Auto headlight conversion with coming home/ leaving home lights

The seller responded with the following link for the android phones.
As usual it has not translated well but I have (I think) figured it out via trial and error) here goes. My comments are in bold.

Android version
Use this link:
https://yunpan.360.cn/surl_y3WXcYAJ3ZA
It gives you a Chinese screen Like this one or similar.
DCDAD6C7-055B-4AF1-977F-EC19BA3343E7.jpeg

On this screen (or the similar one) you enter the code 4812 on the line in the centre and click on the green bar
You then follow the next link (it then gives you the download icon for the new android apk). Iit should look like the screenshot below. It looks promising! Click on the CFA link.

Fingers crossed but do read the below advice about pairing !!!!!!!!!!
you do not pair it via your phone bluetooth’s option, you must pair it via the app and the code it asks for is 123456

0AB6143D-E9CA-4C58-9201-AB33731841E1.png


They also sent these instructions about pairing and please remember you don’t pair the switch to your phone via a Bluetooth scan at all. You ONLY. Pair it via the app. (With your Bluetooth switched on of course)
you HAVE to ensure that you have only just switched on the ignition because it will only try to find the switch for a very short period
.

Their pairing instructions are as follows
some Notes about Bluetooth Connection:

1,After car power is on, please connect app with the switch as soon as possible, otherwise, bluetooth will be closed automatically 3 minutes later. (I think they mean three SECONDS! It certainly isn’t three minutes)

if switch is not on Auto position (0 on the standard A2 icon ring) , light will keep flashing for 3 minutes, it means that you can connect the switch with app. (So you need to see the light on the icon ring flashing and you then know that it is pairing ) if you don't connect it in 3 minutes, bluetooth will be closed automatically, AUTO light will stop flashing.



2,you don't need to do the pairing manually,

just open the bluetooth. after engine/power start, then you can do the bluetooth connection.

I hope that this helps?

Please post your results on here


Steve B
 
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I have now added the updated section for Android users to my Installation manual. This should work !!!!!!!

Please have a look, let me know if there are any errors and if you succeed or not.

Steve B
 

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PLEASE NOTE, after I produced the instructions the screens seem to have changed, the link will still work but the screens may look different. I will update the instructions later, sorry.
But Android users should be able to get to the correct app via the link.

Steve B
 
Also note when pairing, the instructions say to have the switch on 0 when you turn on the ignition. (iPhone AND Android)

That is OFF on the standard icon ring

Also note that even iPhone users will sometimes need a couple of attempts at pairing (remember ONLY pair it via the app and not via the Bluetooth settings on the phone)



I am determined to get the Android issue sorted out. It really should work if you are following the instructions above.

Steve B
 
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Even on my ipad the initial connection has to be done whilst set at 0 - it seems to broadcast and connect BT at 0, then you move to Auto once connectivity established.
 
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@Birchall you should be getting some kind of kick-back from the seller with all this effort you're going to help take-up of his product!

10/10 for community contribution.
Steve is a top fella. Not new to the A2 but new to the FSI met with him last week VCDs stuff, supportive and knowledgeable chap. gave me some tips hints and tricks. His A2 is bad ass. Top Man Steve...
 
I actually think that the seller is ok apart from the total lack of instructions. I have been using them for years now, they come across as ok in any communications.

But most importantly it takes me a short time and helps members. That makes me happy!

Steve B
 
PLEASE NOTE

The seller now shows the following compatibility info on the eBay advert

For Android phone users, please note that the app used by the switch with Bluetooth function does not support Android 10, and ios phone users will not affect the use. We are working hard to develop a new app for Android 10. Before launching a new app, please Android Users check their own version and purchase carefully. I apologize for the inconvenience caused. If you have any questions, please leave us a message, thank you.”

It does sound like they are working on a solution.
If you are unhappy with this (and I can understand that) you should contact the seller and see what they propose.

As I said though, the Bluetooth is only needed to do the initial configuration, if you want to change the factory settings.

You can do this via an IPad (if you have one) or a friend’s iPhone or iPad perhaps?

I am pretty sure that the fix for Android will be sorted in the meantime.

Steve B
 
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Are you sure that the parking lights in front are not on in daytime? That is EU regulation that also cover Norway these days.
I think that you're a bit out of date. The EU Directive requires functionally specific daytime running lamps compliant with ECE Regulation 87 and mounted to the vehicle in accord with ECE Regulation 48. Functional piggybacking, such as operating the headlamps or front turn signals or fog lamps as DRLs, is not permitted. It doesn't seem that that allows sidelights/parking lights. If so, there are lots of drivers in France breaking the law!

RAB
 
As noted in the How I made my auto headlight switch pass the new MOT thread, I at last got round to modifying my CHLS to make it MOT compliant - this is the non-bluetooth one. I've now installed it in the A2 but it's crooked:

Installed in A2.JPG


At the 9 o'clock position it is almost flush with little gap. I've removed and reinserted a number of times and it''s always askew. It probably means the mounting bracket/ring is not square. I guess it was always like this but did not show when only the knob protruded from the facia. Any thoughts? (I've used the word facia to refer to the mounting plate with the 2 thumb wheels)

I known one person removed the mounting bracket from the dash and fixed it to the facia, but I'm not keen on doing that as a) difficult to remove with dash installed and the wiring loom in the way; 2) nothing to then grip the facia; 3) cannot then put back the original switch.

It doesn't really show from the driving position but it grates seeing it when getting in and out and knowing it's not right.
 
Something is pushing the rear of the switch to the right. Does it fit better without the ring?
Thanks for responding. The ring was glued to the facia using a hot glue gun. As you can see in the photo it has come away and is hardly hanging on.

I can try removing the ring. Not too sure if that would be a permanent solution from asthetics. Depends on the how neat my cutting was.

If I pushed the ring back to be flat with the facia that may look better. The switch would be askew still and then show a thick back edge on the right side, but that would be less unsightly than a gap behind the ring. It depends if there is enough tolerance for the ring to be askew to the switch barrel. Might give it a go later today.
 
Thanks for responding. The ring was glued to the facia using a hot glue gun. As you can see in the photo it has come away and is hardly hanging on.

I can try removing the ring. Not too sure if that would be a permanent solution from asthetics. Depends on the how neat my cutting was.

If I pushed the ring back to be flat with the facia that may look better. The switch would be askew still and then show a thick back edge on the right side, but that would be less unsightly than a gap behind the ring. It depends if there is enough tolerance for the ring to be askew to the switch barrel. Might give it a go later today.

It could be that the hole for the ring does not align with the mounting in the dashboard. Perhaps remove the switch, fit the mounting to the dashboard and check that they are concentric? If not you may be able to remove a small amount of material from the 3 o'clock position of the plate to bring the switch back in-line.
 
I had the same and it was the ‘tube’ recess in the dashboard which didn’t quite match with the extra space i’s made in the fascia plate. The hot glue peeled with little resistance.

2 minutes with a file to align the aperture sorted it and then a little dribble of epoxy solved any issues of adherence (gorilla 5 minute was good enough).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks guys. I just tried to push the ring back on the right hand side. Didn't want to use anything too hard so used thumb nail. It was a struggle but eventually got it back - just a cracked nail! Looks much better and less noticeable as everything is black. If the thicker rim on the right side irritates me then might try Catnip64 suggestion but looking at the photo provided by 67boris in this post the mounting aperture looks fairly thin. I think I can live with this:


Ring pushed back.JPG
 
I just noticed this evening that when my main beam headlights came on from auto setting, the front fog-lights also came on. Previously the auto function has only activated the side lights and headlights. Is this a standard / optional setting that had somehow activated or a possible fault with the unit? The manual settings work correctly.
 
Yes it is an optional setting “auto fog lights”.
On the Bluetooth headlights there is a setting (I think it is top of the menu options.
Steve B
 
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