Correct method to re-join snapped fuel temperature sensor wiring

froggy

froggy

Member
Quite a few threads on this wiring snapping and some dodgy looking repairs (by previous owners I hasten to add!) - although a couple of people have told me its easy, I have no idea on how to fix this and I can’t find any threads of somebody correctly repairing them. Could anybody advise on the wiring to use and correct joining method to re-attach them please? I need to add a piece of the same wire to both broken pieces and re-join, as they are too short now to simply twist back together and solder.
 

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There are only 2 wires. Neither are power or ground. The sensor acts as a variable resistor so provided the wires are connected into the loom and not shorting out it does not make any difference which wire is connected to the other. Either use the existing wires and solder the connections and heat shrink protect or buy a replacement plug with pig tails and solder these into the cars loom again insulating the join with heat shrink tubing.

I buy my connectors from n2f connectors on ebay... Been a while since I checked out the connector but you will need the correct plug ( male or female ) with the prewired leads...

Security measure

www.ebay.co.uk www.ebay.co.uk

this may be the plug but please check

1647648777704.png


And if it is here from h2f connectors page....

www.ebay.co.uk

AUDI 1J0973702. 2 PIN PLUG CONNECTOR 1J0 973 702 MULTI USES FREEPOST +CRIMPS | eBay

Reference 1J0973702 1J0 973 702 (Female). AUDI 2 PIN CONNECTOR PRE WIRED WITH 30CM TAIL LEADS. 1 x Female Connector. 1 x Rubber Boot (connects sleeve to connector). Multiple uses including, but not limited to.
www.ebay.co.uk

But as I said check this is correct. If not find the part number on the plug and search their site. One last thing DO NOT use the but connectors instead solder the joints.
 
This is a common question, basically you splice them back to the wires on the harness but as you have lost quite a bit of insulation you are most likely looking at new wires.

First break into the harness and find the ends of the wire, cut them staggered, I don't like a splice next to a splice. I like to be able to tape the two wires together before the first splice, between the splices and after the second splice.

Get your new wires, Audi sell them ready terminated but only in yellow insulation. Or terminate some wires in the correct colours. Either way fit them to your connector.

Cut the wires to length and splice to the main harness.

Method 1, remove insulation from last 5mm of mating wires and tin the copper. Slip a heat shrink tube on, preferably the adhesive type. solder the two tinned ends together side by side. slide over the tube and shrink to insulate.

Method 2, Audi workshop method. get a couple of crimp with adhesive splices. Strip the insulation, crimp the splice, heat shrink to secure and seal the splice.

Tape before the first splice, between the two and after the second.

Tessa tape or tube main harness. If it is tube, splice and tube before fitting the terminals to the connector.

Will get pictures if that helps, if you need the car for Monday break into the main harness and see where you stand with wire lengths. Your local Audi dealer may have the wires in stock. They may even give you a couple of connectors, mine used to.
 
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Thank you both, I didn’t even know what type of connector to use. I’ve managed to re-wire every fitting in my entire house over the years so you would think this would be simple enough for me, but just the words “break into the harness” fill me with dread ? I will try to get the parts today and post some pictures of the progress tomorrow.
 
They crimp then a heat gun shrinks the tube. The tube has adhesive in it so it holds the joint and keeps moisture out. It is very difficult to pull out.
I try to avoid solder these days as the flux will eventually cause corrosion.
 
Are you sure 1J0973802 is the correct connector? It looks like a brake wear sensor connector to me with male pins. When it warms up I'll take a look. I don't recall buying any male pins but I may have done.

My car has the same repair, my harness is Tessa taped, easy to break into, just unwind the tape and put new on:

Albert 24.jpg
 
You need to double check the part number but @audifan posted the best advice. Get a prewired new connector:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185266819176?_trkparms=ispr=1&hash=item2b22c35068:g:i8UAAOSwt1ph7JI7&amdata=enc:AQAGAAACkPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsS7UXID%2BRPOSNsnm8kYPghtPxzaxCdDyzSCp5sMQYszEVgr7CsRzJsvqOZj8Id73PBxCH25JSEgToDM%2FIKouo2BEiIrTCa8KRfGvBCoONM2f2I6UYz%2FXxjAGWU7yYPFsrFQ9BpxGRC6wBba1m5f%2B3sT4HS3c%2Bc7Ri0UAGr71nUtjPZ8BW8J1cG%2BZvioK06amEjN3eNNpPwgPmbhHk6gJpsmgyo%2F86mMXJJz7IVIRKqqDee%2F6pkesSVZZ1AsHif%2BMHgTn1bCrqtYwijfhUe7mAg%2FZ1IstCmI5IrjNF0tLo9cIM9toFZp%2BRPjSX7EhWSQPo%2FBI%2BGHnT0bNVpPh8w3E0H0jnJ3qm%2FUHJUksj7Pn1jQf8al2451LyJ3fewgCDZH5N950eneq3GWdqVwFEzr9mc0JbtHtXnwZe0gAAJL9SklC3OQsbTeiXDF1QCbR93t27uVg%2FU8dYq7pT%2FYKkO6zLGNKvlHzmxTaLN%2Fk87RS%2FMVTqg2fyziOBj10vBVuKp0i%2Bf6wg98gaQ3DuVTIXVskutSC6vpoe6cuT%2BLBAOPouDQtsKTrzQz4Zlfb%2FASXzhoTCKljlHW%2FCzelgN7vy4G58AAekKiNWT5Z1JulnitjCJ0EuWyaBeqcUj5a1aFi0aTxJmGs1c4J7UN0d0NbhlVe8EL4BFcGrDJANd3gv2GOWXVt7Kp3v4KaMf3IVtjJL%2FkiYmHRPJT5fuE72mW%2BobzUV2qJR1P%2BNgRSzq6ZGHL64IvcEtgUEuSLGYdZuh0HOTxxfuKN%2B%2BZYku5NnC2fc%2BN7qZbChMcHKgki8IgQwqTYy7Gc%2FP3entZ9ecktPVPzCrQe3Y|clp:2334524|tkp:BFBM0qW_t_Vf

Dealing with fitting new terminals could be a bit of a challenge if you are new to wiring repairs. A stripped down 1J0973702:

Albert 25.jpg


If you are up for the challenge I've written a How To; https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/how-to-repair-a-1j0973702-2-pin-connector.49331/

Then you need the splice connectors, or be up for a soldering challenge, and the Tessa tape or tube.

Edit, check how long the replacement wires need to be, 150mm may not be long enough.
 
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philward said:
You need to double check the part number but @audifan posted the best advice. Get a prewired new connector:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185266819176?_trkparms=ispr=1&hash=item2b22c35068:g:i8UAAOSwt1ph7JI7&amdata=enc:AQAGAAACkPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsS7UXID%2BRPOSNsnm8kYPghtPxzaxCdDyzSCp5sMQYszEVgr7CsRzJsvqOZj8Id73PBxCH25JSEgToDM%2FIKouo2BEiIrTCa8KRfGvBCoONM2f2I6UYz%2FXxjAGWU7yYPFsrFQ9BpxGRC6wBba1m5f%2B3sT4HS3c%2Bc7Ri0UAGr71nUtjPZ8BW8J1cG%2BZvioK06amEjN3eNNpPwgPmbhHk6gJpsmgyo%2F86mMXJJz7IVIRKqqDee%2F6pkesSVZZ1AsHif%2BMHgTn1bCrqtYwijfhUe7mAg%2FZ1IstCmI5IrjNF0tLo9cIM9toFZp%2BRPjSX7EhWSQPo%2FBI%2BGHnT0bNVpPh8w3E0H0jnJ3qm%2FUHJUksj7Pn1jQf8al2451LyJ3fewgCDZH5N950eneq3GWdqVwFEzr9mc0JbtHtXnwZe0gAAJL9SklC3OQsbTeiXDF1QCbR93t27uVg%2FU8dYq7pT%2FYKkO6zLGNKvlHzmxTaLN%2Fk87RS%2FMVTqg2fyziOBj10vBVuKp0i%2Bf6wg98gaQ3DuVTIXVskutSC6vpoe6cuT%2BLBAOPouDQtsKTrzQz4Zlfb%2FASXzhoTCKljlHW%2FCzelgN7vy4G58AAekKiNWT5Z1JulnitjCJ0EuWyaBeqcUj5a1aFi0aTxJmGs1c4J7UN0d0NbhlVe8EL4BFcGrDJANd3gv2GOWXVt7Kp3v4KaMf3IVtjJL%2FkiYmHRPJT5fuE72mW%2BobzUV2qJR1P%2BNgRSzq6ZGHL64IvcEtgUEuSLGYdZuh0HOTxxfuKN%2B%2BZYku5NnC2fc%2BN7qZbChMcHKgki8IgQwqTYy7Gc%2FP3entZ9ecktPVPzCrQe3Y|clp:2334524|tkp:BFBM0qW_t_Vf

Dealing with fitting new terminals could be a bit of a challenge if you are new to wiring repairs. A stripped down 1J0973702:

View attachment 92433

If you are up for the challenge I've written a How To; https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/how-to-repair-a-1j0973702-2-pin-connector.49331/

Then you need the splice connectors, or be up for a soldering challenge, and the Tessa tape or tube.

Edit, check how long the replacement wires need to be, 150mm may not be long enough.
Click to expand...
I was going by graham’s post from 2018
Thread 'replacing damaged wiring plugs'
https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/replacing-damaged-wiring-plugs.35873/
in which he said the fuel sensor was the male 1J0973802. I did see some listings which said it was a brake sensor. I will get inside the engine and check the part number ??
 
philward said:
Is that 1J0973802? Or have you ordered something else?
Click to expand...
Yes I have 1J0973802 but I remember you said it could well be 1J0973702. Been mad busy all week so hopefully Sunday will get chance to at least have a look in the engine bay.
 
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