Clutch release

MIGA2x2

Member
Seems like something goes wrong every month at the moment - 283000 miles I guess I should be grateful! Latest issue is the clutch release. Drove for 80 miles - all good. Then with no warning it would barely release the clutch and so I drove with clutchless gear changes for the next 90 miles to get where I was going. Had a quick look at the slave cylinder - all looks dry. Left it for 3 days, got in to drive home, clutch was just releasing, so I could start in first gear and get rolling, and drove home - another 170 miles without using the clutch. After a week, the clutch release seems better, but still not right. The slave cylinder still looks dry. Brake fluid level is full as I understand the clutch and brake are served by the same reservoir. I can’t see any fluid around the clutch pedal, but can’t see the master cylinder. my initial thought is there is air getting in the system somewhere, but not sure where to look for that - Although pumping the clutch does not improve anything. Clutch itself seems fine. How do I bleed the clutch fluid? Do I have to do the brakes as well? Any special equipment necessary? I do not know when the brake fluid was changed - car is now 19 years old and a lot of miles - so suspect it was done at some point. Brakes are fine. Any ideas anyone?
 

audifan

A2OC Donor
Bleed the clutch through the little bleed nipple on the top of the slave cylinder located on the top of the gearbox just next to the selector cables. Be careful as it is made of plastic.
 
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MIGA2x2

Member
Thanks for that - I have found the slave cylinder - off to get brake fluid etc to do the bleeding. What would cause it to get air in it though - any ideas?
 

Un4tural

Member
I had some in mine when a brake caliper decided to pee brake liquid all out overnight and had to bleed the whole system - it is shared between brakes and clutch

Other than one of the hoses having perished or reservoir being empty doubt there is much else, if it is just the slave cylinder it could be seals on that i suppose, though would expect liquid to leak as well - check under the gearbox if there is any wetting in the lil gap where you can just see the flyweek/clutch assembly (assuming same as on ATL) - it has a rubber con uh sleeve thing over the metal shaft, so if it is leaking liquid on that end and rubber sleeve is perished it might be leaking through that end - from memory anyway, it looked like that would avoid clutch/flywheel dripping inside the casing and draining down. It is well fiddly to remove slave cylinder and even though possible you'll need very flexible hands if you want to avoid taking off gearbox shifter cables etc. to access it.

Is brake liquid low/leaking at all?
 

MIGA2x2

Member
Brake fluid level is full, I removed the slave cylinder to see if there was any leaking inside the gearbox/clutch housing and that all seems dry, and the slave cylinder piston moves in and out freely. I cannot see any fluid around the brakes and the brakes are all working fine. I did remove the gear shifter to get access to the slave cylinder - it all came apart very easily - I hope it goes back together the same way!!
 

kp 115

A2OC Donor
Thanks for that - I have found the slave cylinder - off to get brake fluid etc to do the bleeding. What would cause it to get air in it though - any ideas?
Hi MIGA2x2,
The brake fluid is hygroscopic ie: it absorbs moisture/water over time & this is the reason the service schedule states 48 months for fluid exchange.
If you are doing your own maintenance then I would consider a vacuum bleed unit , I got one from amazon for approximately £14.00 that runs from a compressor Pneumatic Air Brake Fluid Bleeder Bleeding One Man Tool Kit 1L https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01F5KFTLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_25EwFbYVVCV42
 

audifan

A2OC Donor
Clutch is the easiest of the hydraulics to bleed / flush. The line is so short that there is not really any need to use any equipment other than a jar and length of clear tube. Remove the filler cap and top up the fluid all the way, put your ring spanner on the bleed nipple fit the clear tubing over the nipple and the other end in the jar. pen the bleed nipple then pump the clutch pedal 6 times. add more fluid to the reservoir then pump the clutch to flush the fluid through the nipple until the max level on the reservoir is reached. Tighten the nipple but not too much just nip it up. Remove jar, tubing and spanner. Recheck the fluid level and tighten the cap. Wipe any spilt fluid and check for leaks.
 

MIGA2x2

Member
Thanks guys - I will have a go at the weekend - I don’t have a compressor but do have one that fits onto a spare wheel - same principle I guess. Hopefully over the weekend resolve this issue! Thanks for all the help - I’ll report back with the outcome.
 

kp 115

A2OC Donor
Thanks guys - I will have a go at the weekend - I don’t have a compressor but do have one that fits onto a spare wheel - same principle I guess. Hopefully over the weekend resolve this issue! Thanks for all the help - I’ll report back with the outcome.
Hi MIGA2x2,
Yes the easibleed type does the same thing .
Just even easier with the linked item as so controllable.
Good luck
Keith
 
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