Brakes, droplinks, bearings, blah blah blah

callipers (looks like nipples are seized). Wishbones/drop links/drive shafts (looks like a boot has split)??

I see some parts from the makes of Ridex pretty cheap, are these a real no-no, or are cheaper parts better than old originals?

If the calipers are wearing the discs evenly why replace them? If the bleed nipples are seized get some heat on them, remove them, then run a tap down the thread. New nipples. job done. You need to sort this to replace the brake fluid, it needs replacing after a few years off the road.

Not everybody will agree but I like Febi parts. Google Febi parts finder and set up an account. You can find the parts you need and their part number then look for them on eBay etc.

If a boot has split that is a MOT failure and your car has just recently passed. I would take a second look.
 
I will have a good inspect of the calipers, yes, if I can get away with new nipples (ooh er miss's) I will do that.

I've also decided I will replace whatever parts are needed or will need to be replaced sooner than later, so I've added all round shocks to the list as well.
 
I know I have recommended Febi, I buy lots of Febi parts for my cars. However, I see you are considering a suspension overhaul. I favour Lemforder for suspension components but they are expensive. I saved money on my A2 by looking at other ZF group brands. I bought TRW A2 wishbones much cheaper than Lemforder. What I received were Lemforder with Lemforder branding removed. Other ZF brands include Sachs and Boge. Both favoured brands for damping.
 
Quick question if I may.

When is a cast wishbone done for?

I took the wheel off and had a good look around today, and it's worse than expected... well wanted?

I looks like the shocker has decided to lose all it's oil as well, it is the original one though.

Nipple won't turn.

I'm wondering wether to buy a knuckle with bearings pre installed, although they seem to be unbranded.
I would have preferred Febi/SKF.

I've not much experience with fixing cars, but hoping I can tackle this lot.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7962.JPG
    IMG_7962.JPG
    381.1 KB · Views: 69
  • IMG_7963.jpg
    IMG_7963.jpg
    625.1 KB · Views: 66
The cast wishbone is really only done for when the integral balljoint on the end of it is knocking. The balljoint can't be replaced separately, necessitating a new arm. If you see the balljoint rubber cover perishing, get it replaced quick.
 
Quick question if I may.

When is a cast wishbone done for?

I took the wheel off and had a good look around today, and it's worse than expected... well wanted?

I looks like the shocker has decided to lose all it's oil as well, it is the original one though.

Nipple won't turn.

I'm wondering wether to buy a knuckle with bearings pre installed, although they seem to be unbranded.
I would have preferred Febi/SKF.

I've not much experience with fixing cars, but hoping I can tackle this lot.
Ditto @Proghound re the wishbone. Looks very similar to mine before I cleaned with a wire brush and carefully rust treated last year ( I think I posted some pictures so I will see if I can find those and update )

Again front calliper/knuckle/disc looks about the same on mine and so I to am thinking about what to do here. I have all the parts to do the suspension now; spreading the cost over several months. Thinking about knuckles and brake overhaul as well myself.

J
 
I have been favouring TRW or febi parts.

I've seen you can get knuckles with preinstalled bearings... saves a job (maybe) but they are unbranded so wondering if it's worth working with what I've got already.
Only thing is, as you start to look around, you move along, and notice this and that and think, I'll replace that too... sadly the £ meter is running.
 
I have been favouring TRW or febi parts.

I've seen you can get knuckles with preinstalled bearings... saves a job (maybe) but they are unbranded so wondering if it's worth working with what I've got already.
Only thing is, as you start to look around, you move along, and notice this and that and think, I'll replace that too... sadly the £ meter is running.
Recommend you don’t look at the rear axle - scary!

I’ve seen these fully assembled knuckles with the bearing and splash guard. Agree a possibility but as you say it all starts mounting up.
 
Your car is looking much better than I expected for original from new 200k + miles car. I’m not sure why you are even considering replacing your bearing housing,? If that is the same as a knuckle?
My advice is get hose nipples cherry red hot, let them cool a bit otherwise they will twist off and break. Tighten losen and repeat until they come out. I’m not sure they are original, what size socket fits?
 
Are new brake hoses and clips still readily available too?
Could be worth having a look at HEL braided brake lines / hoses - around the £50 mark depending on periodic Ebay discounts etc. I have them on all three of my A2s.

 
Your car is looking much better than I expected for original from new 200k + miles car. I’m not sure why you are even considering replacing your bearing housing,? If that is the same as a knuckle?
My advice is get hose nipples cherry red hot, let them cool a bit otherwise they will twist off and break. Tighten losen and repeat until they come out. I’m not sure they are original, what size socket fits?
Just looking at the options available, as the bearing on one side is whining and will need replacing, not sure on the condition of the caliper, suspect it's binding a tad, so intended to replace this... I had forgotten you need the caliper carrier bracket, they seem expensive for what they are.

I only want to do this work once, and thought now might be the time, seeing as replacing the car will be a lot more expensive.
 
Could be worth having a look at HEL braided brake lines / hoses - around the £50 mark depending on periodic Ebay discounts etc. I have them on all three of my A2s.

Thanks Robin, I have them all round on the A4. Should last forever.
I think it's the route to go.
 
Last edited:
Just looking at the options available, as the bearing on one side is whining and will need replacing, not sure on the condition of the caliper, suspect it's binding a tad, so intended to replace this... I had forgotten you need the caliper carrier bracket, they seem expensive for what they are.

I only want to do this work once, and thought now might be the time, seeing as replacing the car will be a lot more expensive.
Is your caliper carrier bracket badly corroded? Will it wire brush and Hammerite?
I've yet to explore mine yet, but am expecting the worst. My discs are wearing unevenly too.(mentioned in a MOT advisory, and very visible).
I have new discs and pads to go on, thinking about renewing the whole caliper regardless.
 
This is where I am, I like the idea of new bits... perhaps they will last another 200,000 miles + or until they stop selling diesel!
Will be stripping down this week to see what's what.

Note to self, do maintenance as you go along in life, don't leave it all until there's lots to do.😬
 
Back
Top