Additional Earth - Whats the recommendation?

[L162LZ]

Hi All,
Looking for some advice. I've read in a few threads that "an additional earth should be first mod you do" and wanted to ask wheres the recommended location(s) to run this from/to and size of cable etc.. Car is a 2001 1.4 TDI
TIA

 

[Robin_Cox]

I haven't got additional earths for the engine, but actually unscrewing and cleaning the contact surfaces between the starter motor earth cable and the chassis leg underneath the ABS pipework behind the headlamp on UK passenger side made a huge improvement to cold-weather starting on both tdi and 1.4i engined cars. Providing the bolt isn't seized and the existing cable is intact, start with that, then consider fitting additional earths if it doesn't do anything. Are you experiencing symptoms of a bad earth? (Laboured cranking even when the battery is good and fully charged?).

Fitting additional earths I have done with the wiper motor - this made a vast difference on two of our cars and I'm going to do it on the third when I get a chance. 6mm earth cable around 50cm long with 8mm eyes at the ends, from an existing bolt that screws into the casing to a bolt securing the alternator belt tensioner.

 

[L162LZ]

Thankyou, that's really helpful I'm only picking up the car next week but have been reading the forum and preparing a list of things to check/do initially and additional earthing had been mentioned a few times as quite important!

 

[JavaGreen]

I haven't got additional earths for the engine, but actually unscrewing and cleaning the contact surfaces between the starter motor earth cable and the chassis leg underneath the ABS pipework behind the headlamp on UK passenger side made a huge improvement to cold-weather starting on both tdi and 1.4i engined cars. Providing the bolt isn't seized and the existing cable is intact, start with that, then consider fitting additional earths if it doesn't do anything. Are you experiencing symptoms of a bad earth? (Laboured cranking even when the battery is good and fully charged?).

Fitting additional earths I have done with the wiper motor - this made a vast difference on two of our cars and I'm going to do it on the third when I get a chance. 6mm earth cable around 50cm long with 8mm eyes at the ends, from an existing bolt that screws into the casing to a bolt securing the alternator belt tensioner.

Very useful information, thanks

 

[L162LZ]

I haven't got additional earths for the engine, but actually unscrewing and cleaning the contact surfaces between the starter motor earth cable and the chassis leg underneath the ABS pipework behind the headlamp on UK passenger side made a huge improvement to cold-weather starting on both tdi and 1.4i engined cars. Providing the bolt isn't seized and the existing cable is intact, start with that, then consider fitting additional earths if it doesn't do anything. Are you experiencing symptoms of a bad earth? (Laboured cranking even when the battery is good and fully charged?).

Fitting additional earths I have done with the wiper motor - this made a vast difference on two of our cars and I'm going to do it on the third when I get a chance. 6mm earth cable around 50cm long with 8mm eyes at the ends, from an existing bolt that screws into the casing to a bolt securing the alternator belt tensioner.

Thanks I've ordered some 6mm cable and some of these connectors (I'll solder them on and shrink wrap the ends), so im ready

 

[Robin_Cox]

Herewith the cable I used for the earthing - my description of 6mm and the length was from memory. I think it is correct for the conductor though based on the insulated diameter being 8-9mm or thereabouts.

18" INCH 450mm CAR BATTERY BLACK EARTH EARTHING NEGATIVE LEAD CABLE WIRE STRAP | eBay

450mm Length. 16mm² Conductor (Cross sectional area) Flexible copper cable. Black PVC insulation. 110A Rated.

www.ebay.co.uk

1x Cable
450mm Length
8mm Ring terminal fitted on either end
Black PVC insulation
16mm² Conductor (Cross sectional area) Flexible copper cable
8.85mm Outside diameter
110A Rated

 

[L162LZ]

Herewith the cable I used for the earthing - my description of 6mm and the length was from memory. I think it is correct for the conductor though based on the insulated diameter being 8-9mm or thereabouts.

18" INCH 450mm CAR BATTERY BLACK EARTH EARTHING NEGATIVE LEAD CABLE WIRE STRAP | eBay

450mm Length. 16mm² Conductor (Cross sectional area) Flexible copper cable. Black PVC insulation. 110A Rated.

www.ebay.co.uk

1x Cable
450mm Length
8mm Ring terminal fitted on either end
Black PVC insulation
16mm² Conductor (Cross sectional area) Flexible copper cable
8.85mm Outside diameter
110A Rated

Thanks. I think the 6mm cable I've ordered works out about 18mm2 so pretty similar

 

[Alan_uk]

Thanks I've ordered some 6mm cable and some of these connectors (I'll solder them on and shrink wrap the ends), so im ready View attachment 116006

I did read in an electrical article that soldered joints are not recommended. Instead crimp. Unfortunately there are loads of different crimps with their specific crimping tool, some of which are quite expensive. Buying ready made seems the thing to do if available. I've got my wiper extra earth cable waiting to be fitted.

 

[L162LZ]

I did read in an electrical article that soldered joints are not recommended. Instead crimp. Unfortunately there are loads of different crimps with their specific crimping tool, some of which are quite expensive. Buying ready made seems the thing to do if available. I've got my wiper extra earth cable waiting to be fitted.

Thanks Alan, I can crimp if it's better. The reason to make them myself was so I could make them to suit and not have any additional "Spare" cable hanging around. Trying to keep it neat and tidy

 

[PlasticMac]

I did read in an electrical article that soldered joints are not recommended. Instead crimp. Unfortunately there are loads of different crimps with their specific crimping tool, some of which are quite expensive. Buying ready made seems the thing to do if available. I've got my wiper extra earth cable waiting to be fitted.

One of the potential problem with solder is vibration, causing fatigue type cracking.
But, it's pretty a slow, long term thing, and, for sure, a soldered lead is very much better than no lead.
Mac.

 

[Little Dog]

Just to add to Mac’s comment; also make sure you clean all of the flux off. I think white spirit gets it? Otherwise the copper will corrode.
I crimp these days, recently I replaced with crimps some terminals that were soldered early 1990s. Done right they can last.

 

[BigBang]

Solder in 99 was with Pb that is way less prone for cracking compared to solder used in current production which is lead free - higher melting point more prone for cracking etc.

 

[L162LZ]

Solder in 99 was with Pb that is way less prone for cracking compared to solder used in current production which is lead free - higher melting point more prone for cracking etc.

I have some old high lead content solder so was going to use that as assumed it would be more flexible

 

[Little Dog]

I have some old high lead content solder so was going to use that as assumed it would be more flexible

You can still buy it, it is what I use on everything but drinking water supply pipes.
As you don’t have insulation retaining tabs, tie wrap the cable to the same component the terminal is secured to. Then there can be no vibration fatigue.

 

[L162LZ]

Thanks everyone for all the comments and hints very much appreciated