comfort control unit?

Well I've recently been having a few issues. Unable to pop the fuel filler flap via the switch & also when remote unlocking and being sat in the vehicle the central locking activates without touching the remote fob. With the help of the forum I believe it to be the comfort control unit.

I've ordered an identical one of eBay but the remote fob doesn't work or the fuel flap release. So is the replacement also faulty, the joys of buying used parts off eBay!

So my question is does Lau still repair the comfort control units & how would I make contact.
 
What version box did you have? Is the new one the same version (identified by the letters after the '959' number) ? Did you program the remotes to the new box?
 
Hi Sarge, both units are 8Z0 959 433 AF. No I've not tried to re-program the keys. I assumed as it was like for like boxes it was a straight swop-out. Aren't the keys programmed to the instrument pod?
 
It is highly unusual to have a 'AF' fail, you will need a coding device like VCDS to program the remotes to the box.
 
Sounds more likely to be the drivers door lock causing the fuel flap problem

Did the replacement unit come with the remote button part of the key?
 
both units are 8Z0 959 433 AF
As mentioned, the AF units are fairly bulletproof. Also, your car's symptoms don't sound like CCCU failure to me.

Aren't the keys programmed to the instrument pod?
The keys are two halves. The top half (the immobiliser section) is coded to the instrument cluster. The bottom half (remote central locking) is coded to the CCCU. So, if you change CCCU, you also need to reprogramme the remote central locking.

Sounds more likely to be the drivers door lock causing the fuel flap problem
I completely agree. The symptoms described here are due to (multiple) failing/failed microswitch circuits within the door locks.

When you open the just driver's door, does the instrument cluster display the 'door open' symbol, etc?

Cheers,

Tom
 
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As mentioned, the AF units are fairly bulletproof. Also, your car's symptoms don't sound like CCCU failure to me.


The keys are two halves. The top half (the immobiliser section) is coded to the instrument cluster. The bottom half (remote central locking) is coded to the CCCU. So, if you change CCCU, you also need to reprogramme the remote central locking.


I completely agree. The symptoms described here are due to (multiple) failing/failed microswitch circuits within the door locks.

When you open the just driver's door, does the instrument cluster display the 'door open' symbol, etc?

Cheers,

Tom
Morning Tom, no not when I just unlock (can say I recall it doing this at all). With ignition on it shows door open?
 
Morning Tom, no not when I just unlock (can say I recall it doing this at all). With ignition on it shows door open?

So, regarding the fuel flap issue...
The car's software will only allow the fuel flap to be opened if the driver's door is open. So, if the car cannot see the open/closed status of the driver's door, the fuel flap release stops working. The button to open the fuel flap (on the driver's B-pillar) should illuminate when the driver's door is open, indicating that it's ready to be used. If this button doesn't illuminate when the driver's door is opened, you know there's a problem with the microswitch circuit within the driver's door lock.
If the fuel flap release button does illuminate, but pressing it achieves nothing, then the problem is either with the button itself, the release actuator at the flap, the wiring or the CCCU.

Let's solve this problem and then we'll move on to the issue of the central locking cycling of its own accord.

Cheers,

Tom
 
I have something similar here :D When i open the driver door, the fuel cap is open too :))
 
OK Tom, this is a frequent & intermittent problem. Yes the switches do illuminate some times & when they do the fuel flap will release. However on the occasions when the switches do not illuminate if a gently rock the door then they do illuminate. ???
 
so either a broken wire in the door loom (likely in the rubber conduit from A pillar to door) or more likely a solder joint is failing in the drivers side door lock (rocking door flexis the loom and therefore the joint) or less likely a micro switch on the door lock
 
I have something similar here :D When i open the driver door, the fuel cap is open too :))
likely to be the fuel flap switch is permanently pressed in (or shorted) so as soon as the door is undone the switch is effectively operated automatically and therefore the flap opens. disconnect the switch and see if the flap is prevented from opening when the door is opened
 
so either a broken wire in the door loom (likely in the rubber conduit from A pillar to door) or more likely a solder joint is failing in the drivers side door lock (rocking door flexis the loom and therefore the joint) or less likely a micro switch on the door lock
Thank you for the information, I'm away for a week so I'll follow up when back. Cheers
 
Hi all, I finally found all the spare parts I have acquired over the past few years. I think I have begun to have issues with the Q cccu. I also have a spare Q but no spare keys but I also found the AF unit with 2 fobs I bought years ago. Now if I use the Q do I just swap the keys part over with the 2 original keys I have or do I replace the Q with the AF and swap the keys but then I think I need to reprogram the keys for it to work 100%. Forgive me if I am wrong or misaligned, just want to keep it running best I can.


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if the keys for the AF came wit hthe AF then you can fit the AF CCCU and use those keys and your original key blade and top part of key plastic (with the transponder in)
 
Hi all, I finally found all the spare parts I have acquired over the past few years. I think I have begun to have issues with the Q cccu. I also have a spare Q but no spare keys but I also found the AF unit with 2 fobs I bought years ago. Now if I use the Q do I just swap the keys part over with the 2 original keys I have or do I replace the Q with the AF and swap the keys but then I think I need to reprogram the keys for it to work 100%. Forgive me if I am wrong or misaligned, just want to keep it running best I can.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
You seem to think if you replace the suspect Q CCCU with another Q then the old Q keys will just work. If that was the case then you would be able to unlock any car with a Q CCCU!!! No, the CCCU listens for a key it 'knows about' (previously paired with). The existing keys will have to be paired to the replacement Q CCCU with VCDS. The same goes for the AF CCCU, existing keys will have to be paired to the CCCU with VCDS, so either way you need VCDS to pair the old keys to the replacement CCCU.

The AF CCCU has a reputation for being far more reliable than the Q so use the AF CCCU as replacement.

Andy
 
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