Changing front shock absorbers

Memphis

Member
Hi. Can the front shock absorbers be changed without having to disconnect the driveshaft/lower ball joint etc. Or does the hub have to be removed with the shock absorber.?
1.4 petrol.
Regards Memphis.
 
There are a great couple of videos on Youtube that should detail exactly what you need to do, done by one of the forum members.

Love his video's, a great watch and funny too.




@laimis
 
Hi. Can the front shock absorbers be changed without having to disconnect the driveshaft/lower ball joint etc. Or does the hub have to be removed with the shock absorber.?
1.4 petrol.
Regards Memphis.
They can be changed with everything remaining on the car , hub removal is optional and depends on what other jobs coincide with strut replacement
 
As already noted, though I found the job much easier with an impact gun for the strut pinch bolt. Also worth spraying penetrating fluid on all fasteners several days and several times before you start. Edit: particularly the strut top mount bolts, loose captive nuts are (apparently) most unpleasant.
 
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As already noted, though I found the job much easier with an impact gun for the strut pinch bolt. Also worth spraying penetrating fluid on all fasteners several days and several times before you start. Edit: particularly the strut top mount bolts, loose captive nuts are (apparently) most unpleasant.
 
Yes, good advice, a good wire brushing of the exposed threads and a Liberal dose of penetrating fluid, hopefully the top mount bolts will come undone without any hassle.
Once again, thank you all for the advice.
Regards Memphis.
 
As already noted, though I found the job much easier with an impact gun for the strut pinch bolt. Also worth spraying penetrating fluid on all fasteners several days and several times before you start. Edit: particularly the strut top mount bolts, loose captive nuts are (apparently) most unpleasant.
yes I had to get the angle grinder to the bolt head when one of my captive nuts became, well not captive
made the job a LOT longer, thankfully it was the front bolt, but still a right git to get at
 
As already noted, though I found the job much easier with an impact gun for the strut pinch bolt. Also worth spraying penetrating fluid on all fasteners several days and several times before you start. Edit: particularly the strut top mount bolts, loose captive nuts are (apparently) most unpleasant.

Ahh, thanks for the tip: I was just contemplating continuing with my front spring replacement this evening. In the light of above and given the car seems to have lived in the middle of a muddy field for, oh I don't know, forever, I'll give the top bolt tails a good scrub and soak them overnight. The rest is already running in penetrating fluid but I'd missed these.
 
I have been looking for the socket tool for torqueing the top mount bolt but can only find full sets for 50 or 60 pounds.

Considered the impact gun but I am worried about over tightening.

Any suggestions ?

PEL-003046SCH01A-04.jpg


Only individual one I can find is in America
 
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A set of 1/2 deep impact sockets six sided should be a bit less price wise and more readily available for the top shocker nut
If you don't already have

Good set of spring compressors more important
 
A set of 1/2 deep impact sockets six sided should be a bit less price wise and more readily available for the top shocker nut
If you don't already have

Good set of spring compressors more important

Would the strut rod nut just turn if I torqued the top nut using an impact socket and torque wrench ?
 
Would the strut rod nut just turn if I torqued the top nut using an impact socket and torque wrench ?
A new shock + nut will be fine with impact alone
Never used a torque wrench yet for that task
Giving the nut a couple of turns on the thread manually before the gun will prevent crossed threads
 
A new shock + nut will be fine with impact alone
Never used a torque wrench yet for that task
Giving the nut a couple of turns on the thread manually before the gun will prevent crossed threads

The impact gun we have here does 135nm on the lowest setting would that not be too much ?

Thanks
 
You won't be using the torque stated available unless you give it sustained application

A couple of squirts is all it takes
I use an Ingersoll 2135 in the workshop on second setting

You will hear an audible change as the nut seats and nips up

Do it a couple of times on the old one first if u are concerned or uncertain
 
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