refurb if it would be your only car will be when range extenders are more available. Drop in a battery pack capable of say 40 miles and have a small fuel-powered engine to maintain the battery if your journey will be longer or if it’s cold.

Some of the designs for these little motors are quite wonderful and they might run on ethanol, methane or hydrogen depending on set up. I think my favourite is either a micro turbine by Mitre or a design which is like two cylinders joined together top to top with a ‘bobbin’ moving up and down the tube to generate the electricity.

There are weight penalties and you’d need space but I’ve seen an Audi a1 concept where the ac motor, charger and generator all lived in the engine bay and the battery pack sat similarly to the Prius in the back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I've recently just done a complete EV race car design project on behalf of a well known but not so big manufacturer, can't name them for now unfortunately due to NDA. You guys are definitely on the right track with used motors, because lightweight and efficient automotive use motors are not cheap. I think 5000-7000gbp is a fair target budget for a conversion like this.

The main things to consider are: what do people interested in this project and this budget want? Performance, range, weight and space lost would be the main things I consider.

Let's focus on the 2011 Leaf powertrain as an example. We will first go through some nerdy math so we can put the performance into perspective.

1. Performance, quickest accelerating off the shelf A2 is a FSI about 9.8s 0-60. 110hp, 155Nm. 5 speed manual. You need to use 3 gears to reach 60mph. For how quick it can accelerate we need to consider the gear ratios and final drive which will give us axle torque. We won't calculate wheel torque since we aren't changing it.

Torque curve here https://www.audiworld.com/news/02/geneva/a2/a205.jpg

Final drive GSK transmission: 3.933:1
1st gear: 3.455, 2nd: 2.095, 3rd gear 1.387
Axle torque at maximum engine torque would be 2106, 1277 and 846Nm respectively at 4500RPM
Since the torque curve isn't flat, for 2000RPM from the graph, it is roughly 82.5% of the above axle torque figures. 89% for 3000RPM and 5500RPM. You get the idea.


The Leaf uses a 110hp, 280Nm motor. Single gear final drive 7.937:1 direct input form motor I assume (common).
Torque curve (all motors will look like this due to back EMF), EV's are most efficient at lower speeds: https://www.researchgate.net/profil...r-parameters-for-a-Nissan-Leaf-vehicle-20.png

To figure out where this motor operates at 60mph, we need tire size: 631mm. Result: approximately 6500RPM, motor torque at this point= 120Nm.
Time to figure out the axle torques at different speeds.
0-26mph: Axle torque = 2222Nm
40mph: 1388Nm
60mph: 952Nm

Now what is the point of these axle torques, it is to give you a roughly idea of how the car feels at these different speeds. Using 1,2,3 gear for the A2 because they would be the gears you use for max acceleration these speeds listed above.
Leaf motor has more torque, of course. But I wanted you guys to know that it's not a huge difference at the axle.
To calculate acceleration, we still need to figure out the approximate weight of the vehicle.

A2 FSI listed unladen weight 1085kg, take 40kg out for fuel, 15kg for fuel system, and let's assume 245kg for all engine and gearbox stuff which we will remove, puts us at a nice 300kg. We will keep the 12V battery for accessories. Our car now sits at 785kg.

https://www.marklines.com/en/report_all/rep1786_201811 , 2010 battery pack assembly ~300kg, half of which are actual batteries, other half are wiring, protection plate, mounting system etc
https://www.quora.com/Why-are-electric-cars-so-heavy-The-Nissan-Leaf-is-1-470-kilos , the weights of the charger, inverter and motor were 27kg, 15kg and 82kg respectively.
We also need a dc-dc converter to deal with the 12V system, ~30kg and another set of wiring to mate to the A2 ~10kg.
We also need a cooling system for the motor, inverter and battery pack, so let's call it 50kg
Now I'm sure we probably need a few more bits, and to be accurate and conservative lets call it another 35kg

Total weight ~1300kg < this is assuming we put the whole battery system in somehow, perhaps distributed in engine bay, in front footwells, in place of fuel tank, in bottom of boot, I'm sure we can fit it somehow, or let's at least assume so for sake of this (already spent an hour typing).
We are about 220kg lighter than the first Leaf! I think it's reasonable, maybe slightly lower than reality cuz we would need some brackets and stuff. But close enough, let's move on.

I'm excluding driver weight.

So time for some more math. F=m*a, acceleration = Force/mass, Force is calculated from Torque /distance, distance in our case is wheel radius which will not be changed, and since we are just comparing for how much acceleration boost we will use torque to visualize it. We will call this the acceleration factor and not confuse you with units, but the higher the better.

FSI A2 1, 2, 3 gear, 1085kg
Max acceleration factor: 1.94, 1.17, 0.78 for the gears respectively at 4500RPM
3000RPM, 5500RPM: 89% of above (1.72, 1.04, 0.69)
Can calculate for the other RPMs yourself if you want but most RPMs will fall in this region for we when we pass at max acceleration.

Leaf powered A2: 1300kg
Max acceleration factor:
0-26mph: 1.71
40mph: 1.07
60mph: 0.732

So what can we conclude from this? The FSI A2 can provide a punchier feeling at specific RPM and speed ranges in the first three gears and accelerate quicker there. However the Leaf A2 is very similar and even better at 60mph than the FSI. The EV will not require any gear shifts and will be quite useful for whenever power is demanded, not everyone can instantly and perfectly downshift their A2 to the correct gear. I estimate overall, the Leaf motor will feel just a little quicker than the FSI but accelerate to 60mph quicker by 1 second to ~8.8s because the leaf which is 220kg heavier at 1520kg does 9.8s. I personally is happy with this performance, very reasonable.

Batteries and Range:
Since the Leaf 2011 model only has 24kWh and does 109miles on the NEDC loop, and we want people to support this project as much as possible, we should at least target this.
With a similar Cd and likely similar frontal area, we can assume similar drag.
Let's be optimistic and say 85% range is still available from these used batteries, now we have 109*0.85= 92.65miles. This is what the ~150kg of battery can provide for the total weight 1520kg in today so let's do a rough factor estimate:

150kg battery = 92.65miles for 1520kg

1300kg/1520kg = 0.855

92.65miles/0.855 = 108.36miles, since the powertrain isn't optimized for the A2, let's just say it it can do 100miles conservatively

100miles I think is a range that is realistic and worth doing the work for, for people who drive their A2 a lot (short trips) and love A2s.

Further:
Batteries have come a long way since 2011, many things need to be considered, battery chemistry for safety, power density, energy density and cost. Tesla model 3 cells are quite a good balance. But I think it will be quite the liability to make our own battery packs, especially consider the consequences of battery failure and considering the relative ease of obtaining proven safe packs from a Leaf.

What I am most inclined to do (as a Motorsport Engineer)?
I would get a Nissan Leaf, literally move all the batteries, cooling pump, motor, gearbox and anything drivetrain, powertrain, battery electrical into an A2. Make the HV battery able to charge an A2 12V battery and keep the A2 12V battery. I would use the Leaf's throttle pedal, brake pedal assembly and cut up the floors of the A2 (space frame so the floors are super thin skins, can easily make new removable covers) to mount as much batteries as possible under the car, one pack in the boot, one under the bay if possible. I will try to fit all of the batteries in otherwise I don't think it's worth my money or time, the batteries themselves are only 150kg anyways.
The complexity we can minimize by going this route is maintaining OEM Leaf motor control, thermal control (very important), battery protection and drivability. This is not something you can make as good as OEM or as nearly as safe yourself. The last thing you want is having your 13000GBP A2 catch on fire and have to explain to insurance about it.

Would I consider other cars?
Not really, not for the price targets we have for now at least. Maybe an i3, but you're paying more for the carbon fibre if anything..

What do I think it will cost?
5000GBP for a Leaf with good batteries, 1000GBP for Cooling system pipework and radiator, 500GBP for a used welder, 500GBP for metals, 2500GBP for misc. All these rates are based on if I do my own work. No clue how long it will take (probs 300+hours) and if we assume 50gbp/hr, it's definitely not worth paying people to do this. These are based on experience in putting engines in cars where they don't belong ?

Would I pair other batteries with a Leaf motor?
Maybe newer Leaf batteries, but not other cars cuz of the reasons above.

Took me 2 hours to type it out, hope it helps haha. Needed a break from my school work?.

*disclaimer, all of above are my personal opinion for the sake of a discussion, all work should be carried out by and under consultancy of EV and HV system professionals.
 
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I've been away so I haven't read your contribution until now. I found it interesting and informative! This is the question that I'd hope to get some answers too .... What is to be gained by purchasing a Nissan Leaf and using it to convert an Audi A2? I can appreciate that we all have a place in our hearts for the design features, appearance and "quirkiness" of the A2. AND its aluminium construction. Economy is there, too, with the diesel and "3-litre" version. However its ride quality badly lets it down. I would assume that the Nissan Leaf's ride quality is far superior? So why not simply purchase a late Leaf and use it as-is? (Or even better upgrade the batteries for a higher output and range?) Now if the A2 could be made to be far superior to the leaf, then I CAN see the logic in its conversion using the leaf's components.
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Just noticed this : https://provscons.com/why-nissan-leaf-depreciate-so-much/ It might go a little way towards answering my own question! ;)
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David
 
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245kg for engine and gearbox is waaaaaay off! 150kg for engine and gearbox would be about right for a 1.4, maybe a smidge more for the FSI but it wont be as much as you'd suspect.
Guessing weights (or any other metrics for that matter) is a dangerous game when trying to produce meaningful comparisons.
 
You said a manual gear shift conversion, that's not possible as EV are auto only as their are no gears. I'll be honest I wouldn't try a conversion to electric, I would keep it as a classic car whether or not I could drive it and buy an EV for my motoring needs.
I’ve heard there is a firm in mainland Europe doing this conversion already
Have you made enquiries?
 
I've been away so I haven't read your contribution until now. I found it interesting and informative! This is the question that I'd hope to get some answers too .... What is to be gained by purchasing a Nissan Leaf and using it to convert an Audi A2? I can appreciate that we all have a place in our hearts for the design features, appearance and "quirkiness" of the A2. AND its aluminium construction. Economy is there, too, with the diesel and "3-litre" version. However its ride quality badly lets it down. I would assume that the Nissan Leaf's ride quality is far superior? So why not simply purchase a late Leaf and use it as-is? (Or even better upgrade the batteries for a higher output and range?) Now if the A2 could be made to be far superior to the leaf, then I CAN see the logic in its conversion using the leaf's components.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Just noticed this : https://provscons.com/why-nissan-leaf-depreciate-so-much/ It might go a little way towards answering my own question! ;)
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David
At the risk of going slightly OT: I would say the Leaf has good ride quality, but rather stodgy handling. It's packaging isn't great (poor rear foot room, due to battery under front seats and compromised boot space, due to styling of rear end). It's basically a Nissan Pulsar with the engine replaced by a motor/invertor and a battery bolted to the bottom of it. Although the Mk2 Leaf looks different, it's just a big facelift. What the Leaf did was provide the first credible mass-produced EV, so can be a good source of cheap-ish parts for a conversion.

The 2012/13 batteries suffered significant degradation, especially if they got too hot. 2014 on 24kwh batteries are much better. 30/40kwh are slightly less good as they are more energy dense and more prone to overheating. 62kwh batteries are looking better, but haven't been around that long and those cars are still expensive.

I think an A2 could make a fantastic EV, but it's a big project - something to do for the love of it/challenge, not because it makes any economic sense!
 
throwing this out there
 
This tells you why early Leafs are cheap! Don't buy an EV which doesn't have battery thermal management, new or used.

RAB
True, although battery chemistry plays a part. Nissan changed the chemistry of their 24kWh battery after the first couple of years of production, which made it less temperature sensitive and reduced its degredation. 30kWh batteries suffer a degredation rate somewhere between the two 24kWh batteries. Our 6 year old, 50k mile Leaf is currently running at 89% capacity, having lost around 5% over the 3 1/2 years and 40k we have had it. Anecdotally, I would say they like being used and not left full or empty.
 
I love the idea of an electric A2, but the mod I’d be most interested in is shaving off lbs. by introducing li-ion - as a replacement for the heavy lead acid battery in the boot, and under the bonnet get some items off of the accessories belt to get the most out of the engine. Such as an electric water pump. Doesn’t the Singer Porsche do this?
 
I love the idea of an electric A2, but the mod I’d be most interested in is shaving off lbs. by introducing li-ion - as a replacement for the heavy lead acid battery in the boot, and under the bonnet get some items off of the accessories belt to get the most out of the engine. Such as an electric water pump. Doesn’t the Singer Porsche do this?
Guy at work had an electric waterpump on his Orion & it lasted 3 months after getting it from Australia!
 
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