Any tips for reattaching the handbrake cable (without the tool)

If your buying a flaring tool you can simply cut and join the pipes close to the cylinders if they are not corroded
 
Ah, thanks - I'll have to source the correct kit now 😞

Any tips on how to stop the fluid leak? I've got a couple of hose grips on, but it's still leaking, tried bending the pipe too. Would fitting a bolt in the union where the metal pipe meets the rubber hose work?
Press brakepedal in an inch or so? Stops all fluid leak
 
If your buying a flaring tool you can simply cut and join the pipes close to the cylinders if they are not corroded
Maybe worth a shout, but if I'm going to do it, I may as well do it right - I've ordered a set of rubber hoses too.

I noticed today that the leaking pipe hasn't held as well as I thought. I checked the reservoir and it was below the minimum (but not empty). I've filled it up and 100% fixed the leak - please tell me I *shouldn't have any bother when it comes to refilling and bleeding the system!?

*Won't! 🤞
 
Highly doubt it but would highly recommend pressure bleeding the system as pushing the pedal all the way to the floor risks damage to master cylinder so if pedal pushing is to be used only go half way and maybe put some wood under the pedal
 
Highly doubt it but would highly recommend pressure bleeding the system as pushing the pedal all the way to the floor risks damage to master cylinder so if pedal pushing is to be used only go half way and maybe put some wood under the pedal
Good tip about the wood, but I'll look at investing in a pressure bleeder
 
In fairness a pressure bleeder pays for itself the first use as a brake fluid change is around £50 I would imagine and there is certainly a difference of opinion as to what a "BFC" is, doing it yourself is definitely the best way, ideally extract all the fluid out of reservoir and fill with fresh prior to commencing! (which you have basically already done)
 
Update

Still waiting on the correct flaring tool to arrive, but in the meantime, the cheap kit from eBay arrived. On inspection, it seems ok(ish). I wasn't 100% happy about using the pipe. I'm sure it'll be fine, but using no branded cheap pipe from China might not be the best. I went to Halfords this morning and bought some more pipe and fittings (again, I'm sure the cheap ones will be ok, but I'm not taking any chances when it comes to brakes)
The pipe from Halfords has manufacture markings, where the eBay one has none, plus it feels different.

I wanted to replace the rubber hoses too, but I've had a bit of bother. I managed to loose the union, but I can't get the hose out of the bracket, there is a clip at the back, which I removed, but the pipe seems stuck, does it have to be twisted or something? I've managed to cap off the steel pipe, but I've got proper covered in brake fluid today 😕
 

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I recall that they should just come out once the clip is removed. Could be corroded in. Try some penetration fluid like Plusgas (but not WD4).
 
Cheers, Alan. I'll have another go at it tomorrow - I've had my fill of brake fluid dripping down my arm for today!
 
I wanted to replace the rubber hoses too, but I've had a bit of bother. I managed to loose the union, but I can't get the hose out of the bracket, there is a clip at the back, which I removed, but the pipe seems stuck, does it have to be twisted or something?
😕
The hose end is often cleverly made so it cant spin in the bracket. So twisting is fruitless.
Just pull/lever/press it out of the bracket.
 
I think @CrispyEdd has a trick for minimising fluid loss. Push and hold the brake pedal down. Never tried it myself but will next time I get brake fluid down my sleeve.
 
As you are not returning your low cost brake pipe kit knock up a few plugs for female connectors. Stops fluid loss during maintenance.
Flare a short length of pipe and fit a connector. Bash the open end of the pipe flat with a hammer. Most times they seal sometimes a splash of solder is required. Keep in toolbox and use to plug female brake connectors 👍
 
Semi-final update

The correct flaring tool arrived, attached images of a test run on the cheap pipe - it's right what they say; buy cheap, buy twice. The new flaring tool is a good bit of kit, and it worked a treat.

Replaced the rubber hoses (they probably didn't need replacing, but it's done now), it was a bit of a nightmare to get them out and the new ones in, I came very close to cross threading the union nut on assembly, and the retaining clips were a sod to get back on.

Pipe work has also been done, it's not 100% perfect as the original, but it's there, I had to cut the old offside pipe, so I was bending the replacement a bit blind - I think it'll be ok.

Light is fading now, so I'll refill/bleed the system tomorrow and hope for the best! Thanks for the tips guys, much appreciated.
 

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You may need VCDS to bleed the system. The VCDS opens each valve for each corner in the ABS pump. A couple of videos on YT.
I think I may need VCDS 😞
Nothing coming from the rear when trying to bleed the system.

Can anyone tell me what I need? Do I need an old laptop and buy the software or will a Windows 11 laptop work?

*I used a cheap (yes I know), eBay pressure bleed kit, I pumped it to 10 psi and it held pressure for 5 mins. Started the bleeding process and the lid on the bleed kit cracked, p*ssing brake fluid over the engine bay. Resorted to the old fashioned way of doing it, but nothing came out. Would a decent pressure kit do the job or am I in bother?
 
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