Another CCU Issue

Thanks guys it was Audi Shrewsbury!!

The front passenger window failed first but worked off the driver switch and the fob. Then the fuel flap failed to open so had to manual for a while, but that works now. Then the driver switches failed and left the windows slightly down, now windows fail to operate via the switches and key fob (The technician put them back up manually - something for £60).Also sometimes the battery won’t hold charge and fails to start, so I let it roll abit to move the alternator position and then fires up. However, the alternator was replaced about 3 years ago. When I first got the car it would lose power, so went to Audi and they fixed easily I believe it was a wiring loom problem. So that’s the history guys - I reckon it’s the ccu but Tim you may have encountered these symptoms before?
 
Thanks for the summary, Bobby.

The front passenger window failed first but worked off the driver switch and the fob.
If it was working from the driver's master switch and the fob, but not the passenger's switch, then the passenger's switch or wiring is the likely cause. Either way, this isn't a CCCU issue.

Then the fuel flap failed to open so had to manual for a while, but that works now.
This is caused by a fault in the driver's door lock assembly. There's a solder joint that cracks due to the repeated opening/closing of the door. Cracked solder joints result in intermittent behaviour.

Then the driver switches failed and left the windows slightly down, now windows fail to operate via the switches and key fob.
This sounds like the software in the driver's DCM (door control module) crashed, which is known the happen. Starving the DCM of power resets the DCM, but results in the key fob operation of the windows not working until the DCM has been 'taught' the window's limits of travel.

Also sometimes the battery won’t hold charge
The early CCCUs (models Q, P, E, N, etc) are known the drain the battery when they go wrong, but this doesn't happen with the later versions, as fitted to your car.

...fails to start, so I let it roll a bit to move the alternator position and then fires up. However, the alternator was replaced about 3 years ago.
None of this is related to the CCCU.

I reckon it’s the ccu but Tom you may have encountered these symptoms before?
No, it's definitely not the CCCU. You have a rash of other minor faults that are adding up to give the impression of a faulty CCCU, but the CCCU is not to blame.

Again, I'm happy to fix all of this for you if you desire.

Cheers,

Tom
 
Thanks for the summary, Bobby.


If it was working from the driver's master switch and the fob, but not the passenger's switch, then the passenger's switch or wiring is the likely cause. Either way, this isn't a CCCU issue.


This is caused by a fault in the driver's door lock assembly. There's a solder joint that cracks due to the repeated opening/closing of the door. Cracked solder joints result in intermittent behaviour.


This sounds like the software in the driver's DCM (door control module) crashed, which is known the happen. Starving the DCM of power resets the DCM, but results in the key fob operation of the windows not working until the DCM has been 'taught' the window's limits of travel.


The early CCCUs (models Q, P, E, N, etc) are known the drain the battery when they go wrong, but this doesn't happen with the later versions, as fitted to your car.


None of this is related to the CCCU.


No, it's definitely not the CCCU. You have a rash of other minor faults that are adding up to give the impression of a faulty CCCU, but the CCCU is not to blame.

Again, I'm happy to fix all of this for you if you desire.

Cheers,

Tom
Hi Tom,

Thanks for the detailed reply to the various points I mentioned.

If you can get the windows working again and it’s not the cccu I’ll be absolutely thrilled.

So how much would you charge for this work and where abouts in Lancaster are you? I have family in Manchester, so could come up one weekend.

Also, if I found an A2 sat nat/ media I it would you be able to fit that and whilst radios out replace one of my cup holders have been meaning to do it, but I might just get all my jobs done from you if I’m travelling up from Telford.

Cheers Bobby
 
Bobby, I've sent you a reply via private message. At the top of this screen, you should see a little envelope with a red marker, indicating new mail in your inbox. :)

Cheers,

Tom
 
Remote section and key(with transponder) sections are individual with good reason. When changing CCU, the key section can be swapped over to the 'new' remote section without any reprogramming. If a used CCU is supplied with as many 'fobs' as required then it's a plug and play swap with no need to use VCDS.
I'm in the midst of swapping ALOT of parts off my breaker FSI onto my project tdi. The tdi has a q version cccu the fsi an af version and there are 2 keys with the fsi. I understand the af is more reliable? So. If I take out the cccu from the fsi and put it in the tdi all I need to do is swap the lower half of the fsi keys onto the tdi keys and I'm good to go? Cheers
 
I'm in the midst of swapping ALOT of parts off my breaker FSI onto my project tdi. The tdi has a q version cccu the fsi an af version and there are 2 keys with the fsi. I understand the af is more reliable? So. If I take out the cccu from the fsi and put it in the tdi all I need to do is swap the lower half of the fsi keys onto the tdi keys and I'm good to go? Cheers
Yes, I believe so.
 
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