Audi a2 rear brake line help

Sam212001

Member
Hi all.

I had a brake leak which I traced to my rear driver side wheel.
Upon opening it I found the brake drum caked in gunk.
I managed to take the hub off but got stuck when trying to remove the brake line from the hub.
I thought I was loosening a nut but ended up twisting the brake line right off.
Now I'm stuck.
Could anyone help with telling me which part I need and if it's a big job requiring any special tools.
I asked a local mechanic who told me il need a special tool to replace.
Any help or guidance will be appreciated.
 

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Needs new brake pipe making up, wheel cylinder and shoes set, best to fit both wheel cylinders but could have the same issue with the pipe on the other side
 
I plan to replace the brake cylinder and brake shoes and springs. Parts have already been ordered.
Just the part about making a new brake pipe, who would make it for me?
Thanks
 
Most garages have a flaring tool so measure the length add an inch and get one made up! Some motorists discount places also make brake pipes. Imagine its op1 both ends with standard euro male ends
 
Just trying to work out why you took so much off? Either just replace the cylinder leaving everything else in place or reseal the cylinder. As Howey has said a good garage can make replacement rigid pipes for you and suggest getting both as you will have to change the shoes on both sides and probably want to change the other cylinder also. Too late now but if you rotate the slave cylinder around the brake pipe there is LESS chance of the end shearing off. What condition are the brake drums and are they near the maximum wear limit?
 
Just trying to work out why you took so much off? Either just replace the cylinder leaving everything else in place or reseal the cylinder. As Howey has said a good garage can make replacement rigid pipes for you and suggest getting both as you will have to change the shoes on both sides and probably want to change the other cylinder also. Too late now but if you rotate the slave cylinder around the brake pipe there is LESS chance of the end shearing off. What condition are the brake drums and are they near the maximum wear limit?
Hi,

I was under the impression that because the leak was coming from the cylinder that the cylinder must be knackered so was trying to remove the cylinder but the bolt that holds the cylinder in was rusted.
Hence the removal of the whole hub to try drill the bolt to remove the cylinder.
I also was planning on cleaning the back plate.
Hope that makes sense. Yeh It probably was over kill on my part, and the worst part was I knew before hand about being careful with the brake line but I thought I was loosening the bolt, before realising I snapped it off.
 
OOPS. I would find a flex pipe near to the sheared end and clamp the brake line. You do not want to empty the line into the ABS pump. You will still need to bleed the brakes after the repair. As said you can use the innards from a new cylinder provided no scoring in the bore as a reseal kit so the cylinder body does not have to be removed from the back plate.
Normally the cylinder does not come with the bolt, although some suppliers may bundle it in.
 
The brake lines for the back are still available from Audi if you can't make your own. Undo the brake fluid fill cap and stretch cling film over the opening. Replace the cap. This will stop the whole system bleeding dry. You will still need to bleed your brakes when you are done.
 
Oh and when you go to have the pipes made up try to get them made with Cupra Nickel kunifer as longer lasting and form bends better than plain copper
 
The brake lines for the back are still available from Audi if you can't make your own. Undo the brake fluid fill cap and stretch cling film over the opening. Replace the cap. This will stop the whole system bleeding dry. You will still need to bleed your brakes when you are done.
Hi,
What do you mean by replace the cap, buy a new one?
 
Hi,
What do you mean by replace the cap, buy a new one?
He means when you put the cap back on. If you have latex gloves, I'd use that instead of cling film. So, remove brake fluid reservoir cap, stretch glove or cling film (or similar) over the filling hole and put the cap back on. This will help stop fluid escape by creating an air lock.
 
Hi,
What do you mean by replace the cap, buy a new one?
No refit cap to create a vacumm in order to stop further fluid leakage.
If you have a vice you could always crush the end of a old pipe and union to make a stopper
 
No refit cap to create a vacumm in order to stop further fluid leakage.
If you have a vice you could always crush the end of a old pipe and union to make a stopper
Lol,

That makes sense.
I'm assuming it's really bad if the car drains it self off brake fluid.

Thanks
 
Its air locks in the abs pump best avoided but at the same time abs pumps are replaced and no major issues appear to be reported!
 
Cling film does not stop the line from the ABS to the open rear pipe from draining hence the need as I said before to find a flexible pipe if possible or worst case just flatten and roll up the end of the broken pipe. Do not switch the engine on with the pipe in its current condition nor press the brake pedal. There is a more complex bleeding process once air has entered the ABS pump that needs more time, more fluid and VCDS to selectively energise the ABS pump to prime it.
The replace the cap would have read better as Refit the cap.
 
Yes, re fit cap. No need for a new cap. Creates a seal and air lock as comments above and helps prevent loss of all the fluid. Clamp also a good idea as Audifan states. I priced up new pipes for mine last week and was surprised how cheap they were from Audi. In the end mine were ok so they were not required.
 
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