Deadlocked Rear Passenger Side Door

On ours I just pulled the purple tab towards me, away from the car. It did snap off but I managed to pull it out. It is easily accessable from inside as well by removing the B pillar trim, that may be the way to go to get a good hold on the inside plug.

Ian
 
I just found one in the garage and, once you have released the purple clip on the body, the connector should just pull out by pressing the tab where my finger nail is. There is no other tab or clip by the looks of it. Anyhow, I do have a couple spare here if required.
Ian
 

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I just found one in the garage and, once you have released the purple clip on the body, the connector should just pull out by pressing the tab where my finger nail is. There is no other tab or clip by the looks of it. Anyhow, I do have a couple spare here if required.
Ian
Thanks. I have separated it now thanks to Proghound's advice about the purple sliding tab. It slides sideways. One wire has pulled out as I've mentioned before.
Got to find a way of connecting it back. The You Tube video on repairing VW connectors shows the common D- type which has a retaining brass clip and he uses a hairpin to push the terminals in and out. This one is different; it has a purple notched piece (same function as the brass clip, but more fragile maybe), that only goes into the plug from one side (blind hole). Hope that releases ok. More fun tomorrow.
Appreciated all the advice so far.
 
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Thanks. I have separated it now thanks to Proghound's advice about the purple sliding tab. It slides sideways. One wire has pulled out as I've mentioned before.
Got to find a way of connecting it back. The You Tube video on repairing VW connectors shows the common D- type which has a retaining brass clip and he uses a hairpin to push the terminals in and out. This one is different; it has a purple notched piece (same function as the brass clip, but more fragile maybe), that only goes into the plug from one side (blind hole). Hope that releases ok. More fun tomorrow.
Appreciated all the advice so far.

On ours I just pulled the purple tab towards me, away from the car. It did snap off but I managed to pull it out. It is easily accessable from inside as well by removing the B pillar trim, that may be the way to go to get a good hold on the inside plug.

Ian
It slides towards the front of the car about 1/16'' away from the white marking. I broke the purple loop by pulling it forward. Luckily that doesn't
stop it going sideways.
 
So, I had one apart only a few weeks ago, albeit a newer type that is slightly different, on ours the purple retainer bar pulled completely out, but even then you still need some extractors to remove the pin. The extractor I used was about 2-3mm wide from memory, and it pushed down the middle, between a pair of pins to release them (if that makes sense)
 
Thanks. I'll try moving the serrated purple retainer to release the terminals. I reckon I can rig up a temporary link between the detached wire to the plug and see if it works.
I measured 12v on it yesterday. I'm hoping this is the break in the circuit causing the trouble, and it cures all.
Process of elimination.
 
Yes, two heavy gauge live and neutral go to the window regulator and the power is distributed from there I believe, the others are lighter gauge, as you say, and are just control wires.
 
I just found one in the garage and, once you have released the purple clip on the body, the connector should just pull out by pressing the tab where my finger nail is. There is no other tab or clip by the looks of it. Anyhow, I do have a couple spare here if required.
Ian
I think I've found the cause of my troubles. It's bad/broken wires at the passenger B post.
One small one pulled out, but I cleaned and jammed it back in.
The cause of the door lock problem appears to be the Red-Yellow medium gauge wire. This comes from the main harness. It broke off at the plug.
Doing a temporary link to this wire with everything off the door, including a replacement used lock; it all now operates with the key fob.
The window motor runs both ways too. This had previously worked, but then packed up as well.
Ideally I need the plug 8ZO 972 702. Are these the ones you have?
Phoned Maidstone Audi today. He told me it's obsolete.
I can't see how the purple terminal retainer slides out on this plug. Doesn't move in any direction.
I need to do this to replace parts.
Is your's free to move?
The door harness plug 8Z0 972 701 is available. I can get away without that.
My door harness (mine's an early car) 8Z0 971 693AP is also obsolete. It's fine enough.
After-market male and female terminals are available, along with several other plugs, but not this one.
Let me know cost/postage for a plug, and your address (in a conversation), and I can send a cheque or stamps and SAE.
Thanks very much, and for your previous advice. Keith.
 
@Kleynie Can you possibly show from spare parts you have how members separate these plugs. After sliding the lock across do they unclip the top of the connector and push it into the car then separate the halves? Do they split so the door half stays in the B pillar and the loom comes off the inside with its half plug? Can you picture how the second tab is situated when the plugs are fitted to the car? When situated in the car it is not obvious exactly where the plug splits and if there are any other clips or locks that need wedging.

I have never done this job and from the quick look I took those were the things not immediately obvious. No doubt several members have done so on many occasions but for those that have not experienced these plugs the above will be really helpful.

Thank you for helping.
 
@Kleynie Can you possibly show from spare parts you have how members separate these plugs. After sliding the lock across do they unclip the top of the connector and push it into the car then separate the halves? Do they split so the door half stays in the B pillar and the loom comes off the inside with its half plug? Can you picture how the second tab is situated when the plugs are fitted to the car? When situated in the car it is not obvious exactly where the plug splits and if there are any other clips or locks that need wedging.

I have never done this job and from the quick look I took those were the things not immediately obvious. No doubt several members have done so on many occasions but for those that have not experienced these plugs the above will be really helpful.

Thank you for helping.
After pulling off the rubber boot; push it as far down as possible. Releasing the interior pillar trim at the top is enough (insert a plastic strip under it to let your fingers get behind it. It's held by 2 metal spring clips. It comes off fairly easily.
Probably best to spray WD 40 on the top purple plastic loop.
2 white marks align when it's all locked in position.
Slide the purple loop (use a small screwdriver) 1mm approx whilst keeping your fingers on the plug inside the car.
Push the black tab on the outer plug while pulling, and it releases.
The inner plug 8Z0 972 702 (obsolete) rests at the bottom of the hole by 2 hook shaped tabs.
When reassembling, locate the bottom of the plug and push the top home fully.
Insert the outer plug from the door harness, and slide the purple top back so the white marks align again.
This locks the whole assembly in place.
When I first looked at mine, it wasn't locked in position, and could be pushed into the hole. Someone not very careful had been there before.
If it isn't fixed firmly the hard black plastic cover won't fit properly.
Hope this helps. Be careful and don't force anything. Good luck.
I still need a good replacement inner plug.
 
There's vids on YouTube. You'll need a pin extraction tool too, I think.
Like this one:
1619264980284.png

Made by Laser, on Amazon and ebay, about £10.
Mac.
 
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I think I've found the cause of my troubles. It's bad/broken wires at the passenger B post.
One small one pulled out, but I cleaned and jammed it back in.
The cause of the door lock problem appears to be the Red-Yellow medium gauge wire. This comes from the main harness. It broke off at the plug.
Doing a temporary link to this wire with everything off the door, including a replacement used lock; it all now operates with the key fob.
The window motor runs both ways too. This had previously worked, but then packed up as well.
Ideally I need the plug 8ZO 972 702. Are these the ones you have?
Phoned Maidstone Audi today. He told me it's obsolete.
I can't see how the purple terminal retainer slides out on this plug. Doesn't move in any direction.
I need to do this to replace parts.
Is your's free to move?
The door harness plug 8Z0 972 701 is available. I can get away without that.
My door harness (mine's an early car) 8Z0 971 693AP is also obsolete. It's fine enough.
After-market male and female terminals are available, along with several other plugs, but not this one.
Let me know cost/postage for a plug, and your address (in a conversation), and I can send a cheque or stamps and SAE.
Thanks very much, and for your previous advice. Keith.
Sorry for the late reply, are you sorted now?
 
@Kleynie Can you possibly show from spare parts you have how members separate these plugs. After sliding the lock across do they unclip the top of the connector and push it into the car then separate the halves? Do they split so the door half stays in the B pillar and the loom comes off the inside with its half plug? Can you picture how the second tab is situated when the plugs are fitted to the car? When situated in the car it is not obvious exactly where the plug splits and if there are any other clips or locks that need wedging.

I have never done this job and from the quick look I took those were the things not immediately obvious. No doubt several members have done so on many occasions but for those that have not experienced these plugs the above will be really helpful.

Thank you for helping.
Graham, I have answered your PM, but for the benefit of others I have added some more pictures of the plug, once the purple retainer is released the black tab should push in, as I am doing with my fingernail, and then the plug should pull out leaving the socket in the A or B pillar depending on which door you are working on.
Ian
 

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    D7287A45-4218-447F-B990-838029037021.jpeg
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Sorry for the late reply, are you sorted now?
I've ordered 2 supposedly genuine new plugs from deutsche-parts.co.uk for £5 each incl p&p.
Whether these are NOS, I don't know, as obsolete from Audi.
They don't illustrate them in their listings, and the PayPal payment is pending awaiting authorisation. Suspicious? Worries me.
I got this link from Robin_Cox.
I hope they turn up.
Also ordered multiple option, connector extraction tools from elsewhere. Plenty still to do, but at least I've found the cause.
Like lots of others, struggling with a jammed rear seat; luckily driver's side. May never have been out before.
The rear passenger side I'm working on came out, with the balls/washer in locked position.
I cleaned them, and used 2 sockets screwed to a wooden board to free them. They freed separately.
I lubricated with some dry silicone spray, and it works perfectly at the moment with the handle moving a lot further! Pays to remove them periodically I think.
Thanks again.
 
Glad you have got the sockets on order.
Have you read this guide regarding rear seats?

 
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