DJ's adventures in A2 land

I do the same, leave the under tray on for my interim oil change service and as you say if you raise the front end on decent ramps you can just remove the rear most few under tray screws (not absolutely necessary but gives more access) and then what I do is use a thick piece of polythene with a piece of cardboard on top as a funnel to direct any unruly oil into my oil catch container. Works a treat, makes it easier and saves a fair bit of time.
It is a shame the under tray doesn't have a cut out or a removable section like some of my other cars do though as this makes it even easier 👍
 
I do the same, leave the under tray on for my interim oil change service and as you say if you raise the front end on decent ramps you can just remove the rear most few under tray screws (not absolutely necessary but gives more access) and then what I do is use a thick piece of polythene with a piece of cardboard on top as a funnel to direct any unruly oil into my oil catch container. Works a treat, makes it easier and saves a fair bit of time.
It is a shame the under tray doesn't have a cut out or a removable section like some of my other cars do though as this makes it even easier 👍
Every time I’m under there I think about taking a grinder to my undertray - I haven’t plucked up the courage yet and tell myself it’s not much more work to just take the tray off and use that as an opportunity for an inspection - especially if I use a drill driver with the bit holder to speed things up.

On headlamp bulbs, I’ve just taken the plunge:

LINK

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This may divide opinions, however as stated I am satisfied that fitting these will not endanger other road users, will increase my night time vision / make the car less tiring to drive on long dark journeys and hopefully, will cost less in bulbs in the long run (these cost about the same as 4 complete sets of the Philips bulbs though!
 
Every time I’m under there I think about taking a grinder to my undertray - I haven’t plucked up the courage yet and tell myself it’s not much more work to just take the tray off and use that as an opportunity for an inspection - especially if I use a drill driver with the bit holder to speed things up.
😂 Don't do it!
 
Every time I’m under there I think about taking a grinder to my undertray - I haven’t plucked up the courage yet and tell myself it’s not much more work to just take the tray off and use that as an opportunity for an inspection - especially if I use a drill driver with the bit holder to speed things up.

On headlamp bulbs, I’ve just taken the plunge:

LINK

View attachment 133693

This may divide opinions, however as stated I am satisfied that fitting these will not endanger other road users, will increase my night time vision / make the car less tiring to drive on long dark journeys and hopefully, will cost less in bulbs in the long run (these cost about the same as 4 complete sets of the Philips bulbs though!
Suspect you won’t be disappointed.

However, I’ve a funny feeling as soon as you see them in, you’ll then want another set for your fog lights, and appropriate sets for side lights and high beam so the tone of light matches!!!
 
Suspect you won’t be disappointed.

However, I’ve a funny feeling as soon as you see them in, you’ll then want another set for your fog lights, and appropriate sets for side lights and high beam so the tone of light matches!!!
I’ve already got white LED sidelights and number plate lamps Erling - the former were fitted by @Dave M long ago during his tenure and I think that combined with the automatic headlamp switch which turns them on in anything less than bright summer sunshine, this is a useful safety feature when driving along fast country lanes that other drivers are looking to pull out onto.

I don’t use the fog lamps enough for me to really need an upgrade there but happy to stand corrected - it’s the dipped beams which even with the Philips bulbs, were only satisfactory and safe on unlit roads, rather than good! Hence still room for improvement.
 
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I’ve already got white LED sidelights and number plate lamps Erling - the former were fitted by @Dave M long ago during his tenure and I think that combined with the automatic headlamp switch which turns them on in anything less than bright summer sunshine, this is a useful safety feature when driving along fast country lanes that other drivers are looking to pull out onto.

I don’t use the fog lamps enough for me to really need an upgrade there but happy to stand corrected - it’s the dipped beams which even with the Philips bulbs, were only satisfactory and safe on unlit roads, rather than good! Hence still room for improvement.
I take the view that 'main beam' headlights are the ones to use mainly, with dipped headlights being used when continuing to use the main beam lights might dazzle oncoming traffic.
If you're driving on unlit country lanes, I'd recommend trying it.
 
I take the view that 'main beam' headlights are the ones to use mainly, with dipped headlights being used when continuing to use the main beam lights might dazzle oncoming traffic.
If you're driving on unlit country lanes, I'd recommend trying it.
I have found that since fitting the Philips LEDs to the main beam, I have used the main beam more than I did before, as it's now provides really effective medium to long range illumination. Maybe even more important to get the headlight aligned on a professional beam setting machine, to take full advantage.
Mac.
 
So in furthering my (not too) mild obsession with increased efficiency from the car, I've been looking into improving the turbo design next.

Audrey is on 172,xxx miles and is on the original turbo. I think most in the know would agree, it's time to think about a precautionary replacement. The KKK turbo used on the A2 TDi90 is unique to the model and very scarce, so in line with my policy of collecting rare spares to keep the car going when I can, when a brand new genuine unit popped up on eBay 18 months ago I snapped it up and it's been sat on my shelf since.

Now the thought of modifying it before fitting was prompted when an advert popped up recently for a modified turbo. I must thank Tom @timmus for this post in his excellent TDI120 modified engine thread for laying out the dynamics of how a turbo works and what can be done - even if he was referring to the TDI75 turbo as a base.

Investigatory conversations with the specialist I spoke to (Adam at Pioneering Performance near Bournemouth), were fruitful:

This little 3 cylinder motor turbocharger is not actually all that well supported in the aftermarket as the A2 is the only vehicle which uses that VNT turbo - other VAG cars like the 4 pot big brothers share a plethora of parts between them so the market is much broader, whereas this ATL motor is the only 3 cylinder one to wear that turbo.

As a result of this, there actually aren't all the parts we need to rebuild it or do a billet compressor wheel upgrade available. In the past, we have machined in a bigger compressor wheel but the supplier doesn't make one as a "drop in" for this particular application unfortunately. That being said - we could commission one using the OEM original in your turbo to send off and have optimised: You'd have the first and only one in the world with a drop-in billet compressor wheel. (Drop in meaning OEM size but optimised for performance).

The real world result of this would mean your turbo being about as peppy as it could ever be - the billet compressor wheels are made to help increase spool wherever possible. It wont be a hybrid and it wont be a rocket ship - it would still have the same size inducer and exducer, but it would spool better. We could also rebuild your unit with a strengthened 360° thrust bearing along with the new compressor wheel and this should see you good for many '000s of miles of happy motoring.


If that isn't for you, then the only other option would be to make a hybrid where we install, with machining to the compressor housing, a larger than stock compressor wheel. This is what I have done before on this turbo, but be aware that this little 3 cylinder motor isn't the most responsive and larger than stock turbos can take away some of the drivability even with a fairly modest increase in compressor wheel size over stock. If you weren't looking to get a new custom map put on the car then this isn't the better option, the first one is.

Finally, the performance upgrade which I have seen done a few times is taking the 4 cylinder 150hp turbo, deleting the 4th cylinder from the manifold and blocking it up, and using that as a 3 cylinder. This would be an interesting project, not one Ive done before but something Id like to have a play with if you wanted to go down that route. (That one would probably be done when seeking a lot more performance)


Now, in terms of current state of tune, Audrey is rolling road tuned to 117 BHP and already fitted with Tom's all-alloy intercooler, so that, along with Paul @depronman's lower turbo pipe bracket, eliminates the other weak spots in the ATL boost system, from a reliability point of view.

As my aims are enhanced longevity, efficiency and usability, whilst the last two paragraphs look very interesting, I'm not looking for an increase in max power and torque because I don't want to further stress components such as the clutch assembly - and the car is pretty quick already! Therefore, in the spirit of trying to eliminate mass production trade-offs and getting the exisiting design as good as possible to achieve my aims, I'm going with his first suggested route.

So, as the cost isn't TOO outrageous (and I have some bits and bobs from my old BMW days in particular I can sell to raise the funds), the turbo is on it's way for a makeover - Scope is to strip, supply and install the uprated thrust kit, one-off billet compressor wheel, then balance the whole assembly, re-assemble and flow set back to the OEM flow settings. I will then have the manifold heat coated with Zircotec or similar ceramic coating (if possible, given the combined nature of the manifold and turbo), to help reduce heat soak into the intake charge (I can see from CDIS that when the engine is working hard the charge temperature rises fairly dramatically at the moment). I am thinking of purchasing a good used inlet manifold to have treated in the same way at the same time - just as Tom did.

If anyone has further suggestions on how to further optimise the turbo, I'm all ears and can ask PP.

I appreciate there could be an increased risk of stressing the DMF in particular at low RPMs with a turbo that now spools quicker and at lower RPM than standard, however I have trained myself to keep the revs above 1550-1600 RPM before applying much throttle in all gears beyond 1st (and applying it progressively, rather than ramming my foot to the floor) anyway, so I am willing to take the risk. The gains may be fairly marginal, but I'm interested in both seeing how far I can go to get this little car to the peak of what's possible without harming usability; and also improving the fuel consumption over shorter journeys. Currently Audrey can easily top 70mpg on long runs but struggles to achieve much over 50mpg on shorter ones around the Blackdown Hills, where I live - I wonder whether this will help.

I would appreciate any thoughts.

In other news - I've been getting the occasional front suspension clonk again, so as one of the few easier-to-change components left in my mission to permanently eliminate this is the ARB bushes, I've managed to snag a pair of new genuine VW ones for £15 posted which will go on in due course ahead of the winter. I've already checked the springs for cracks and they're fine, so I am hoping the top mounts or struts are not worn - everything else will have been replaced! That said, I did get a twang just now when turning the steering wheel with the car barely rolling....
Hi, interesting you mentioned the 150hp turbo mod, this is something I have done. Originally I had an issue where it went into limp home mode. I thought it may have been the VNT, so I went down the upgrade route. Ironically after it was changed it was the same it appears that it was a vacuum leak. However after a lot of support from Pete an A2OC member who supplied the turbo manifold and after he paid for a rolling road setup costing over £400 he sold me a copy of the map. The result puts a smile on your face pulling from 1800 and when you hit 3000 it is remarkable experience where the car leaps forward. This was in July 2023, and still going well.😊
 
So as you may be aware, this thread has a new entrant that I’ve just collected from North London and driven the 180 miles home to Axminster:

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It’s a 2002 AMF / TDI 75, it’s a basic model without climate control, although it’s the first A2 I’ve seen with OSS.

This car has actually featured on this forum recently, the owner popped up with an intro in the first flush of enthusiasm but then lost interest - I stepped in to save it from a very uncertain future and to bring it into the club (I will making it available through the market once a few items are attended to), so that it can live on as a fixer-upper.

Condition-wise, it’s a bit scruffy in places - there’s some lacquer peel and one or two bits are missing (under tray, fuse panel). You can see that once upon a time not too long ago, it was well-loved: The seats (platinum cloth in an otherwise soul black interior) are immaculate - I’d be amazed if they’re the originals. It has also just had £1400 spent on it on brakes and suspension work.

There are a few jobs I’ll attend to before passing it on - These are:

1) ABS and red brake warning - confirmed via a VCDS scan to be the front left wheel as suspected - the fact that I get both warnings suggested a wiring fault at that wheel. Massive shoutout to @steveb once again for allowing me to drop by at short notice for a scan!

2) The service flap won’t latch shut - despite there being nothing obviously wrong upon inspection - this was confirmed to be an issue with the flap itself when Steve swapped his bonnet onto this car and it latched first time.

3) The boot lid internal cover / is off - hopefully an easy fix

4) The oil is pretty black and it’s done 5000 miles since its last service, so as I have a supply of all-genuine consumables, I shall be carrying one out. I’ll check the condition of the cambelt at the same time as there’s no history with the car beyond the last 12 months or so.

5) The whole car needs a damned good valet, inside and out.

I’ll update here until the car is ready for sale.
 
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Regarding 1) I ending up splicing new wires to brake pad sesnor and abs sender all way from the engine inner wing. That was because the corrosion had travelled up the wires practically all way to each liner. May save yourself time cutting and checking by just getting new loom and doing same, then everything inside arch area is new wires.
 
@steveb that’s the previous owner’s pic - hopefully I can get it looking like that once again.

@CrispyEdd you read my mind - once I’ve confirmed it’s definitely the wiring i was going to replace with the Polo cable right through to the engine bay to set to save myself the hassle of chasing good wire.

Mini update: I started on the inside - the car has had a good hoovering inside and the interior is in good general condition - it’s really only the headlamp switch plus the driver’s window switch bank and fuel flap switches that need replacement - the carpet mats are generic but will do until the new owner decides if they want to replace with better carpet mats or perhaps rubber ones (I have to be very careful how far I go with this one and keep in mind the mission statement of keeping it as a fun project where some of the easy jobs that give a large, very satisfying improvement are preserved for that person!).

The driver’s mat was however unacceptably dirty, so a 10:1 TFR solution, a stiff brush and the wet vac were deployed - always amazes me what comes out of fabrics:


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EDIT - spent some more time today (Thursday) scrubbing the interior and also with the help of Mrs FK we managed to successfully refit the boot lid interior trim cover - definitely a two-person job that!

As a nice surprise, I found a set of @Proximo ’s jacking bungs in the boot so they’ll be fitted asap - probably tomorrow, as I need to remove the front left wheel to properly inspect the ABS and brake pad wear indicator wiring loom.
 
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Mini update: It has become apparent that the project has sticky front brakes - meaning it’s impossible to push the car.

It was laid up for some time until last year when it popped up on here two owners ago - since then the complete rear braking system was replaced, but the fronts weren’t touched; they did pass an MOT so were left alone.

As I’m looking at the front left axle anyway I’ve decided to bite the bullet and replace the front calipers. These have been ordered.

In other news, the ABS and brake pad wear warning loom for the front n/s wheel arrived today - this is a very affordable Golf item but it looks like it should fit nicely:

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Thanks to @CrispyEdd for the link!

I’ve also put the battery, which was low on charge, through a recondition and charge cycle using my CTEK charger and conditioner.

More to come!
 
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