A2 no rear speakers

AFG

Member
Hi

Quick question, my A2 came without rear speakers.

Would like to add some. What is the process?

Thank you

Gaz
 
The rear speakers are the same as the ones in the front but you'll need the separate amplifier for the rears that goes under the driver's floor. There shouldn't be any shortage of availability of any of them. The issue will be that the wiring won't already exist, from the headunit backwards. The wires will have to go through the existing connectors into the rear doors. There will be a lot of trim to remove, connectors to get out of their poor-access locations to put pins into, and soldering of wires to do.

The simple answer is, engage @timmus :)
 
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Afternoon Gaz,

I’ve not personally had to do this retrofit before but you'll need to collect the parts required:

1. Blaupunkt amplifier
2. 2x speakers
3. VCDS for any specific coding
4. Associated pins and wiring

These parts should be readily available from one of our resident ethical breakers. Place a Wanted add in the Market area as one of them may be willing to remove the whole loom for you instead of just cutting the connectors.

Once you have these parts you’ll need to add the necessary feeds at the head unit mini ISO connectors and take them down to the Blaupunkt amplifier:

Mini ISO connector (20 pin):
1 - rear left signal
2 - rear right signal
3 - signal ground
6 - Plus switched (amplifier)
Pins 1,2 & 3 should be shielded to avoid interference, everything you need will no doubt be in someone’s breaker.

Blaupunkt Amplifier Connector (12 pin):
1 - Speaker (-) rear left
2 - Terminal 30
3 - Terminal 31
4 - Signal ground (from head unit)
5 - Switched live (from the head unit)
6 - Speaker (+) rear right
7 - Speaker (+) rear left
9 - rear left signal (from head unit)
10 - rear right signal (from head unit)
12 - Speaker (-) rear right

From the amplifier you’ll need to take pins 1,6,7&12 to the handed internal B pillar connectors and then from the exterior B pillar connectors through the doors to the speakers themselves.

Written down like this is looks quite straightforward but you’ll have to remove various trim panels. As Ian @Proghound says above, it might just be easier to get someone to do it for you but that removes the satisfaction of doing it yourself.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Would also depend on the head unit. Not certain, but believe the first Chorus unit had no facility for rear speakers.

Just edited after finding a picture showing FADER button on fascia.
 
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Would also depend on the head unit. Not certain, but believe the first Chorus unit had no facility for rear speakers.
Fair point Graham,

Gaz @AFG what head unit do you have and do you have head unit removal keys to check the pinout label on top. This should answer the question whether or not your head unit is rear speaker capable and avoid any speculation.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Trying to find a pin out for the old Chorus 1 but all images are poor. After much search I see the FADER button on the front on all the radios so yes capable of front and rear speakers although perhaps coded out when not fitted. As Tom has said pull out your unit to check the wiring diagram label on it.

Even if you had told us the head unit would have helped.
 
In addition to what’s already been written, the rear doors themselves will also need to be rewired. At present, there’s no wiring for audio in the rear doors.
To keep their lightweight eco machine as light as possible, Audi didn’t include any wiring for optional extras that weren’t specified at factory.

All relevant Audi head units, whether Gen 1 or Gen2, Chorus, Concert or Symphony, have the necessary outputs.

Gaz, many thanks for your most recent private message. I’m currently neck-deep in house renovations, so my reply times are even longer than usual, but I’m happy to include this topic in our discussions.

Cheers,

Tom
 
I'd seriously consider fitting new speakers and amplifier. Fitting 15 to 20 year old, reclaimed bits, seems, to me, to devalue the serious amount of work that you'll be doing anyway.
Fitting aftermarket speakers will be a challenge, and others on here may be able to suggest units that they have fitted successfully.
Not the same I know, but I've recently replaced the original speakers, and amplifier in my TT. I used mid price JBL speakers and amp.
Not strictly required, but as Tom says, run the line out from the HU to the amplifier in screened cable.
Good luck.
Mac.
This thread may be of interest:
 
I'd seriously consider fitting new speakers and amplifier. Fitting 15 to 20 year old, reclaimed bits, seems, to me, to devalue the serious amount of work that you'll be doing anyway.
Fitting aftermarket speakers will be a challenge, and others on here may be able to suggest units that they have fitted successfully.
Not the same I know, but I've recently replaced the original speakers, and amplifier in my TT. I used mid price JBL speakers and amp.
Not strictly required, but as Tom says, run the line out from the HU to the amplifier in screened cable.
Good luck.
Mac.
This thread may be of interest:
Well posted Mac,

That really is a helpful link, exactly what @AFG asked for. There is more than enough information included to fully enable him to proceed with this particular retrofit alone should he wish to do so.

Fingers crossed someone is willing to correctly and fully remove the complete loom for this and future kits. It isn’t too difficult at all and is what we should be trying to achieve by saving as much of these end of life vehicles as possible. Simply cutting connectors off should really be a last resort as apart from time, it’s very achievable to remove complete looms for people to have all they need to refer to the pinout diagrams and conduct these less challenging retrofits themselves with as little soldering as possible.

I fully understand that this might push the price of salvaged parts due to the additional removal time but it’ll be cheaper in the long run for the fully working/required result and much more helpful to the community.

This is just my personal thoughts after seeing the recent full heated seat loom available on eBay. Whoever purchased that just had to push the pins into the correct connector hole and they were good to go.

Gaz @AFG get a Wanted add put together to see what’s possible Sir.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Guys

Thank you for all your replies

I think I agree with Mac, I would upgrade to modern speakers and new head unit.

Best

Gaz
 
Guys

Thank you for all your replies

I think I agree with Mac, I would upgrade to modern speakers and new head unit.

Best

Gaz
Do think hard, before replacing the head unit. The Chorus/Concert is period correct, and is a good quality bit of kit. It's easy to add Bluetooth, for streaming, and hands free calls, if needed. Replacing speakers and amp is hidden. Originality is important to me, but it's your car, and what suits you is what's right.
Mac.
 
Mac

You are right about originality and oem look

I can't remember what unit I have in my car, I know it's cassette player and it doesn't have fader option, maybe it's chorus

Now if I upgrade to better oem unit , what units fits directly to the wiring etc?

Also the amp and wiring for the rear door speaker is it a lot Involved?

best

Gaz
 
Mac

You are right about originality and oem look

I can't remember what unit I have in my car, I know it's cassette player and it doesn't have fader option, maybe it's chorus

Now if I upgrade to better oem unit , what units fits directly to the wiring etc?

Also the amp and wiring for the rear door speaker is it a lot Involved?

best

Gaz
I think the absence of the front/rear fade is because you have no rear speakers to fade to!
Once you have them, the HU will be re-coded to suit, and you'll have fade.
Mac.
 
I an only think of one sensible suggestion here. Timmus who has been known to come down to Leighton Buzzard on his annual pilgrimage.
 
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