Is it possible to change the bush without removing the carrier bracket ?
I am afraid I dont have the definite answer, but I reflected a bit upon it here:
Yes ..I will pop down my mates tomorrow and upload a picture of it ..
Mr Skipton, I'm so sorry!So, what was it that Menno said above? Don't worry too much!
Things didn't go too well today. Been out on the car from 10am till 6pm and got one side done. Dennis (the storm), was quite kind though, so I cracked on as best I could.
The bolt, the troublesome one that strips threads in the alloy bracket, well it decided to play a new trick on me. It snapped. Yes, I managed to shear off a 10.9 high tensile bolt so I had no choice to remove the bracket from the subframe. And in doing so, the top ARB bracket bolt also snapped off. So, it was driveshaft out, track rod off, ball joint removed and then cut the ARB bracket with the trusty Dremel and then wiggle out the old wishbone and alloy bracket.
Take into Skipton workshop and first thing was to cut off the remaining wishbone arm to the front bush, so I could get the bush off and then get to the sheared off bolt.
10 mins of angle grinder action later, the bolt end was revealed. Flip over, press out the back of the wishbone, very easy to do with a standard puller.
Then it was grind down the sheared bolt to be flush with the alloy bracket, centre punch and drill a pilot in the middle of the bolt. Fine - 3mm hole drilled and then the b****r goes and snaps off in the bolt. As the drill bit is ultra hard, I then had to drill 2 more holes either side of it, so I could get needle nose pliers in to pull the snapped bit out.
Next up, widen the hole out gradually to 10mm at which point the remaining bolt material started to unwind from the threads and then it was a simple 2 pass with a tap. Nice clean threads revealed and no need for helicoils which is good.
Then, grind off the remaining ARB bracket and tap out the remaining bolt - a job made easy as the bolt was super hot from grinding and the hole it passes through is not threaded.
Tool from ebay worked like a charm to press out the old trailing bush and press in the new one. Clean up all the bores with a wire brush on the trusty Dremel, liberal dosing of copper grease and then it was re-assemble onto Tank.
I've got 2 new alloy brackets on order as next time the job is needing to be done, I know that I'll need them. I'll also pick up a new ARB bracket on Monday - it's secured by a split bracket on the OSF at the moment, which will be fine for the time being.
Everything went back with copper grease liberally applied, wheel is now nicely centred again in the arch and the good news for the NSF wishbone is that it's in much better condition than the other side, so that one will be replaced when the weather is a bit better and there's longer daylight too.
No photos I'm afraid, as between the rain and the grease, my hands were in no state to get around the camera.
No I disagree the forged petrol control arms are different to the diesel arms different part numbers according to lemforder and they make the best quality ones the diesel lemforder part numbers are 27036 and 27037Good afternoon
I am trying to order a pair of new Arms and Bushes for my TDI 90 and despite reading this thread, am still confused:
Am I right in thinking that the forged arms with the integral front bushes are the same for all models (except the 1.2) and it is only the rear bush that is pressed into the so-called aluminium consule that is different?
So, is this Meyle wrap with its part number, which is in the picture, made of cast steel or pressed steel?Wow, absolutely shocking. What did they do - simply wave it through it's MOT?
I take the car has an engine under tray? That said the arms should still be visible on an MOT.
I changed the wishbone arms on my wife's A2 and opted for Meyle parts a couple of years ago. The car is 2003, but it was the integral balljoint version, not the pressed steel version which looks like blue cheese!
Anyone attempting this as a DIY, then this is relatively long job as you need to lower subframe module to access wishbones, and you need to press them out. Pictures attached for reference. Before attempting this, mark the position of the subframe module and the retaining bolts with indelible ink so it lines up exactly.
Yes, this is how we did it. I made a thread about it as well.
Audi / OEM
8Z0 407 151 L
8Z0 407 152 L
116 050 0098
116 050 0099
30 93 9644
30 93 9645