Changing headlight bulbs?
- Thread starter PH A2
- Start date
Yes, remove the two screws holding the headlamp in situ. This means you can draw the headlight assembly forward. Take the clip off the back and then you can remove the headlight and have complete easy access to change the bulb.
There are only two screws - although you need the right torx bits. Assuming that they are stuck, once the driver is engaged with the screw, give it a good whack downwards into the frame to crack any oxide before trying to turn it. Once you've undone those and removed the screws, the headlight unit can be shuffled forwards and the plastic lug to the outer edge disengaged with the plastic frame inside the wing. The passenger side light can now be tipped over forwards to undo the access panel on the back of the light housing so that you can disengage the clip that holds the bulb in place.
The drivers' side one you also need to release the main wire connector because an extra cable (power for foglights?) stops you from tipping it over otherwise. For this you need a wide-ish flat blade screwdriver and a smaller one respectively to A) lift the release catch, and B) insert at the base of the plug so that you can lever it upwards a millimetre or so to release. Once this is done you can then slide the connector off, access the back of the housing and remove the access panel.
When putting back together, put a blob of grease on both screws before tightening up.
Sarge and others have posted excellent guides for this here that I used to collate the above.
The drivers' side one you also need to release the main wire connector because an extra cable (power for foglights?) stops you from tipping it over otherwise. For this you need a wide-ish flat blade screwdriver and a smaller one respectively to A) lift the release catch, and B) insert at the base of the plug so that you can lever it upwards a millimetre or so to release. Once this is done you can then slide the connector off, access the back of the housing and remove the access panel.
When putting back together, put a blob of grease on both screws before tightening up.
Sarge and others have posted excellent guides for this here that I used to collate the above.
Actually, Darren C above is being a bit coy - he posted the following thread / links to Steve Birchall's advice on plug removal months ago. I think that I actually picked up my links to Steve B and other instructions from there but had forgotten.
https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/how-to-change-headlight-bulbs.34724/
https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/how-to-change-headlight-bulbs.34724/
Just think yourself lucky you've got a 90 - only the DMF and turbo to play with your head. Imagine the joy if you'd bought a 1.6 FSI (yes - I am winding some of you up a bit!).Im so glad ive joined this group,it makes me less afraid of my 90,lol.....Its nice knowing someone is here to give advice..!
KekseKaempfer
A2OC Donor
Hijack.
I don't think anyone should worry unnecessarily about a TDI90. ours has done 214K on the original turbo and 80K on the last clutch which was changed at 130K (probably without need because of a gearbox problem). Disclaimer 70 miles a day easy driving.
/Hijack
On the subject of bulbs, just remove the headlight. Ours have been in and out so many times to experiment with LED bulbs i've lost count.
I don't think anyone should worry unnecessarily about a TDI90. ours has done 214K on the original turbo and 80K on the last clutch which was changed at 130K (probably without need because of a gearbox problem). Disclaimer 70 miles a day easy driving.
/Hijack
On the subject of bulbs, just remove the headlight. Ours have been in and out so many times to experiment with LED bulbs i've lost count.
jeff8640
Member
On a different subject as I don’t know how to post a general interest item. My A2Tdi 90 has purchased 2 months ago from a super fastidious owner, has covered over 215,000 miles! Only recent replacement was a starter battery. Existing one almost giving up with colder weather.
So here is a speedo pic to confirm mileage!
So here is a speedo pic to confirm mileage!
Attachments
Well done Jeff - you might want to post on the 200k club page as well.
https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...2-and-the-200k-club.30765/page-12#post-331293
https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...2-and-the-200k-club.30765/page-12#post-331293
A2Steve
A2OC Donor
Just updated it for you Jeff. I remember seeing the car advertised and bidding was quite strong, was obviously worth the money having been so well maintained.
Au2ro
Member
I only removed the headlight the first time I changed a headlight bulb, after that, knowing where the clip at the back of the bulb was and how to unclip it was sufficient.
It certainly is challenging, having to feel your way around the clip, but I like doing puzzles.
The worst bit, I find, is replacing the plastic plate behind the bulbs so that it seals the headlamp unit properly when the clip is put back, that always takes several attempts.
I now have a rusted torx screw head on one side which I cannot get out so I have to replace bulbs without removing the headlamp on that side.
It certainly is challenging, having to feel your way around the clip, but I like doing puzzles.
The worst bit, I find, is replacing the plastic plate behind the bulbs so that it seals the headlamp unit properly when the clip is put back, that always takes several attempts.
I now have a rusted torx screw head on one side which I cannot get out so I have to replace bulbs without removing the headlamp on that side.
audifan
A2OC Donor
@Au2ro try this to remove the rusted screw. Soak well with good penetrant oil overnight. Put some lapping paste on the bit and using an impact driver hit it hard. If that does not work use a dremel to cut a slot in the head and use a flat blade and try again. Use a pair of mole grips very tight and try to slacken the screw once it starts moving more penetrant oil and work the screw back and forth this cleans out the rust in the thread. Last resort is cut the head off to release the headlight then attack the shank with mole grips using the slacken / tighten method. Once out clean the nut thread on the car and replace the screw with a new one with some anti seize compound on the thread first. when refitting the rear cover make sure the foam seal is intact and correctly located, put a smear of petroleum jelly on it and refit. This will ensure you do not have condensation problems.
GordonS
Member
I replaced my headlights last weekend, I had previously fitted Philips WhiteVision Xenon effect H7 bulbs when I had to replace a blown bulb last March. They seemed to be too bright and I was constantly being flashed by oncoming drivers, so decided to replace those with less bright bulbs. Gone for these: OSRAM ULTRA LIFE H7, halogen headlamp and so far they seem fine - no one flashing me.
Fortunately, the torx screws was easy, but I thanked the lord that I'd previously bought a set of long shafted (c1ft) torx drivers - not expensive, but far better than using a torx bit from a driver set, they seem much more precise and rigid.
Aligning the lights is a bit hit or miss, once the headlight is fitted then its moving it with the torx screw lose until in the desired position and then tightening.
There are guilds on here that I read, but also a couple of you tube videos.
Fortunately, the torx screws was easy, but I thanked the lord that I'd previously bought a set of long shafted (c1ft) torx drivers - not expensive, but far better than using a torx bit from a driver set, they seem much more precise and rigid.
Aligning the lights is a bit hit or miss, once the headlight is fitted then its moving it with the torx screw lose until in the desired position and then tightening.
There are guilds on here that I read, but also a couple of you tube videos.
A2 D2
Member
For my sins, I asked Halfords to replace the bulb and ever since the o/s headlamp has been suffering condensation issues. Now it seems that this is that case and I shall have to remove it myself and follow your guidance. To be clear - you mean Vaseline?
audifan
A2OC Donor
Yes Vaseline is petroleum jelly. Make sure the seal is not twisted and located in the groove all the way around. I suggest removing the headlight only 2 bolts that way you can be sure everything is in place. Before you remove it, try to get the rear cover off, the drivers side is much easier than the passenger side then run the car with main beam on to dry out the condensation first. Once the seal is fitted with the Vaseline any moisture will be trapped inside that is why you have to remove it first, if there is still moisture in the headlight and you have removed it you can use a hair dryer to blow hot air into the back of the headlight to dry it out. Any problems give me a shout.