Coolant change?

birdsd01

A2OC Donor
Just had the TDi serviced (by Audi) and they recommended a coolant flush and refresh. Obviously I was going to have to sell the house to pay for this, but I thought that the coolant was good for the life of the car? The owners manual seems to suggest this? My car has done 53k miles and is just over 5 yrs old. Does this need doing? Or are my friendly dealers just pushing their luck?

Cheers, Dave

PS. It also failed its MOT on amongst other things, a smeering windscreen wiper, and they had fitted a new one only 5 months ago! It only needed cleaning! After some discussion they fitted a new blade FOC. ;)
 
All A2 allready have the new coolant G12 or what the name is (it is orange/red.) . So there is no why, why to chanke it.
Or does the UK cars have a different one? I don't think so.
 
I would think they're trying it on, did they also try and do discs & pads regardless of wear?

In all seriousness they will have checked the concentration of the coolant during a service and should have noted the values and the minimum temperatures on the service sheet. If its come up a little too weak they have two options; top it up (if required they can let some out) or a complete change and flush. It should only need the latter if it has been found that other contaminents are present. Although this is not easy to test yourself the best guide is to take a look in the expansion tank. From memory G12 is pinkish but whatever colour it is it should look clean if you know what I mean. Nothing floating in it and not looking, well, generally mucky.

Hope this helps

Jonathan
 
Cheers Guys,

My friendly dealer did infact try to "sell" me new discs and pads on the front, and a strip down of the rear drums, all for the price of a week in Tenerife!! Even though they both comfortably passed the MOT test!!
The coolant visible in the expansion tank is pink, and is clear. So I guess it will be OK. I will get some Audi approved coolant just in case I need to top it up in the future.

Thanks again, great site, makes A2 ownership a pleasant experience!

Love my A2, rapidly going off my Audi dealer!!

Dave
 
Hi Dave
I personally think there is a lot of merit in changing the coolant when the cambelt and water pump is replaced, usually after 4 years. While a basic test will confirm the freezing properties of the coolant it cannot detect if the anti corrosion additives have been depleted.

Cheers Spike
 
Free winter check...

I had one of thoses free checks done by the AA and two things came up.

1. My foot pump with gauge is broken has I have 36psi in all tyres - gauge reads 32psi.
2. The coolant is very weak at only -1.

First one sorted, Ive gone back to using the macinical sliding gauge.

The second is where you come in... I have bought new coolant 1.5 ltr G12 Plus Plus (no its written twice), only thing is how do you get some of the old stuff out without flooding the engine bay?

I'm also not ready to inhail (syphon) it either; is there a cheap hand pump thingy I could buy?
 
I sometimes check mine with those pump things that suck the fluid out and show you the level of protection on your coolant, if the level is too low put some coolant in, so you can suck out all the coolant and refill if you want?
 
This is from ELSA - I was expecting to find a drain plug on the radiator but it seems you just pull the bottom hose off.

hope this helps

Jonathan

– Open filler cap on coolant expansion tank.

– Remove noise insulation -arrows-.

– Place drip tray -V.A.G 1306- under engine.
– Pull lower coolant hose off radiator connection and drain off coolant.
– To drain coolant from engine also remove coolant hoses from oil cooler -arrows-.
NotePlease observe requirements for disposal.
Filling
Note The cooling system is filled all year round with a mixture of water and antifreeze/corrosion protection agent.
t It is important to use only coolant additive Plus -G 012 A8F A1- (also designated as “G12+”) “meeting specification TL VW 774 F”. Other coolant additives could seriously impair in particular the anticorrosion properties. The resulting damage could lead to loss of coolant and consequently to serious engine damage.
t Coolant additive “G12+” may be mixed with additives “G11” and “G12”.
t “G12+” and coolant additives marked “Meets specification TL VW 774 F” prevent frost and corrosion damage and stop scale from forming. Such additives also raise the boiling point of the coolant. For these reasons the cooling system must be filled all year round with the correct antifreeze and anticorrosion additive.
t Because of its high boiling point, the coolant improves engine reliability under heavy loads, particularly in countries with tropical climates.
t Frost protection is required down to about -25 °C (in countries with arctic climate: down to about -35 °C).
t The coolant concentration must not be reduced by adding water even in warmer seasons and in warmer countries. The antifreeze percentage must be at least 40 %.
t If greater frost protection is required in very cold climates, the amount of “G 12+” can be increased, but only up to 60 % (this gives frost protection to about -40 °C). If the antifreeze percentage exceeds 60%, frost protection decreases again and cooling efficiency is also impaired.
t Only use clean drinking water for mixing coolant.
t If radiator, heat exchanger, cylinder head, cylinder head gasket or cylinder block have been renewed, do not re-use old coolant.
t Contaminated or dirty coolant must not be used again.
t To check frost protection level of coolant additive “G12+” you must use a refractometer -T10007-.
– Attach coolant hose (bottom) to radiator connection.
– Connect coolant hoses to oil cooler.
 
Update...

I obtained a syphon hand pump and drained about 750ml out of the header (expansion) tank and re-filled this with neat G12 Plus Plus.

I will let this run through for a few weeks and then repeat with the rest of the bottle.
 
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