Additive to Cure Piston Slap

Does this help:
 
30Nm according to...
Or 22 lb/ft according to t'interweb.
 
Lancaster Engines, by the way, say £110 for a ReBore, so asked about the alleged warping of the Crankcase if the Main Bearing Caps are removed. Not heard back yet.

I don't think that a rebore is an option. Can you get oversize pistons? I suspect not. Also the cylinder bores are plasma coated; this will be removed by a rebore.

RAB
 
No idea about modern ( ish ) Engines. Have emailed VEGE UK to ask if they do a remanufactured BBY Engine.
 
You need to drive the car. The Slick50 is then fully distributed through the whole oil system and builds up a layer on the metal surfaces, can take a few hundred miles for the Teflon to reach the desired thickness. The difference is most noticeable in an engine that has had no other oil treatment. you will start to notice quieter tick over and better initial starting. Take it out for a good long run using the rev range.
 
Got no faith in the Slick 50 yet. I still think the Engine was quieter after changing the Oil to Non Longlife Full Synthetic Millers Trident 5w 40 VW 502 00 / 505 00. Adding the Slick 50 Synthetic Oil Treatment just made it noisy again. Only done around 100 miles on it so far driving to work and back Friday, Saturday, Sunday but onall types of roads. Country lanes, where we live, A roads, Motorway, Dual Carriage way. All speeds, and I mean ALL Speeds !
 
It will have only done 250 miles or so since I changed the Oil and put the Slick 50 in. I am told Rebore is not possible due to Plasma Coating on Cylinder Walls, that and the Cylinder Block will warp if the Main Bearing Caps are unbolted. Unless there is someone who carries out Specialist Rebuilds ? Harpers Cumbria tell me the only thing they would do is to fit a new Short Motor. Not yet found out if VAG still supply a new Short Motor. The baffler is why does it not burn any Oil ? A2 is going to Harpers May 28th for overdue Cam Belt and Water Pump Change, and to assess if it needs a new Clutch. A lot of money to spend on it but the main thing is we need it to keep going for now. The thought of buying a nice fully functional “ Spare A2 “ is still attractive to me.
 
So why are you convinced there is piston slap and not a lazy or out of adjustment valve. Using too thick a grade of oil can have a bigger detrimental effect by reducing oil flow to critical areas, making the pump work harder and when cold the engine harder to turn over. If it is going in on the 28th then probably not that many more miles on it. As the instruction says put it in and take it for a run to circulate it quickly, by just putting it in and walking away all that gets the fresh coating is the sump.
 
Hi just to add my 50 cents, firstly additive might work for a short while but not long term. So the cure open engine and measure . These engines had some units with quick wearing skirts , to my knowledge the blocks were mostly good . If coated ceremic bore then normally very hard wearing ,in this case you can hone and fit pistons and problem is gone , some of the engines cannot have the crank removed ,this is nor a problem as the bearings normally last forever ,,,, .So if you like the car and are able to tackle job it is worth it as new pistons can make a huge difference in noise and performance ,if you look on ebay.de you can find better than original pistons for about € 300 , whilst apart check rod small ends , replace valve stem seals all gaskets and rod bolts and head bolts so cost around €650, forget the additive route ....
Al
 
Just to add ,the BBY engine is cast iron liner, so can be machined , in a way a pity as the ceramic bores are normally lasting 400 to 500000 km,
Just looked on Ebay you can get kit including everything for € 200 plus transport plus sundries.
 
The piston slap noise is generated by the piston rocking in the bore and is usually caused by wear of the piston skirt (lower part of the piston). If the rings are good and the bore not worn then no reason why it should burn oil despite the slap. Only possible cure I think would be to replace the pistons or just live with it.

Simon
 
Well I only know whatever people are telling me. Not the facts. Cast Iron Liners so it can be rebored ? Plasma Coated so it can not be rebored ? Who knows ? All I do know is that until 60,000 miles i.e. 60,000 miles ago as of yesterday, the engine was so silent that people walking down the middle of our 20 mph country lane could not hear you driving up behind them. They can now ! Maybe it is not Piston Slap but noisy Tappets ? How would I know, except from what people tell me it is ?
 
Hi ,so firstly you can get oversize pistons ,this indicates you can rebore. The engines are available on ebay for €150 , pistons are cheap ,so I would rebuild ,I am not sure about the crank thing ,I suspect this is only valid for the ceramic bore in which case they seldom wear anyway (fit standard pistons).
If you measure the bore and wear is 0.02 mm then hone in situ and and fit new pistons .If more wear you need to remove engine stripp down completely and re bore at professional machine shop . the difference between bore and piston is normally around 0.05 mm .....
Al
 
The problem with the ceramic coating is it is super thin, cannot bore ,,, ,so honing does almost nothing as it is so hard . I thought there was 2 different aluminium type engines so stand to correction . If you have coated engine this is good news as said previously ,then get standard size pistons . if you take the old ones out and the diamond turning is gone they are worn ! a simple test is to see if your finger nail makes a noise when you scrape the skirt . Al
 
My impressions regarding piston slap were that it was due to gradual wear causing the piston head to have freedom to move and eventually contact the cylinder wall directly - surely that is something that starts gradually and becomes more noticeable over time?

You are rather suggesting that it happened overnight and was dramatic in onset...

I’ve got no ear for engine noises but tappet race in my VW was like a hail of ball bearings being poured on a tin sheet which settled after a few minutes of driving.

I’d get a mechanic to stick an ear on or maybe post a sound clip/you tube video on here - that’s what I did and many helpful diagnoses ensued.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
My impressions regarding piston slap were that it was due to gradual wear causing the piston head to have freedom to move and eventually contact the cylinder wall directly - surely that is something that starts gradually and becomes more noticeable over time?

You are rather suggesting that it happened overnight and was dramatic in onset...

I’ve got no ear for engine noises but tappet race in my VW was like a hail of ball bearings being poured on a tin sheet which settled after a few minutes of driving.

I’d get a mechanic to stick an ear on or maybe post a sound clip/you tube video on here - that’s what I did and many helpful diagnoses ensued.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
You have to read it carefully, slow development over 60,000 miles starting from 60,000miles.

I do agree the best course of action is to pop into local friendly garage and ask a mechanic to listen. Free of charge I expect if they think some work coming their way.

Andy
 
Was the cam belt changed 60000 miles ago? Lazy tappets or gummed up? Timing not correct, tensioner failing or failed, even the belt with a frayed edge can make some strange noises. Let the garage who is going to change the belt check it out. If not in the area they are working on should be able to tell you what is wrong. Just do not ask them directly " do you think it is piston slap " Water pump and alternator can both make strange noises. So there are a few other things it could be.
 
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