Caring for CS roof

Malcyb

Member
Hi,
Want to give the paintwork on my colourstorm some proper TLC in the next few days for the first time since it’s been in in my ownership. What suggestions do people have for bringing out the best in the satin black roof? I found a thread saying it was worth using clay, but after that...?
 
Hi,
Want to give the paintwork on my colourstorm some proper TLC in the next few days for the first time since it’s been in in my ownership. What suggestions do people have for bringing out the best in the satin black roof? I found a thread saying it was worth using clay, but after that...?
You need to be more careful with it than normal paint, because you shouldn’t polish out imperfections in it. I believe you can get proper satin/matte detailer, which you put on with a micro fibre cloth ?
 
The clay bar is designed to do exactly that. Take out imperfections so do not use a clay bar.

This is what Autoglym recommend from their site.

Caring For Matt And Satin


The manner in which they react to light is the key aspect of both matt and satin finishes, and while the two do have a number of distinct traits, the process of caring for them is largely the same. While said process isn’t exactly time consuming, the specialist nature of these paint finishes does mean that they require a little more care than ‘regular’ gloss or metallic paint coatings, though the good news is that the Autoglym range is very well equipped and more than up to the task.


Washing


This is something you’re going to get very good at if you own a car with a matt or satin finish, as it’s perhaps the most important stage of the entire cleaning process. The reason that it’s so, so important to give your car a thorough wash with a high pressure hose before applying any kind of mitt, sponge or cloth-care, is because neither matt or satin finishes are easy to repair if you get damaged. Even more so than their gloss or metallic relations, these finishes are all too susceptible to damage caused by improper cleaning, with specks of grit and other abrasives being of particular concern. Worse still, scratched or otherwise damaged matt and satin paintwork is harder to rectify than regular paint, certainly without the coat in question looking like an obvious repair job. The message is clear, pre-washing with a high pressure system is all but essential.


Our development technicians have tested the entire Autoglym portfolio of shampoos extensively, and have found that all are completely safe to use on cars with low light finishes like matt or satin. Our techs did find Pure Shampoo to be particularly effective, and this is down to its pure, gloss enhancer-free formulation. The same Autoglym development team also found that other, preparation products can be used on these paint finishes without causing damage, including Intensive Tar Remover.


Over application of wax can effectively nullify the unique properties of matt and satin paint finishes

Over application of wax can effectively nullify the unique properties of matt and satin paint finishes, filling in the ‘valleys’ within he paintwork

What Not To Use


Pre-washing aside, there are a number of other steps and products that should be avoided by anyone keen to retain the unique properties of their matt or satin paintwork. It’s a good rule of thumb that anything with the potential to be layered on in too great a quantity or thick a layer should be avoided at all costs, and most certainly applied to waxes, a product that many apply in an over-zealous manner regardless of the type of paint on their car!


Polish, that other detailing staple, should also be eschewed, and this applies regardless of the type and or quality of the product in question. Applying polish to satin or matt finishes can dramatically and irreparably alter the appearance of your paint, and the very action of polishing should be avoided at all costs if you want to preserve the unique and striking appearance of your paint.


The reason why both wax and polish should be avoided becomes apparent when you examine both matt and satin paint finishes through a microscope, where it becomes clear that, unlike more everyday finishes, both are anything but smooth and uniform in appearance. Indeed, up close matt and satin paints appear like miniaturised versions of the Himalayas, with both mountains and valleys clearly visible – the source of the paint’s flat, anti-reflective properties. Adding wax to either has the effect of filling in said valleys, while over application of polish can buff off the top of the ‘peaks,’ causing damage that’s all but impossible to repair. Basically, avoid applying a too thick layer of anything, and watch out for abrasives.


What To Use


Instead of using thick layers of wax and polish that risk damaging your paint, we’d recommend Rapid Aqua Wax. This product is liquid based and therefore safe to use on both paint types (it follows the contours of the paint so won’t add gloss or sheen), it also come with a whole host of benefits primarily associated with waxes, including UV protection and a degree of hydrophobicity, the latter making future cleaning all the simpler and swifter. The multi-talented nature of this product mean that, in car paintwork terms at least, you really can have your cake and eat it; all the joy of having interesting, show stopping paint, with none of the drawbacks!


There are certainly ways of protecting your matt paint without compromising its unique properties, you just need to be aware of viscosities and how they impact the paint itself

I have no association with Autoglym and am not personally endorsing any product.
 
Thanks for the replies... I’ve ordered some Autoglym rapid aqua wax and see how I get on with that. Sounds like that will be good for the CS’s black plastic trim too.
 
Bit of a swerve, but is the paint on the rear spoiler (on my Sport FSI) also satin/matt?
Mac.

I’ve certainly got a black satin/matt finish on my boot spoiler, however to my untrained eye I think it’s just the colour of the plastic rather than painted - same as my wheel arch surrounds, or have I got this completely wrong? Either way, the Autoglym rapid aqua wax appears to be suitable to use on it.
 
I’ve certainly got a black satin/matt finish on my boot spoiler, however to my untrained eye I think it’s just the colour of the plastic rather than painted - same as my wheel arch surrounds, or have I got this completely wrong? Either way, the Autoglym rapid aqua wax appears to be suitable to use on it.
The spoiler is aluminium, painted matte black. I use back to black on it and it looks fantastic.
 
The spoiler is aluminium, painted matte black. I use back to black on it and it looks fantastic.

Ah thanks for educating me. Is this the stuff you mean?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Simoniz-Back-Black-Bumper-500ml/dp/B00ULLKDAK/ref=sr_1_5?crid=19GDHJFDE2MAS&dchild=1&keywords=back+to+black&qid=1594072986&sprefix=Back+to+black,aps,146&sr=8-5

I‘d like to improve the look of my wheel arch surrounds in particular however from a quick glance at the reviews for this I’m wondering whether it’s suitable, reviews talk about giving a shiny finish (as a good thing) which wouldn’t be right. Is it really suitable for restoring satin finish?
 
Ah thanks for educating me. Is this the stuff you mean?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Simoniz-Back-Black-Bumper-500ml/dp/B00ULLKDAK/ref=sr_1_5?crid=19GDHJFDE2MAS&dchild=1&keywords=back+to+black&qid=1594072986&sprefix=Back+to+black,aps,146&sr=8-5

I‘d like to improve the look of my wheel arch surrounds in particular however from a quick glance at the reviews for this I’m wondering whether it’s suitable, reviews talk about giving a shiny finish (as a good thing) which wouldn’t be right. Is it really suitable for restoring satin finish?
That's the stuff, looks brilliant on the spoiler, but I have no experience with the wheel arches as I don't have a colour storm. It's commonly used stuff though, I'm sure someone will be able to chip in and offer some advice.
 
That's the stuff, looks brilliant on the spoiler, but I have no experience with the wheel arches as I don't have a colour storm. It's commonly used stuff though, I'm sure someone will be able to chip in and offer some advice.

The finish on the wheel arches looks very similar to the spoiler so if it works on one I’m sure it would be ok on the other.
 
The spoiler is aluminium, painted matte black. I use back to black on it and it looks fantastic.
My spoiler seems to be a foam moulding, with a smooth, matt black skin. I don't think there's any aluminium involved. Certainly didn't notice any when I drilled drain holes a while back. I'm sure it's original.
Mac.
 
My spoiler seems to be a foam moulding, with a smooth, matt black skin. I don't think there's any aluminium involved. Certainly didn't notice any when I drilled drain holes a while back. I'm sure it's original.
Mac.

Got to say that’s what I thought mine was - when I tap it, it sounds like plastic, not metal.
 
Well, whatever its made of, I’ve ordered some back to black to take care of the CS’s various black bits (roof excepted). If somebody thinks I’m making a mistake please let me know quickly! Was going to apply the Autoglym aqua wax over the top of this.
 
Looking into the holes I drilled to let the water out, mine does seem to be foam filled and smooth skinned. About 8 mm thick, where I drilled.
Mac.
 
Happy to report that the Autoglym aqua wax did an excellent job on the roof, evidence below (sorry no “before”), and it was child’s play to apply.
6A96A4E3-4011-41CC-A837-DD93D69ADE37.jpeg

No complete photo for now because, although I’ve got the bodywork looking nice and shiny, it’s shown up how blotchy the wheel arches are. So I’ll wait for my back to black and hope that does a good job on them.
 
Back to black will be very short lived on the arches and will be washed off quite quickly. Why not try the wax you have used above?
 
Back
Top