Audi A2 throttle body

Glenn71

Member
Hi I have a Audi A2 1,4 Petrol 2002.
The throttle body is not working and the repair shop estimated the repair to be £1500,-
I will fix it but the dealer gave me the right part number, but the part is not the same.
I don't know if it is a vacuumed line? Can I block the hole and use it?

Regards
Glenn
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Can you tell us what the part number is you have been given?

4 years ago the TB on my AUA-engine car was full of tar and gunk as well as many other problems of mileage and nonexistent maintenance so I replaced it with one bought off Amazon (I didn't have the cash at the time to invest in a Pierburg or similar OEM-grade part - but I was able to fit it, adapt it with my Xtools VAG401, and is still working fine).

Looking at it, if that hose connector feeds through to the hole visible in the metal on the right-hand part, I would imagine that fitting some pipe with a 6mm screw turned into it to cap the tube off should work - but I would wait until someone competent answers the question!

The biggest issue is ensuring that any other issues that could cause fault codes preventing adaptation from happening properly are resolved - and then perform adaptation so that it works properly.

£1500 is criminal...
 
Agree with Robin. Blocking off completely that port should work but it needs to be completely sealed. Any other issues need to be resolved.

All other dimensions and ports look the same but do not know if there are any electrical differences.
 
Thanks for the fast reply.
The part number for the defect one is 036 133 062 N and the part number the Audi dealer ment was the right on is 036 133 062 L.
If I bought the part from my Audi dealer it was £1000,- and from Europart £260,- :oops:
 
the final letter is usually an important qualifier for variants. If you look - the metal casting of your original has the blank for the additional pipe on the new one, so clearly it is used in one variant of the 1.4i engine in a VAG vehicle.

In either case the price is crazy. When I was looking for a TB the quality reputation Pierburg or similar parts were ~£200 that I simply couldn't afford. I think mine was around £60 from memory.
 
My guess is the A2 has the intermediate flange below the TB that has a pipe connection on it and the other VAG application does not have this intermediate flange hence the port on the TB itself.

If you are lucky the blanking cap on the original throttle body can be removed and once the fitting removed the blank may be suitable to seal the port. If the fitting is pressed in or threaded in the banking cap may not be suitable.
 
My guess is the A2 has the intermediate flange below the TB that has a pipe connection on it and the other VAG application does not have this intermediate flange hence the port on the TB itself.

If you are lucky the blanking cap on the original throttle body can be removed and once the fitting removed the blank may be suitable to seal the port. If the fitting is pressed in or threaded in the banking cap may not be suitable.

looks like the original doesn't have the casting drilled out at all - the difference between the two parts is that the new one is machined to have the extra port that now needs to be blanked off somehow. In the shot that shows the interior of the rather grubby TB you can see that there is no hole there, whereas there is one in the new part.

 
Thanks, I will try to block that one out. That should not be to hard. Is it possible to do the adaptation without vcds.
Some say that it will learn by it self. I don't have vcds, so I guess this will cost another £100-200 at an workshop.
 
Get yourself an Xtools VAG401. Cost should be ~ under £40. Or proper VCDS for slightly more - although it will pay for itself over time. The VAG401 will adapt a TB providing all the other faults are resolved to allow adaptation to take place. All of the rumours online that you can get the TB to adapt itself by disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes, reciting the Lords' prayer backwards and sacrificing something in a ritual and variations thereof are somewhat less than accurate.
 
Throttle bodies on petrol cars usually have some coolant flow going through some jackets on the inside. You can block them using solder or my personal favourite; a small length of glue-lined heatshrink.
 
I remember this one when I needed a new TB, as mentioned above, the last letter is crucial.
The different one is for the later models.
What was exactly quoted £1500? Are you getting a gold bar with it? o_O
 
Have a look at this video from @mtl which will walk you through how to remove the throttle body and you can then decide if it’s a job you can take on yourself.


It might be worth putting out a post for any Norwegian club members that have a copy of VCDS and therefore might be able help with the adaption.

J
 
I remember this one when I needed a new TB, as mentioned above, the last letter is crucial.
The different one is for the later models.
What was exactly quoted £1500? Are you getting a gold bar with it? o_O
Audi dealership in Norway are ripoff. So I rather order online thirdparty parts.
 
Adaptation did not work at first. Got the error message. But after reading I tried again, now with some more juice on the battery, and the coolant temp at 80. And that did it. So now the car works again. Thanks for all the help! :D
 
looks like the original doesn't have the casting drilled out at all - the difference between the two parts is that the new one is machined to have the extra port that now needs to be blanked off somehow. In the shot that shows the interior of the rather grubby TB you can see that there is no hole there, whereas there is one in the new part.
As a quick try you cut a small length of hose to go over the pipe connection and plug the other end with a bolt plus a couple of jubilee clips. If it works you haven't altered anything and can do a permanent fix.
 
As a quick try you cut a small length of hose to go over the pipe connection and plug the other end with a bolt plus a couple of jubilee clips. If it works you haven't altered anything and can do a permanent fix.
I removed the brass and tapped the hole and put a bolt with some fitting tape on in the hole. So it's all sealed up.
 
I celebrated to soon. I used the car yesterday in the worst time of the day, and the car suddenly stalled and all the lights in the dashboard come on.
This is the fault message i get.
2 Faults Found:
17989 - Throttle Actuator (J338)
P1581 - 35-00 - Basic Setting Not Performed
17961 - Barometric / Manifold Pressure Signals
P1553 - 35-10 - Implausible Correlation - Intermittent
Readiness: 0010 0101
I have now used VCDS and gone trough engine, basic, 060 go. And gotten adp.ok.
Have done this several times but I can drive the car 500-1000 meters and all the lights come on, and when I turn the engine off and start it again it is only the engine lamp that is on.

Is there anybody who have a possible solution to this?

Regards
Glenn
 
Just possible that "all lights.." is a separate electrical fault. When you scan, is it a full auto scan, or are you just scanning the engine?
Check battery and connections.
Can you give a bit more info on what you mean by "all lights"
Mac.
 
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