Boot lid micro switch not working - help please

Cotswolds12

A2OC Donor
Hi all,
When I bought the car a few weeks ago I found a hole where the boot opening microswitch should live and inside a dual core wire attached to a small two pin beige plug connector.

I finally got around to sourcing a good used switch on Ebay and connected the plug to test it. Needless to say it didn’t work. I will test the switch if I can get to the tiny pins but assuming its not the switch can anyone suggest my next move? Will I have to remove the boot trim if so is it difficult?

thanks
Charles
 
Hi all,
When I bought the car a few weeks ago I found a hole where the boot opening microswitch should live and inside a dual core wire attached to a small two pin beige plug connector.

I finally got around to sourcing a good used switch on Ebay and connected the plug to test it. Needless to say it didn’t work. I will test the switch if I can get to the tiny pins but assuming its not the switch can anyone suggest my next move? Will I have to remove the boot trim if so is it difficult?

thanks
Charles

hi all, not started on this yet, any advice please? Anyone?
 
Thought the boot opening microswitch was built into the tailgate lock.

Have you got any pics of the offending hole showing its location

Cheers Spike
 
Hi Spike,
There is a wire inside the hole that attaches to the microswitch I bought but I as it doesn't work I am guessing the fault lies within. The opener works with the key fob. Isn't this how all the A2 boots look?
Thanks
Charles
 

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Spike (and I) thought you were talking about the other microswitch (in the lock mechanism). Sounds like you have a wiring fault though shorting the pins on the connector may confirm you have a poor connection or a faulty switch.
 
Yes, I certainly interpreted your description incorrectly. The microswitch within the boot handle just operates a solenoid which moves a rod to activate the latch mechanism.
The youtube video in this old thread (post 19) shows one way of removing the tailgate trim panel for access and usefully the locking mechanism (about 6 min in) - https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/bootlid-not-locking.34443/post-299558
Worth reading all the thread - lots of useful info

Cheers Spike
 
Brilliant I have, good info and next chance I get I will remove the back panel, whilst I have it off do you know if any of the cheap led number plate lamp fittings on Ebay will replace my rusted old ones? Thanks
Charles
 

mine arrived in the original VAG boxes. Used completesavings to get another 10% off that price above, but still not a bad price.

As Spike has said above - replacing these is not trivial - they fit into the reverse side of the outside trim - but to get access to their connectors and fasteners for this you need to take off the inside trim which in itself is not trivial. I luckily didn't have to do the tailgate open/closed microswitch which I believe is in the latch/locking mech?

For the repair job you start by removing the internal trim - the internal handle is a good point to start wrenching the trim off the inner face as it is directly connected to two of the spring clips that holds it on, then the rest should come off with "persuasion" and some trim levers.

Then you can disconnect the light and boot-opening-switch wires, then remove the screws that hold the external trim in, then pull the external trim off. The above screws corrode horribly over time so you may need to just rip this off and sort the damage (detached locating hooks/tabs) out before refitting.
 

mine arrived in the original VAG boxes. Used completesavings to get another 10% off that price above, but still not a bad price.

As Spike has said above - replacing these is not trivial - they fit into the reverse side of the outside trim - but to get access to their connectors and fasteners for this you need to take off the inside trim which in itself is not trivial. I luckily didn't have to do the tailgate open/closed microswitch which I believe is in the latch/locking mech?

For the repair job you start by removing the internal trim - the internal handle is a good point to start wrenching the trim off the inner face as it is directly connected to two of the spring clips that holds it on, then the rest should come off with "persuasion" and some trim levers.

Then you can disconnect the light and boot-opening-switch wires, then remove the screws that hold the external trim in, then pull the external trim off. The above screws corrode horribly over time so you may need to just rip this off and sort the damage (detached locating hooks/tabs) out before refitting.
Thanks for this Robin that is the best price I have seen for them. I asked a question in the Forum about swapping these for LED lamp fittings available for Ebay if the dimensions are right and they could be made to fit , I will see if anyone has done this before I commit. If I do buy these then I will look for SS screws LOL.
 
These include conventional incandescent W5W bulbs ; you could easily swap a pair of LEDs in while the perspex window is off. Just need to find ones of the right intensity level so it doesn't make your numberplate look like the Eddystone lighthouse.
 
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