Additive to Cure Piston Slap

66Beetle

66Beetle

A2OC Donor
Will any Oil Additives cure my 1.4 Petrol BBY Piston Slap at 120,000 Miles please ?

It does not burn any Oil.
 
Not really, once it is there only a rebore will fix it. But you could try going up one grade of oil but that can raise other issues, if you are going to add something try Slick50, best done on fresh oil and filter.
 
Who does this type of Engine Rebuilds ?
I have asked before about if anyone did Exchange Engines, or if a new Short Motor is available but nobody replied, I don't think.
 
Try the Slick50 may at least make it quieter, it only cost about £20. Any good engine shop is capable of a rebore. The same basic block is used in multiple VW group cars so there will be shops very capable. Do not know the area but a quick Google came up with Lancaster Engines and loads more. Not a recommendation from me just giving an example. No harm in phoning a few to get a rough idea of the price.
 
I believe with the 1.4 petrol the issue is it’s an aluminium block that once stripped down it’s no longer rigid and or distorts when the crank is unbolted - it may even be an alloy bore and then nicasil plated much like motor bike engines and rc model engines.
Not much help sorry. Mike
 
a2sumo said:
I believe with the 1.4 petrol the issue is it’s an aluminium block that once stripped down it’s no longer rigid and or distorts when the crank is unbolted - it may even be an alloy bore and then nicasil plated much like motor bike engines and rc model engines.
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That's correct Mike. Same with the 1.2Tdi ANY/AYZ.

RAB
 
So after seeing @a2sumo and @RAB comments. Does not look like a rebore is going to be easy if at all. Go for the Slick50 and live with it. From what others have said it does not keep getting worse. Engine swap probably a better long term option.
 
Also if it was piston slap, surely the engine would be consuming some oil?

RAB
 
No. It does not burn any Oil. I use the Quantum Gold Fully Synthetic. Don’t remember if that is 0 30 or 5 30.

I know Lancaster Engines, so have emailed to ask about a Rebore. Don’t think they remove or refit Engines from vehicles. Just carry out the work on Engines. I’ll maybe try the Slick 50 before A2 goes for Cam Belt Change and probably a New Clutch end of the month. Does the Slick 50 work that fast, if it is going to work ? Do you mean the Original Slick 50 or the Synthetic ? I tried Forte Oil Additive years ago. That did nothing to help the Piston Slap at all !
 
The oil in the A2 is synthetic so the synthetic is the one to get. Yes it works quickly just follow the instructions.
 
RAB said:
That's correct Mike. Same with the 1.2Tdi ANY/AYZ.

RAB
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To endorse A2sumo's and RAB's observations, an extract from the SSP which explains why the block can't be dis-assembled -

Cheers Spike
 

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I was going to chip in with the same info as Mike, Rab and spike, having had the exact same problem as you on our 1.4 and after researching - the Audi technicals say you can't undo the main bearings as the block will distort. Madness imho but there we are.Ours has very slight nock when cold at 95k and according to the experts it could go on for another 50k like that no problem as long as frequent oil changes are carried out.

Out of serious interest how many oil changes has the car had since new? I'm convinced long extended 2 year oil changes does an engine no good.

Cheers Mark.
 
It does seem to be that the BBY engine code seems to be more likely to be affected than the AUA. This is just from my own experience of numerous A2's. I wonder why that could be?
 
I wonder why too, as they are exactly the same blocks. The only difference is ignition ie; spark plug lead technology versus BBY coil on plug. I found out through my troubles that audi recognised this, article in the Telegraph i think it was, that the pistons needed modifying which they did but from memory wasn't until 2004.
 
The current piston (036107065AT001) is 0.01mm larger in diameter than the original (036107065AT or 036107065AL), so if there is no wear ridge in the cylinders, you may get away with just changing the pistons and rings.

RAB
 
Vorsprung durch Technik said:
I was going to chip in with the same info as Mike, Rab and spike, having had the exact same problem as you on our 1.4 and after researching - the Audi technicals say you can't undo the main bearings as the block will distort. Madness imho but there we are.Ours has very slight nock when cold at 95k and according to the experts it could go on for another 50k like that no problem as long as frequent oil changes are carried out.

Out of serious interest how many oil changes has the car had since new? I'm convinced long extended 2 year oil changes does an engine no good.

Cheers Mark.
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I’ll check on the number of Oil Changes and let you know. There may been more than are in the Service Book, done by myself.

Got me thinking though, I did use Millers VW Specific Non Longlife Oil for a while. It was 5 40 or something. Not 0 30 or 5 30 anyway. Might give it an Oil Change today if I still have some. See if that helps, with some Slick 50.
 
Checked on the Oil Changes. 9 in the Service Book. All since we got the A2 at only 1 year old. I’m sure there will have been at least 2 or 3 more done by me that are not in the book. Not got to 120,000 yet. About 119,750. Found I 5 Litres of Millers Trident Semi Synthetic VW Specific 5 40 so will change to that now.
 
66Beetle said:
Checked on the Oil Changes. 9 in the Service Book. All since we got the A2 at only 1 year old. I’m sure there will have been at least 2 or 3 more done by me that are not in the book. Not got to 120,000 yet. About 119,750. Found I 5 Litres of Millers Trident Semi Synthetic VW Specific 5 40 so will change to that now.
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It's not like it went as long 20,000 miles before an oil change so good in that respect. I'm changing my oil on the fsi we have now every 5k miles about 6 months, because of the roughly 50% of short journeys it makes.
 
Told a lie. The Millers Trident is FULLY Synthetic VW Specific 5 40.

It’s in now anyway. Just looking for the Sump Plug Torque Setting to finish off.
 
Sump Plug Torque Setting in lbft anyone please ?

I put the Slick 50 Synthetic Engine Oil Treatment in at lunch time today. How long before I should notice any difference ? Should I have tried Molyslip instead ? To be honest I thought the Piston Slap sounded less after changing the Oil last night to the Millers Trident 5w 40 VW 502 00 VW 505 00 or was I just kidding myself ?

Lancaster Engines, by the way, say £110 for a ReBore, so asked about the alleged warping of the Crankcase if the Main Bearing Caps are removed. Not heard back yet.
 
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