brake pads sensor
- Thread starter oleckowsky
- Start date
oleckowsky
Member
Can anybody show me where this two cables are, please? Any picture or drawing will be really helpfully... 
The problem is that if he had continuity he wouldn't need to be doing this
Steve B
Yes but if you cut the old one back into the engine bay, you'll get to a point in the cable that you should be able to read from it
Sarge
id suggest just uncovering the wires down by the wheel and checking the colour of the wires, and matching these 2 coloured wires to one of the plugs in the photo as youl find the other ends of the same 2 wires, i doubt someone could advise you corectly as there may be model variations of looms between petrols and diesels and the looms did changed between years too, so there could be wire colour changes, i could look on the looms i have today but id say the safest way is to check your own wiring at the wheel and then find the same coloured wires inside of the car , that way you know youv got the correct 2 wires , as mentioned in the message i sent you all the wires will have one main colour and then a thin or thick coloured line along the length of the wire , just match these up ..
oleckowsky
Member
I know the colours... but from which way this two wires should bee coming from ? (form looms number 1 or 2)
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it looks to be loom 2 , the conector block thats conected to the A pillar with the female conectors is the main loom dont touch these wires, the male conectors loom2 is the separate front loom that runs through the firewall to the engine bay, this is where you need to either temporary join the 2 wires or remove the pins from the male connector and use the repair loom which id imagine comes with the pins on the end of the wires..
oleckowsky
Member
Success !! I have joined two cables just over the wing hole and the warning brake pad light is gone now.
roc-a-rhol
A2OC Donor
can someone tell me what is meant by 'joining' the 2 cables please? is it a case of removing them from the plug and sticking them together?
cheers
drew
cheers
drew
Essentially yes, but it may not cure the (good pads + yet pad warning on dash) fault, as mentioned above the discontinuity fault may be before that point in the circuit. I would have used the word 'wire (core)' rather than 'cable'.
As per Audifan, why do you ask?
Andy
roc-a-rhol
A2OC Donor
thanks for the info. the warning light is now an mot fail so up until now iv just lived with the light and manually checked / replaced the pads. my mot is due today (left it a little late, i know) so no time to get it properly sorted so after a quick fix
audifan
A2OC Donor
Unplug the pads from the loom. The loom side can't remember if it is the pin side or the socket side, either way bridge the 2 contacts either using a screwdriver blade or a metal paper clip. The light should be off. If that is now the case get a small piece of uninsulated wire and place it into both connections on the socket side and reconnect the plugs. Again check light is off. hopefully this really basic bodge can cure the problem until you can fix permanently. If this doesn't work then trace the wire up the wing and inside the engine bay remove some insulation and join the two wear sensor wires there. DO NOT CUT OR DAMAGE THE OTHER WIRES AS THEY ARE FOR THE ABS SENSOR.
roc-a-rhol
A2OC Donor
much appreciated, thanks guys
audifan
A2OC Donor
@roc-a-rhol any update?
Alan_uk
A2OC Donor
I need to fix this and I've the full length wiring harness. What's the easiest way to get the wire through the bulk head and to the connecting block, hopefully by not having to remove the dash board or even the glove box!
On the repair kit, 3 of the 4 wires are terminate with pins (black, brown and red) but the yellow is not. I find that strange unless it goes to an earth point. I tried to find a wiring diagram but no luck. I might take it to an auto-electrician but would wish to run the cable through myself, leaving just the connect for the electrician.
audifan
A2OC Donor
As a minimum you will need the lower a pillar trim and glove box out. Have a hunt around to see where the wires pass through the bulkhead and use that location to feed the new loom back into the cabin - sorry. If you do not want to do that then join the new loom into the old loom in a suitable place. There are only 4 wires 2 for the wear sensor and 2 for the abs sensor, look at the existing sensors to see which colours are used. Audi have a bad habit of using colour blind people to install their wiring so colours can vary but always end up in the same place ( tongue in cheek ). Just ask @timmus how many cars he has seen with the same wiring as the manual.
Three diagrams below, may help, but may just confuse you more. Any doubts then use an auto spark for the "technical" part.
Three diagrams below, may help, but may just confuse you more. Any doubts then use an auto spark for the "technical" part.
I remember looking where in the the cabin the large loom that passes through the big grommet comes out. Even with the glove box removed it was not obvious to me. Suggest you ask @Kleynie who added a new cable when recently retrofitting fog lights.
Andy
Alan_uk
A2OC Donor
Many thanks Audifan. Very helpful. As I guessed the yellow wire goes to earth. Yes, I know that lots of people have done the solder method but having got the proper repair kit I thought I would try and do a proper job.
The ABS wires go into J104 the ABS with EDL control unit. Is that located in the same place as the T17 connector (i.e. behind the lower trim)?
EDIT: Answer is No. The J104 is in the engine compartment and the fixing guide is here:
I've always imagined that the ABS wires on the front left and right are equally likely to break due to the stresses from the steering, but I don't recall anyone on the forum getting that problem. Presumably for the front right the same kit is used and the brake sensor plug cut off.
The ABS wires go into J104 the ABS with EDL control unit. Is that located in the same place as the T17 connector (i.e. behind the lower trim)?
EDIT: Answer is No. The J104 is in the engine compartment and the fixing guide is here:
Audi Workshop Service and Repair Manuals > A2 > Brake system | ABS, ADR, TCS, EDL, ESP | Removing and installing components of ABS system on front and rear axle | Removing and installing speed sensor on front axle
A2 > Audi Workshop Service and Repair Manuals > Brake system | ABS, ADR, TCS, EDL, ESP | Removing and installing components of ABS system on front and rear axle | Removing and installing speed sensor on front axle
workshop-manuals.com
I've always imagined that the ABS wires on the front left and right are equally likely to break due to the stresses from the steering, but I don't recall anyone on the forum getting that problem. Presumably for the front right the same kit is used and the brake sensor plug cut off.
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Alan_uk
A2OC Donor
Thanks Andrew.
I've located a glovebox removal guide here
and here
I've located a glovebox removal guide here
How do you remove the glovebox?
Ok, as per the thread title - how do you remove the glovebox? All the posts regarding freeing off temperature flaps start with ‘remove the glovebox’ but having had a quick look I can’t see how to do it, and I can’t find any guides on here either.
www.a2oc.net
Information - General A2 Servicing Information
I thought I'd start yet another thread with general information on working with the 'A2'. One could say I'm doing myself out of a job! but I like to think people should be helped along, and anyway, I'd like to think that if they decided not to DIY then they can always come to people like me! I...
www.a2oc.net
Don't know if the links mention it, but a trivial tip from me on removing the glove box. When the last glovebox fixing is released I found myself supporting the glovebox with no free hand(s) to release the connector to the glovebox light. It did not seem to me a good idea to leave the weight of the glovebox dangling on the wire so I put the last fixing back and temporarily requisitioned loose cushions from the lounge settee to take the weight when I tried again. I found releasing the glovebox light connector a pig, I wrote a 'How To' if you want some inspiration.
With the glovebox removed it is the ideal time to implement a Depronman tang repair, I expect you will need it.
Andy
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