Cruise Conundrum

dr_jones

Member
I’m after some help from the gurus!

I have retro @Skipton01 cruise fitted to my 2003 TDi colour storm, fitted about 13 years ago I think! It recently became very intermittent and as a result I have replaced the clutch switch with oem, brake switch, checked the fuses, and fitted a new stalk. I’ve also resoldered the joint on the wire that connects into the brake switch wiring.

I’m lost now as it’s still not working.

Any ideas clever people?
 
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PlasticMac

Member
I’m after some help from the gurus!

I have retro @Skipton01 cruise fitted to my 2003 TDi colour storm, fitted about 13 years ago I think! It recently became very intermittent and as a result I have replaced the clutch switch with oem, brake switch, checked the fuses, and fitted a new stalk. I’ve also resoldered the joint on the wire that connects into the brake switch wiring.

I’m lost now as it’s still not working.

Any ideas clever people?
Check it's still coded in via VCDS.
Mac.
 

audifan

A2OC Donor
Check the other wiring to either a connector near the ECU or directly into the ECU.
You can verify the various switches are working as they should using VCDS.
 

PlasticMac

Member
Great thanks guys, is there anyone with VCDS in the Herts/Beds area that could help?
Mac.
 

dr_jones

Member
Mac, i think you are spot on with your diagnosis, my local garage deleted an airbag warning light and perhaps Uncoded the cruise perhaps? Is this an easy job to code this back in? I can’t seem to find anybody local to me that can help.
 

audifan

A2OC Donor
We are going back round the loop of VCDS scan and possible repair needed. At this rate you will be quicker getting your own VCDS and cable. I do not use the free Lite version so do not know if cruise can be enabled with Lite or if you need to upgrade to licensed version to enable the cruise.
You will also be able to check the various switches are working. I would be rather annoyed if a garage had cleared an airbag light and turned off the cruise. Too many things to go wrong not using VCDS or a very good scanner e.g. snap on. Avoid the generic scanners or those little boxes to clear fault lights.
 

Skipton01

Admin Team
As the original installer, I can tell you that checking the coding or re-coding is quite straightforward.

However, your stated symptoms of gradual failure are typical of the switch contacts wearing out - the copper tracks on the ribbon cables gradually wear away on each push of the button to activate cruise, or on each slide of the adjustment switch on the face of the stalk. I see you've also replaced this stalk, so was the 10-way plug replaced fully - did it click?

It's unlikely that a cleared airbag light has cleared cruise coding - they're not in the same area of software. VCDS is able to show the functioning of each part of the cruise switch, so that would be the first step to check. Reflowing the solder to the brake switch shouldn't have been necessary, but the replacement of the brake and clutch switches has presumably ruled those out. You're not using LED brake light bulbs are you? Is there a bulb check light on intermittently? Has any ECU coding been done, or wiring dislodged to the ECU, or behind the audio headhunt/flasher relay area? These are all things to check first, but without VCDS, you're taking stabs in the dark.
 

dr_jones

Member
Thanks very much for the detailed reply Mike, I have fond memories of visiting for the cruise fitting and having a ride in tank!

I’ve had a look at the VCDS owners map and it doesn’t look like there is anybody local to Herts/beds. The closest wasn’t able to help.

How much would the kit be to have a go at scanning it and potentially recoding back in?
 

PlasticMac

Member
If you have a Windows laptop (XP to W10), download the free version of VCDS Lite from Rosstech (don't install any version other than the genuine download), and a KKL lead from eBay at under a tenner. This will get you started. If you like it, and get on with it, register it for $75. Rosstech then send you a software key file, which when installed removes the limitations of the free version. That what I run, and have done for 5 years. No problems. Only works for pre 2005/06 VAG models though. Find for A2 and Mk1 TTs.
Mac.
 

timmus

A2OC Donor
Deactivating cruise control cannot be done accidentally whilst sorting out an airbag issue. It cannot be done by accidentally pressing the wrong button. It requires someone to enter a specific code into a specific location within the engine management system. To disable cruise control, you really have to want to disable cruise control.

I cannot image that Mike’s wiring has failed unless it’s been accidentally damaged by someone.
The original A2 cruise control stalks, with the single SET button on the end, are far less reliable than the variant with the rocker switch on the end (see here if you’re not familiar with the difference: https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/service-offered-retrofitting-cruise-control.23513/). The single-button versions suffer from an internal fault where setting cruise control also cancels cruise control in the same action.

Brake light bulbs that aren’t seated properly also cause non-operational cruise control.

If you’d like to place this issue under the nose of someone who’ll just fix it, then you’ll know Mike is an excellent choice. However, if he’s otherwise engaged with family matters and his day job, then I’ll happily do so. I know the A2’s electrics like the back of my hand.

Cheers,

Tom
 

RAB

Technical Specialist 1.2 TDI
If you have a Windows laptop (XP to W10), download the free version of VCDS Lite from Rosstech (don't install any version other than the genuine download), and a KKL lead from eBay at under a tenner. This will get you started. If you like it, and get on with it, register it for $75. Rosstech then send you a software key file, which when installed removes the limitations of the free version. That what I run, and have done for 5 years. No problems. Only works for pre 2005/06 VAG models though. Find for A2 and Mk1 TTs.
Mac.
Rather than risk buying a lead from Ebay, with the chance that it may not have full functionality, pay a bit more for a lead that is specifically for VCDS Lite:


RAB
 

audifan

A2OC Donor
Not getting into an argument over which cable to buy. Yes quality is better with the Gendan but for the casual owner an ebay KKL cable is better than a generic reader. With experience and need then either a Gendan cable and licensed Lite or go full fat VCDS.

Avoid the really cheap cables they are bad and not all work with VCDS Lite
 

PlasticMac

Member
Not getting into an argument over which cable to buy. Yes quality is better with the Gendan but for the casual owner an ebay KKL cable is better than a generic reader. With experience and need then either a Gendan cable and licensed Lite or go full fat VCDS.

Avoid the really cheap cables they are bad and not all work with VCDS Lite
At £19.94, I won't argue either 👍
Grab one while you can. Good spot @RAB
Mac.
 
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