Audi A2 1.6 FSI High Pressure Fuel pump

If anyone has a duff pump, a strip down, and measure of the groove widths and ""cylinder" bores would give us the answers I think. These dimensions would enable an "O" ring supplier to recommend suitable items.
Would need a good quality vernier. I'd guess the expertise is present here ...
Mac.
 
PlasticMac said:
If anyone has a duff pump, a strip down, and measure of the groove widths and ""cylinder" bores would give us the answers I think. These dimensions would enable an "O" ring supplier to recommend suitable items.
Would need a good quality vernier. I'd guess the expertise is present here ...
Mac.
Click to expand...
Just tried, I get 50 mm that is with verier on top of the O ring on both sides, can not remove O ring, sorry, hope this helps, Ami
 
Evripidis said:
Hello,

Does anybody have the o-ring dimensions please?

Evros
Click to expand...

Hi,

O-ring is 17,5 mm inner diameter and 1,5mm thickness, so outer diameter is 20,5mm. Material must be viton/FKM.
However, changing o-rings did not solved my high pressure fuel pump issue. Any other ideas?
 
Hi,

Thanks a lot. The o-ring supplier around here does not always carry a full stock, so I want to ask them first before taking it apart.

I cannot help you any further I am afraid. I am just trying to figure out where a sudden and momentary dip in power comes from around 2.7k RPM. There is a lot of judder as well on take of but the car needs a clutch anyway.

I'll post any improvements.

Evros
 
Evripidis said:
Hi,

Thanks a lot. The o-ring supplier around here does not always carry a full stock, so I want to ask them first before taking it apart.

I cannot help you any further I am afraid. I am just trying to figure out where a sudden and momentary dip in power comes from around 2.7k RPM. There is a lot of judder as well on take of but the car needs a clutch anyway.

I'll post any improvements.

Evros
Click to expand...
A scan might save a lot of time (trouble and money).
Mac.
 
Evripidis said:
Hi,

Thanks a lot. The o-ring supplier around here does not always carry a full stock, so I want to ask them first before taking it apart.

I cannot help you any further I am afraid. I am just trying to figure out where a sudden and momentary dip in power comes from around 2.7k RPM. There is a lot of judder as well on take of but the car needs a clutch anyway.

I'll post any improvements.

Evros
Click to expand...

Looks like I have same issue. When driving, after ~2,7k RPM I have sudden cut of power. If I press gas pedal veeery slowly, then I can go higher that 2,7k. When in neutral gear, I can raise RPM to almost maximum without any problems.
So far I have replaced fuel pump in a fuel tank and o-rings inside high pressure fuel pump, but no luck. On diagnostics I get some error for low pressure, so I think problem is inside high pressure fuel pump itself. But it is very difficult to find a replacement in my area.
Maybe there is some repair/refurbishing service for these pumps?
 
Verified again today while on the motorway. There is a place where I live that do refurbishments but they have been known to only replace the seals and o-rings. A bit futile really. I also had a broken flap actuator which I replaced ages ago and wondering whether the calibration that I performed was incorrect. I both calibrated the throttle body and the flaps as prescribed but the "dip" remained. Well all that remains I suppose are completely fouled intake valves.
 
For high pressure fuel pump I find two part numbers, numbers are the same, but letter at the end is ether K or J:
036127025K
036127025J

Maybe someone know what is the difference between them? Are they both compatible?
 
cigasė said:
For high pressure fuel pump I find two part numbers, numbers are the same, but letter at the end is ether K or J:
036127025K
036127025J

Maybe someone know what is the difference between them? Are they both compatible?
Click to expand...
7zap only currently lists the K version yet the J version can be found on eBay. I would think, like other part trailing letters, J is the earlier version, superseded by K, and not being aware of any change in spec to the BAD engine in production years I expect both to be compatible, the change probably coming about due to minor improvement(s) in design or change in supplier.

Might be worth putting an ad in the Wanted forum on here, I have seen @A2Steve sell a few if you would accept used.

Andy
 
jackwickers2003 said:
Some pictures for all you 1.6 FSI owners that have high pressure fuel pumps. Mine started to fail due to worn seals. Normally a very expensive fix but i managed to sort it for the cost of rubber o rings. I hope this helps people understand how to fix it their selves in the future and save hundreds!View attachment 63330View attachment 63331
The picture above shows the internals of my high pressure fuel pump. The next picture shows which o ring failed causing loss of power above 3k revvs.View attachment 63332
The next few pictures are screenshots that hopefully help people in the future.View attachment 63335View attachment 63334
Click to expand...

Hello, hav there any EML light and a fault code appeared with such a pump?

I have a reappearing "Air leak in the intake manifold" that comes back every 2-3 weeks and a garage suggested that it might
be a faulty High Pressure fuel pump since 2 smoke tests in 2 different garages did not show any traces of smoke appearing anywhere...

Thanks,

Andrei
 
gromand said:
Hello, hav there any EML light and a fault code appeared with such a pump?

I have a reappearing "Air leak in the intake manifold" that comes back every 2-3 weeks and a garage suggested that it might
be a faulty High Pressure fuel pump since 2 smoke tests in 2 different garages did not show any traces of smoke appearing anywhere...

Thanks,

Andrei
Click to expand...
I had this problem on one of my fsi's, it wasn't related to the fuel pump. in my case it was exactly as the warning code. When i checked the bolts holding the air intake manifold on, two of the bolts were very loose. after I sorted out the reason why this had happened and tightened the bolts that cleared the code, and the car ran much better.. It might be as simple as tightening the bolts if they weren't tightened sufficiently after a manifold change, could be dodgey gaskets or splits elsewhere in the air take system. Check the bolts are tight, allen key needed. Then start at the filter box on the front left and check the piping and connections to the top of the engine too to make sure nothing is loose / holed. There are a couple of more difficult to access parts at the rear of the engine to check also if non of that looks suspect. hope that helps.
 
nod said:
I had this problem on one of my fsi's, it wasn't related to the fuel pump. in my case it was exactly as the warning code. When i checked the bolts holding the air intake manifold on, two of the bolts were very loose. after I sorted out the reason why this had happened and tightened the bolts that cleared the code, and the car ran much better.. It might be as simple as tightening the bolts if they weren't tightened sufficiently after a manifold change, could be dodgey gaskets or splits elsewhere in the air take system. Check the bolts are tight, allen key needed. Then start at the filter box on the front left and check the piping and connections to the top of the engine too to make sure nothing is loose / holed. There are a couple of more difficult to access parts at the rear of the engine to check also if non of that looks suspect. hope that helps.
Click to expand...
ps i too had a smoke test done and it didn't show anything....
 
nod said:
I had this problem on one of my fsi's, it wasn't related to the fuel pump. in my case it was exactly as the warning code. When i checked the bolts holding the air intake manifold on, two of the bolts were very loose. after I sorted out the reason why this had happened and tightened the bolts that cleared the code, and the car ran much better.. It might be as simple as tightening the bolts if they weren't tightened sufficiently after a manifold change, could be dodgey gaskets or splits elsewhere in the air take system. Check the bolts are tight, allen key needed. Then start at the filter box on the front left and check the piping and connections to the top of the engine too to make sure nothing is loose / holed. There are a couple of more difficult to access parts at the rear of the engine to check also if non of that looks suspect. hope that helps.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the info. Have not even thought that a smoke test could be so unreliable, so-to-say...

And what are/where are those "a couple of more difficult to access parts at the rear of the engine to check"?
 
I'm not sure what they are called, but its a black corrugated plastic pipe and box that links across the back of the upper manifold, I also had a problem with a split pipe and dodgey connection there, it made a big difference when fixed to how smooth the engine ran.
 
nod said:
I'm not sure what they are called, but its a black corrugated plastic pipe and box that links across the back of the upper manifold, I also had a problem with a split pipe and dodgey connection there, it made a big difference when fixed to how smooth the engine ran.
Click to expand...
Have you any pictures ?
Thanks,
Ami
 
Hi im new here im just asking how can i open high fuel pressure pump, what kind of key is need it. I tryid with some crowbar and didnt cracked
 
Note on smoke tests.

I had two smoke tests done on my car. It wasn't until the second garage sent my car away for a 3rd higher pressure smoke test did they finally find my air leak. Which fixed my cars problems. Most of it from the lower part of the oil dip stick section was the problem.

From reading these posts I am still not crystal clear what I need to buy to service my failing high pressure fuel pump.

"O-ring is 17,5 mm inner diameter and 1,5mm thickness, so outer diameter is 20,5mm. Material must be viton/FKM."


Is the above information correct and how many do I need and/or any other sizes required to replace other o-rings?

Many thanks,
 
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