DJ's adventures in A2 land

the holes in the top of the bumper cover are 4x push rivet, that's all - in the photo 2 were missing.
@Robin_Cox may I ask is this the link for the two missing parts? I have one missing off mine

50 x AUDI Wheel Arch Lining Clip Fastener Retainer Expanding Rivet | eBay

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Thank you, Andrew
 
@Robin_Cox may I ask is this the link for the two missing parts? I have one missing off mine

50 x AUDI Wheel Arch Lining Clip Fastener Retainer Expanding Rivet | eBay

index.php


Thank you, Andrew
yes, although if you only have to replace one or two it would probably make more sense to get the small bag from the same place - link below. Depends if you think you're going under your wheel arches repeatedly and are likely to need more of them. It looks to me from here as if there are also two bolts missing at the extreme edges of view as well - holes visible in the bumper skin upper surface - one is just adjacent to the handle of your ratchet set and the other is on the far edge of the picture (unless you have removed these for the work depicted).

Secondly - is your oil filler cap missing?

 
Did the dog bone on my Blue car yesterday, but not before noticing the bolt nearest the passenger side had been sheared off leaving around 1mm of thread protruding!

I reckoned as it had been like this for while, I’d leave as is for now as the new one felt much better.

Could you share a link to the kit that you purchased, as I may repair at some point if it becomes a problem.

Thanks


Sent from the future
 
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Did the dog bone on my Blue car yesterday, but not before noticing the bolt nearest the passenger side had been sheared off leaving around 1mm of thread protruding!

I reckoned as it had been like this for while, I’d leave as is for now as the new one felt much better.

Could you share a link to the kit that you purchased, as I may repair at some point if it becomes a problem.

Thanks


Sent from the future
when you do a 6-speed swap, only 2 bolts are used to attach the dogbone end to the gearbox compared to the A2-box's three. You may be o.k without doing this.
 
@Robin_Cox yes that’s Akoya and yes there are bolts missing - would it be the standard 10mm bolts do you think? Or are they special?

@Cenick - if you have some bolt protruding then you don’t need a tap kit, you can weld a nut on and undo with a socket / spanner. Or alternatively you could try a good strong pair of mole grips.
 
@Robin_Cox yes that’s Akoya and yes there are bolts missing - would it be the standard 10mm bolts do you think? Or are they special?

@Cenick - if you have some bolt protruding then you don’t need a tap kit, you can weld a nut on and undo with a socket / spanner. Or alternatively you could try a good strong pair of mole grips.
I know that there are two of them having taken them off and put them back on doing the bumper skin swap three weeks ago, but unlike the push-rivets which are clearly specified in isolation, the part number for them is not specified on the diagram. Instead there is a "no longer available" fittings pack that would have contained the appropriate components - so I don't know the exact specification. I will need to open the bonnet and undo one of them to verify. Luckily I am on annual leave this week so will get it done.

Daft question - are they also missing on Audrey - that might be a bit quicker?
 
@Cenick - if you have some bolt protruding then you don’t need a tap kit, you can weld a nut on and undo with a socket / spanner. Or alternatively you could try a good strong pair of mole grips.

There is the smallest bit of thread sticking out so mole grips would be no good, welding I’d need to take somewhere for that.

So most likely going to leave but still be nice to know what you used.

Sent from the future
 
@Cenick - if you have some bolt protruding then you don’t need a tap kit, you can weld a nut on and undo with a socket / spanner. Or alternatively you could try a good strong pair of mole grips.

There is the smallest bit of thread sticking out so mole grips would be no good, welding I’d need to take somewhere for that.
So most likely going to leave but still be nice to know what you used.


Sent from the future
[/QUOTE]
Well I drilled out the stripped threads and used the tap that both came with the helicoil kit. LINK

In your case my next option would be to cut it flush then drill a pilot hole to get a screw extractor some purchase.
 
There is the smallest bit of thread sticking out so mole grips would be no good, welding I’d need to take somewhere for that.
So most likely going to leave but still be nice to know what you used.


Sent from the future
Well I drilled out the stripped threads and used the tap that both came with the helicoil kit. LINK

In your case my next option would be to cut it flush then drill a pilot hole to get a screw extractor some purchase.
[/QUOTE]

thanks, I may try your suggestion.
 
Well Audrey failed the MOT this week on dust covers for both track rod ends and also a dust cover for a drop link. As these can't really be replaced in isolation that means a pair of TREs and a pair of drop links doesn't it? The garage wanted £200 to do this work, I've managed to source Meyle / Meyle HD parts for £52 here:

Pair of drop links
Pair of track rod ends

Now I've got most of my tools plus axle stands in the new workshop this seems a no-brainer to do myself in time for a retest next Monday.

In Akoya news, now I have replaced dog bone mount the "thumping" when starting and on gearchanges etc. has gone - and now I can hear a rhythmic thumping on left-hand corners at speed; it's not a clicking (which would point to a CV joint), so I think it must be a right hand wheel bearing? How easy are they to DIY? For example, are the fronts easier than the rears (which I believe I'd need a hydraulic press for) ??
 
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Nope, you can just replace the dust covers on the ball joint.

Edit: - my mistake i read it as being balljoint dust covers.

Yes just replace the track rod ends yourself and then take it to be tracked afterwards.
 
You can replace dust covers on track rod ends too, my Cobalt TDI had an advisory for one just before I sold it - a £40 job at my local garage.
 
For the cost of new, if you can do it yourself then its well worth doing. Quite a straightforward job too except for the tracking part.
 
Would need a pipe clip to model
Either a complete one or the parts of a broken one

Paul


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Would need a pipe clip to model
Either a complete one or the parts of a broken one

Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’d suggest making it a touch smaller on the inside diameter to hold it tight. Or else Paul thinking about the point made re: vibrations being transmitted to the intercooler maybe a zip tie mounting point using the base of the clip as a starting point to model from, so that the pipe can be safely secured loose?
 
These clips are often broken due to not being opened prior to lowering the engine from the mount when changing the cam belt, once broken the increased strain on the intercooler lower flange cracks and spits out the seal causing limp mode.
 
By keeping the clamp the same size as OEM it will fit both 75 and 90 engines, you could fit an additional foam or rubber packing to reduce fretting on the metal pipe. Compound angles from the sump mounting point makes zip tie awkward. Far better would be 2 parts that bolt together so the angle can be set correctly.
 
Today I made a start on Audrey’s drop link and track rod end replacement - straight into the new workshop and unboxed my new aluminium trolley jack (which being a 2 1/2 tonne version still weighs a good few kilos), first question, where to jack and then where to position the stands? This excellent thread to the rescue!!

1635197210935.jpeg


It took a while to just get to this stage as I was paranoid about damaging the underbody and / or myself by getting it wrong!!

Drop links first - Lots of proper penetrating oil on all the fixings and they all came undone nicely. I take it the old ones were replaced by you Dave @Special edition - as they were of course Meyle HD as per forum consensus. Shame the split rubber boots had condemned them well before their time though, as they had absolutely no play whatsoever in the joints.
The shiny new ones (also Meyle HD of course) went straight on with no need to undo the anti roll bar, which was nice.

The TRE’s I had lined up were also Meyle, however here I can unstuck for want of a nut splitter, as the threads are just spinning along with the nut, so that stopped play for the evening. The retest is booked for Wednesday…
 
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