Grumple
Member
Sorry for the delay - had no notifications.
As far as I'm aware it is. I'm disconnecting the battery anyway, so don't think it can be that.
I've disconnected the battery and waited 5-10 minutes before going through the current checks.
Battery drain - Fuses 36 and 42
- Thread starter Grumple
- Start date
Sorry for the delay - had no notifications.
As far as I'm aware it is. I'm disconnecting the battery anyway, so don't think it can be that.
I've disconnected the battery and waited 5-10 minutes before going through the current checks.
Grumple
Member
Just to add some recently noted behaviour.
I charged the battery on Saturday and it was reading 13.37v. By Sunday morning (after sitting disconnected) it was at 12.97v when cold and 14v with the engine running - so it seems like the alternator is working.
However, after driving somewhere and leaving it disconnected for 6 hours, before driving home it was 12.9v and after the 45 minute drive home was down to 12.6v... So it still seems to be losing charge when driving.
I charged the battery on Saturday and it was reading 13.37v. By Sunday morning (after sitting disconnected) it was at 12.97v when cold and 14v with the engine running - so it seems like the alternator is working.
However, after driving somewhere and leaving it disconnected for 6 hours, before driving home it was 12.9v and after the 45 minute drive home was down to 12.6v... So it still seems to be losing charge when driving.
Sylvester
Member
90% chance the battery is on it's way out, 10% there's a massive amount of parasitic draw. I'd bet on the battery. It's <£100 and you good for years, so I'd just get another one.
Make sure the battery is fitted correctly, my battery used to be installed bit front up and that dried the battery cells.
Grumple
Member
Hi Sylvester,
I'd agree if it wasn't for the obvious current that's being drawn when everything is turned off. Battery is also Bosch that's only a few years old, so I don't think it's causing the issues, but might well be getting worn out with all the messing about.
Sylvester
Member
Get a scanner that's a huge help, we can help you how to use it too. One of the best budget ones I've been recommending and others too, is the xtool vag401, prices been going up as many realizes it's a great value, but still a bargain compared to what it can do. Vcds is the best, but if you don't want to carry a laptop around, this is the 2nd best option. I always have it in the car, a good scanner is rather essential.
Either way, a scanner would help you a lot, with other issues too.
That'd be just another reason, it might not be a drawn much, but the battery is losing voltage at a high level. When my last battery went bad, after 6 months it'd lost 90% of it's charge in 3 days.
Either way, a scanner would help you a lot, with other issues too.
Grumple
Member
Seems to be none of those scanners in stock anywhere. Would this model be suitable:
Xtool SD100
I've been reading another couple of threads that lead people to replace the voltage regulator on the alternator. I've had moments where the car runs sluggish for no apparent reason, then either suddenly sorts itself out or simply turning ignition off and starting again sorts it out. Electrics are a nightmare...
Xtool SD100
I've been reading another couple of threads that lead people to replace the voltage regulator on the alternator. I've had moments where the car runs sluggish for no apparent reason, then either suddenly sorts itself out or simply turning ignition off and starting again sorts it out. Electrics are a nightmare...
Catnip64
A2OC Donor
You saw a drop when disconnecting the other bulbs, so there should be a similar reduction when you remove the bulb for the boot light. It's worth checking again to confirm.
Sylvester
Member
I don't know that one, should be good to read basic codes though. The vag401 is so sought after, due the abilty to even delete airbag lights and adapt throttle body, most device can do that cost £££. Many didn't know about it when I got it 3+ years ago, but now it's became rare to find. I'd still keep an eye out, you might find one later.
The best way to rule bad battery out, is still to take it out for a few days and see how voltage change, that's how I saw the battery was the main issue in my case. Either way, a scanner is very handy.
The best way to rule bad battery out, is still to take it out for a few days and see how voltage change, that's how I saw the battery was the main issue in my case. Either way, a scanner is very handy.
Grumple
Member
Tried the boot bulb again, and it makes no difference.
Catnip64
A2OC Donor
Is it perhaps an LED bulb as that would mean it’s only a very small current? You are still measuring the current between the battery negative terminal and the earth lead?
birtyA2
A2OC Donor
H
Have a look here for members who may be able to help with a scan
www.a2oc.net
J
Hi
Have a look here for members who may be able to help with a scan
Free Scan Register
This is a register of members who generously offer free scans for other members. To arrange a free scan: 1. Click the pdf map in the footer and choose a location. 2. Cross reference the location number in the table below to identify the member. 3. Click on their username on the left, click...
www.a2oc.net
J
Grumple
Member
H
Hi
Have a look here for members who may be able to help with a scan
Free Scan Register
This is a register of members who generously offer free scans for other members. To arrange a free scan: 1. Click the pdf map in the footer and choose a location. 2. Cross reference the location number in the table below to identify the member. 3. Click on their username on the left, click...
J
Genius. Thank you!
Grumple
Member
I'll take a closer look, but it did just look like a standard bulb.
Yep, testing current between negative post and lead.
G
Guest 4123
Guest
After a run, or a battery charge, disconnect the battery and leave for a few days - you can still unlock the car with a key in the driver's door (lock the car before disconnecting battery and make access to the battery easier). Does the battery still discharge? If so, it's the battery that's the problem, otherwise current draw. Just because the battery is a few years old, doesn't mean that it's in a healthy state. It depends on how it has been treated.
RAB
RAB
PlasticMac
Member
Grumple
Member
I'm starting to suspect the alternator myself.
The charge of the battery seems totally inconsistent - sometimes it's fine, other times it's lost charge after a drive.
Took it out earlier and it had another 'sluggish' moment - wouldn't do over 60 on the motorway...
Grumple
Member
Aye, I'm gonna give the testing one more crack from the start - I think I've skewed the tests previously by having the driver and rear door open (jumping from the fuse box to the multimeter) - which I guess explains why the bulbs seemed to be drawing so much.
I'd assumed that after the battery being disconnected for days, opening the doors wouldn't activate anything...
G
Guest 4123
Guest
After disconnecting the battery your car will be completely "dead", Hence locking the car before disconnecting the battery. The driver's door will open mechanically with the key. The rear hatch will be locked. You will have to re-connect the battery by pulling the hatch chord or from the rear of the car.
RAB
Grumple
Member
I've just been leaving it unlocked anyway... But even after being "dead" for days, opening the doors seems to activate certain systems.
So I guess the only way to truly test the current is to climb inside, close all the doors and wait while everything 'deactivates' fully before connecting the multimeter.