Brake light switch location ?
- Thread starter A2-Dork
- Start date
Erlingtheyounger
Member
You might just need to ‘agitate’ the plunger on the switch
Bumblebee
Member
I thought about that as after repeated pumps. Holding brakes on it works. Then plays up for a few stabs and resumes..... I think it's a bit of surface corrosion inside switch on the contacts..... Can you spray a bit of WD40 up there to clean them off by 'agitating' 
great word Agitating 
great word Agitating
Erlingtheyounger
Member
For me just removing the switch, giving it a good pump and refitting it (because the ‘spare’ I had was for a 1.2 and it’s another unique part!I thought about that as after repeated pumps. Holding brakes on it works. Then plays up for a few stabs and resumes..... I think it's a bit of surface corrosion inside switch on the contacts..... Can you spray a bit of WD40 up there to clean them off by 'agitating'
) got me 25k miles before I ended up fitting the replacement I purchased!
PlasticMac
Member
WD-40 is not a cleaner, degreaser, or lubricant. It's a moisture dispersant.I thought about that as after repeated pumps. Holding brakes on it works. Then plays up for a few stabs and resumes..... I think it's a bit of surface corrosion inside switch on the contacts..... Can you spray a bit of WD40 up there to clean them off by 'agitating'
WD-40 do their own contact cleaner, and silicone lubricant.
I may have pointed this out before ...
Mac.
Exe_Chris
Member
I wouldn't bother trying to reuse the old one (from experience of doing this and it failing on the way to an MOT). By the time you've gone to the trouble of getting it out you may as well just fit a new one. Costs less than £10 and gives peace of mind.
My advice would be wear gloves and get an assistant if you can (they can depress the brake pedal to make refitting easier).
My advice would be wear gloves and get an assistant if you can (they can depress the brake pedal to make refitting easier).
Erlingtheyounger
Member
I agree, it’s a job I’d not have done twice out of choice but if you need to use the car, don’t have a spare switch to hand and want working break lights, popping it out ‘agitating’ and re installing can often do the trick.
Pretty sure OEM switches are a bit more expensive that £10 sadly and none OEM ones are a complete waste of time for the reason already stated in terms of fitted hassle.
Gloves are a top tip from a scan saving POV!
audifan
A2OC Donor
The brake pedal switch is very important not only for safely turning on ( and off ) the brake lights but also interacts with other systems.
Buy a GREEN OEM switch ( even better get a spare ). Yes a removal and clean may work but why bother - unless that is you are parked up awaiting a MOT.
Buy a GREEN OEM switch ( even better get a spare ). Yes a removal and clean may work but why bother - unless that is you are parked up awaiting a MOT.
johnyfartbox
A2OC Donor
Agreed , I always use screwfix , pretty good on prices and they are everywhere
Bumblebee
Member
Thank you.
I am not having luck with part numbers with and OEM green one, they all appear to be black. However this image is the only green one that comes up and its a bit different in plunger etc.
Is part number 8Z0 945 511 correct????
Black one is like this and came up first on Autodoc?
Which type have others purchased for an 16FSI 'BAD' series '8Z0' etc
Need one for the MOT as don't trust it being temperamental......
Thanks in advance
Erlingtheyounger
Member
I BELIEVE with the exception of the 1.2, they are interchangeable across the range but @CreweAudi may be able to confirm the part number for you and supply as they did my last one.
Bumblebee
Member
Proghound
Admin Team
That looks like all the ones (failed or otherwise) that I've had out of my A2's. I suspect that's what your £33 will get you from Audi. I've not long put a Febi one in one of mine at about a third of that price. Whereas the popular opinion was that they have a long travel before the brake lights come on, this one seems to be as sensitive as the OEM original.