Clutch issue

[eeeboy]

Hello all.

Not a major issue yet, but in the last 1500 miles the gearchange has become a bit stubborn.

Yesterday in traffic, I went to engage first gear to pull away but the b****r wouldn’t shift into gear. I had to pull away in 2nd. There been no similar problems driving to work today.

The mileage at 41500 is low, and the last long service interval took place at Guildford Audi just over 2500 miles ago.

Can the clutch/bite point be adjusted? Or is it one of these “self-adjusting” jobbies?

Surely I’m not looking at a new clutch…..

Any similar experiences out there?

Regards




E.

 

[dilbert]

Can the clutch/bite point be adjusted? Or is it one of these “self-adjusting” jobbies?

eeboy,

The clutch is hydraulic so is self-adjusting. There are usually a few possibilities that spring to mind if the clutch is culprit and I've experienced all of these on different hydraulic clutches over the years (on cars other than A2s):

1) Air in the hydraulic system that needs bleeding out (you should be able to tell if this is the problem as rapidly pumping the pedal will allow gear selection - make sure that you allow it to come back to its fully up position each time)
2) Carpet disturbed under the clutch preventing full depression
3) Weak/perished flexible hydraulic hose that swells under pressure
4) Warped clutch plate causing dragging
5) Left leg has shrunk

 

[spike]

Hi eeboy
In addition to checking out the clutch there is a basic setting procedure for the gearchange cables which may be worth trying

Cheers Spike

 

[Rich.]

I had the same problem today. I lifted the clutch multiple times and pressed it back down today to try to get it to go into first and it wouldnt move... so I ended up pressing clutch and pressing gas a little then it went into first :/

 

[Rich.]

Hi... eee

Can you tell me more about what I should do...

1) Air in the hydraulic system that needs bleeding out (you should be able to tell if this is the problem as rapidly pumping the pedal will allow gear selection - make sure that you allow it to come back to its fully up position each time)

Do I just press the clutch pedal or do I also change gears... how do I know if air needs bleeding out what should happen.

Thanks

 

[dilbert]

Do I just press the clutch pedal or do I also change gears... how do I know if air needs bleeding out what should happen.

The best way is to depress the clutch pedal to the floor as normal then quickly raise your foot so pedal returns to the top of its travel and then immediately (no pause) push it back down. Repeat this a couple of times ending with the pedal to the floor. Now see if it will go into gear. If it goes in more easily then it could be air in the system.

What happens is that at the top of the travel the clutch master cylinder will allow a fraction more fluid into the system (there's some thermodynamics goes on in the trapped air - but let's leave the physics to one side!).

A further, more rare possibility is that the master cyclinder (at the pedal end) or slave cyclinder (at the clutch end) could be insecurely mounted/working loose, allowing some physical movement. That's a 100:1 outsider though.

Finally, memories of a clutch problem I had with an Audi 100 some years ago just came back. Turned out that the clutch fluid had never been changed and, as it is hydroscopic it had absorbed copious amounts of water from the atmosphere. When running hard on a hot summer's day I lost the clutch entirely because the fluid boiled in the clutch pipe that ran alongside the exhaust. The solution was to wait 5 minutes. Vapour condensed, full clutch operation back and off again on the road! It doesn make me think: brake fluid is changed from time to time but unless the fluid is also bled from the clutch slave cylinder (A2 use the same reservoir for both), the old fluid will remain in there as it is in "a blind alley" and therefore doesn't get flushed out. Again this is a 100:1 outsider.

John

 

[Rich.]

The best way is to depress the clutch pedal to the floor as normal then quickly raise your foot so pedal returns to the top of its travel and then immediately (no pause) push it back down. Repeat this a couple of times ending with the pedal to the floor. Now see if it will go into gear. If it goes in more easily then it could be air in the system.

What happens is that at the top of the travel the clutch master cylinder will allow a fraction more fluid into the system (there's some thermodynamics goes on in the trapped air - but let's leave the physics to one side!).

A further, more rare possibility is that the master cyclinder (at the pedal end) or slave cyclinder (at the clutch end) could be insecurely mounted/working loose, allowing some physical movement. That's a 100:1 outsider though.

Finally, memories of a clutch problem I had with an Audi 100 some years ago just came back. Turned out that the clutch fluid had never been changed and, as it is hydroscopic it had absorbed copious amounts of water from the atmosphere. When running hard on a hot summer's day I lost the clutch entirely because the fluid boiled in the clutch pipe that ran alongside the exhaust. The solution was to wait 5 minutes. Vapour condensed, full clutch operation back and off again on the road! It doesn make me think: brake fluid is changed from time to time but unless the fluid is also bled from the clutch slave cylinder (A2 use the same reservoir for both), the old fluid will remain in there as it is in "a blind alley" and therefore doesn't get flushed out. Again this is a 100:1 outsider.

John

Thanks John, there may be a tiny bit of air but the clutch comes straight back up it only makes a slight difference in gear change.. How many hours labour would I be looking at to have the air removed?

 

[eeeboy]

A veritable treasure chest of very useful info there guys - it's helped put my mind at ease.

I will try the various checks/recommendations to help improve/eradicate the situation.

Thanks again for all the info.




The A2OC website just keeps on getting better....... pats on backs all round!

 

[dilbert]

THow many hours labour would I be looking at to have the air removed?

Richard,

Dunno what an Audi Main Dealer would quote but if they take more than 20 minutes I think they are either having you on or need to send their mechanic back to training school.

On an 02 car, and since it doesn't affect the service history, I'd be inclined to go to an independent.

John